I'm planning to order pillowballs, bushings, and rear differential mounts to refresh the rear suspension on my 1994 RX7. Are there any nuts or bolts or other things that should be replaced while I'm in there? There were just a few parts noted as 'replace' when I looked through the factory service manual, the retaining rings and rubber seals for the pillowballs.

If it makes a difference, the car is mostly stock, about 99000 miles, stock wheels with old Hankook RS3 tires (probably replacing with Falken RT660 soon), all the suspension parts are stock and nearly 30 years old. It's primarily a street car, usualy sees a couple autocrosses per year and maybe an occasional HPDE lapping day.

Parts list so far:
F128-28-890, 2 qty, rear differential mount (competition, stiffer than OE). I've read that aftermarket mounts would add noise/vibration/harshness, and I think the stock setup is plenty harsh already.
FD01-28-8C0A, 4 qty, rear upper arm inner bushing.
FD01-28-710A, 2 qty, rear upper arm outer bushing
B001-39-037B, 2 qty, nut for rear upper arm outer bushing
FD15-28-460, 2 qty, rear lower arm bushing
FD01-28-461, 2 qty, rubber stopper for rear lower arm bushing
FD01-26-230, 2 qty, pillow ball for rear toe link
F128-28-42Y, 2 qty, bushing for rear toe link (competition, stiffer than OE)
F128-28-52Y, 2 qty, bushing for rear trailing arm (competition, stiffer than OE)
(J-auto), 6 qty, replacement rear pillowballs (may be better quality than OE?)
FD01-26-250, 12 qty, dust seals for rear pillowballs
9957-43-800, 6 qty, retaining rings for pillowballs


Thanks in advance.

 

certainly be picky about condition, and then you might consider replacing the adjusting bolts, the other Mazda cars have trouble with those.
it either moves around when you have sticky tires, or if you get it tight enough not to move, then they stretch/fatigue out.

 

I recently noticed that my rear camber bolts are so tight I couldn't get them off with an impact wrench, but they would still move quite easily if I applied any torque with a wrench.
I might get some of those locking washers... https://jp3motorsports.com/products/...4742b74f&_ss=r

Or maybe I'll have them use Loctite on the back of the washers next time I get an alignment.

 

yeah since you have a track car, you should replace those bolts or use the locking deals. the alignment moving is bad for lap times....

 

Good idea, I'll watch for those rear camber bolts.

 

I don't think they were actually moving, though? The marks still seem to line up.
Though I have a weird popping/clanking noise from the rear of the car in hard turns.
I had always assumed it was just the pillowballs being worn out (I cheaped out years ago and only replaced the two that actually had visible play).
I really need to get under the car again and check that everything is tight...

 

^Regarding alignment fasteners, the issue is more that the 'washers' wear out then the alignment cam bolt or nut wears out.
The 'hole' or 'tabs' in the washers get enlarged. Here's an example from my Miata: https://mazdaracers.com/topic/5167-c...hers-worn-out/
The D shaped washers wear a bit differently and become more round instead of a hard edged D shape.
My experience actually lead to the development of those locking washers by JP

The threads on the nut and alignment cam also do stretch over time but wear in the washers is noticed first as the alignment varying a bit and play when turning the cams when trying to align. Symptoms for stretch in the threads of the bolt and nut are when the alignment fasteners don't clamp tightly and loosen up.

As for replacement of other hardware used in the suspension, that is up to you. I probably would not bother on a street driven car unless the bolt is rusted out or exhibits symptoms of not clamping properly. On a competition car running big rubber or used heavily on track or autox, maybe but I have not seen evidence of that need but I defer to more hard core track nuts like Fritz, Peter Hahn or Valkyrie and others.

 

Let me be the first to say, I don’t know **** about ****! Hehehe…

 

I think a lot of the fastener angst would be caused by the usual tyre *** alignment joint's favourite tool, a rattle gun....probably set up for a truck or buses!

For peace of mind, the use of this on the nut and on the subframe/cam wheel gives an immediate indication of trouble.

If it's not suspension related, the exhaust is not moving into contact with other components in G and the ppf is good, the fuel tank might be worth a check. Assuming yours's is stock, the sump or the baffle up top may be worth a check....have been known to break out and cause head scratching mystery noises.