these are mr gasket 11mm spacers, and the studs are ARP extended studs. the lug nuts turn 7 times till it stops, then i have to tighten them. I know i would need hubcentric rings, but im wondering if this is enough to be safe, i plan to autocross it too. Or would i need longer studs for the front, if ARP makes any longer ones.

 

Not enough thread engagement. Get longer studs.

Personally I would never use any spacer that is not hubcentric but many will disagree with me. The purpose of the lip on a hub that engages into the back of the wheel ("hubcentric") is so that lip can support the weight of the vehicle. With a flat spacer you're not hubcentric and are forcing the studs to support the weight of the vehicle. I don't like that.

 

Agree 100%

 

wouldn't longer hubcentric rings fix that? And i don't think ARP make any longer studs for our cars. I might just get an hubcentric adaptor with studs already on them for the fronts.

 

What was the part number and how much were those ARP studs you have on your FD? I need to get some in the near future.

I agree with DamonB.

 

my car's an FC, i broght those studs from summit racing, part number is ARP-100-7708.

Any one know if longer hubcentric rings would help?

 

If the spacer were hubcentric and also had the proper diameter lip to engage the back of the wheel ("wheelcentric") then you'd be fine assuming your total wheel offset is still in the ballpark.

 

yea, but i thought it be almost the same to have a nonhubcentric spacer, but with a longer hubcentric ring that fit correctly into the rim and the hub, wouldn't that be the same?

 

Check the autocross rule book - I think you're breaking some rules doing that?
It's either...1/4" max spacer, or the 10mm is too much of an offset from stock...


-Ted

 

I would not recommend using the spacer. Damon is correct in the fact that the wheel needs to be hubcentric and this spacer plainly isn't. Unless the mounting flange is part of the spacer (not a separate adapter) the wheel will still flex and move on the studs. The wheels studs are designed and rated to apply clamping force to hold the wheels against the hub, not to support the weight of the vehicle. you also have to take into account that by using pushing the mounting point of the spindle hub further out you are also changing the weight aspects on the axle. I have seen to many people use spacers that have ended up causing a wheel or hub to come off the vehicle.

 

SpeedSource has studs that are long enough. Most of the others (ARP, Moroso, etc, will require you to drill the hubs--yuck.

 

i know this thread is outdated and im probably reviving some ooooollllldddddd topic....

but ARP-100-7713


specs look like it will work... why not give it a shot... its 1 inch longer than ARP-100-7708

knurl diameter and length is same, only under head length is longer (which is extended studs...)