Hey guys! I am looking into getting set of Volk TE37 SL for my FD. I have a few questions on guys that if any have run these wheels before and have experience them on the track! (1) What offset is good for a good concave look! (2) What is the best size for the biggest amount of tire I can go, say front 17.85 and rear 17.95 or can I even go wider without having to roll my fenders or upgrade to overflares. Again I want that good concave look but I dont want to sacrifice handling since I'd like to track the car with these "race proven" Volk TE37 SL. Any thoughts and experience is much appreciated, Thanks

 

You won't get any type of concave on the te37 unless you are at minimum, +35 offset and below. That doesn't give you a whole lot of options, especially in the 17" range, you can see all the available specs offered by rays here: RAYS WHEELS

 

I have run my FCs 17x8.5 +30 and 17x9.5 +40 TE37s on my FD with 255/275 NT01 and stock fenders no problems.

But! I would really go wider rim on the FD.

If I had to get 17" TE37 on my FD I would do the 17x9.5 +35 all around and run 255/275 (275 too tall for front).

18x9.5 +40 TE37 with 265/3518 all around is better yet.

Still this is kind of narrow and Volk does not offer wider monoblock rims with high enough offsets for the FD.

I went with 18x10.5 +38 Enkei PF01 with 265 all around because I couldn't find wider higher offset monoblocks without custom ordering them.

For custom order I would do 18x12 +45 with 285/30-18 all around, though you may have to run aftermarket rear trailing link and offset rear shock bushing to clear it. Its close. Thinking about Forgestar F14s despite their early quality problems.

 

This is all good input but does anyone have any pic of any TE37 on our FD RX7's? Please post your Volk Racing wheel setups! And your specs to go with em. Thanks all!

 

The previously mentioned 17x8.5 +30 w/ 255/40-17 and 17x9.5 +40 275/40-17 fitment from my FC.

 

Has anyone ever fit a 12 inch wide front wheel on an FD? My 18 x10 +50 inner lip rubbed a bit on my passenger lower control arm, most likely from a long sweeping turn on NJMP Lightning.

 

While we are on the TE37 subject.

Pure or Rich, you think a 18x8.5 +25 with 235/40 tires will fit in the front without problems? I had +32 at front before and didnt have any issues and the wheels im looking at right now would be +25 front and 9.5 +30 at back

 

My mistake guys I was referring to the TE 37 SL! So I was thinking of TE37 SL in 17 9.5 +28!

 

I don't think there are many TE37SL wheels that are going to work for you. but if I had to choose I would run a 18x9 + 45MM with 255/35/18 tires and a rolled front fender and a 18x9.5" +40MM in the rear with 255/35 or 265/35/18 tires.

You might be able to get away with a 18x9.5 +40MM front and rear with 255/35/18 tires on rolling the fronts only.

 

you can fit any of the choices in 17 with a proper roll and a few degrees of camber.

but just to be sure you might as well go 9+22 and 9.5+12 to be flush and concave.

I'm running 18x9.5+22 f/r no rubbing rear, had to roll the front flush. Though my tires are "stretched" at a 235/35 federal which is about the same as a 245/35. My friend's fd is running 9.5+29 and 10.5+29 minor roll no camber and unstretched just fine.

 

17 are the way to go

 

Here is my RPF1 it's 17-9 35 offset with 255/40R17 toyo R888

 

Closer look of the front! It is pretty tight but with -2.0 camber it's was ok. It touches the fender a bit on the passenger side but I will stiffen the suspension and add more camber and see.

 

I am running a 18x10 +38 front and rear (RPF1) with rolled fenders and 265/35/18 tires front and rear.

I was going to run 255/35/18 all around but the 265's had some wicked deals, cheaper than even 17" tires for RE-11 and XS tires. I get a little rubbing on some fender liner which I cut out and a little on the liner on the back of the wheel well. not enough to cause me any concern. Handling is pretty good. I am running -2 degrees front camber and -1.2 rear with a roll front and rear. The XS tread width is pretty wide compared to other tires.

 

Here are pics of mine. I currently selling her after we got a ZO6 with low low miles and a warranty.

 

here is a nice article with TE37 SL equipped FD...they are 18×9.5 in the front and 18×10.5 in the rear. Im not sure about the offset...im guessing +22

Link

 

18x9.5 +22 and 18x10.5 +22 with 225 40 18 and 255 35 18 Hankook V12 Evo tires

https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...build-1051569/

 

 

18x10 +40 front +30 rear with 255/40 with lots of room
going to 285/30 rear and 255/35 front real soon
Fenders are rolled flat
No camber
Concave front and rear.

 

I know its been a couple years on this already (a decade!) but im about to run these same specs - any advise asides from the above you posted?
18x10 +38 all around and 255/35 tires all around
Fenders hasnt been rolled or pulled

thank you!

 

18x10 +38 255/35-18 will fit with max front camber and a front fender lip roll.

but its nicer to have closer to stock +50 wheel offset to reduce bumpsteer and camber thrust resulting frim excessive scrub radius.

I am running the 18x11 +45 Volk TE37 Saga S Plus.

Fits same to fender as 18x10 +38.

 

[QUOTE=BLUE TII;12568302]18x10 +38 255/35-18 will fit with max front camber and a front fender lip roll.

but its nicer to have closer to stock +50 wheel offset to reduce bumpsteer and camber thrust resulting frim excessive scrub radius.

Had to look up the definition of scrub radius, but it explains what I’ve wondered about over the years in regards to tires that are moved further away from a car either in terms of a wider wheel and/or lower offset—and the effects on handling. I recently switched back to 18x9.5+45 all around vs.18x10+39 that I had on my car(FD) previously. Went from an “extreme summer” tire to ‘max summer tire” in the same size(255/35) and honestly the car feels better to drive on the street. When I say better, I mean it actually feels a little nimbler and less effort is needed for steering.

Do the factory 16x8+50 wheels provide a zero scrub radius? What sizes(s) do you recommend for street driven FD to be at, or near that compliance? I’m sure there are many other factors to consider, but as time has moved on, I’ve noticed less and less size choices for FD fitment.

 

The stock scrub radius of the FD is not documented.

For those reading along.
Scrub radius is the distance beteeen the center of the steering axis and the center of the tire's contact patch.

I actually doubt the FD's static scrub radius is zero because with the stock tall soft sidewall (225/50-16) the dynamic scrub radius is going to be important.

That is, the contact patch is squirming around under load.

It would be a good project to measure stock scrub radius and scrub radius with race negative camber.

 

There are some good visual representations of what the tire contact patch is doing in this BMW chassis test rig video.

 

Very interesting! Thanks for the reply’s!