Powerflex vs. Superpro
When I purchased my car the previous owner advertised it as having delrin bushings. The cars suspension squeeks like mad and I haven't had time to take it apart yet to lubricate it. My question is, should I stick with the delrin pieces or would a poly kit last longer between being lubed. I imagine it would be no different with either since the grease is whats preventing the squeeks? Just wondering what yours guys input is, so I don't lube all them bushings just to have to take them out again and switch to poly.
im not 100% sure but i heard that the delrin bushings a a bit harder than super pro. could be that it only needs to be lubed.. im not sure on which would last longer, i mean if they are fine and the ride is fine(besides squeaks) for you just relube and save your money for something else needed
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When I purchased my car the previous owner advertised it as having delrin bushings. The cars suspension squeeks like mad and I haven't had time to take it apart yet to lubricate it. My question is, should I stick with the delrin pieces or would a poly kit last longer between being lubed.
I don't mind the ride in my car and the handling is pretty good where its at too. I don't really want to switch out all my bushings if all I need to do is grease the delrin ones. I don't see how the delrin ones will squeek before the poly ones will if its just the grease thats preventing it. If the poly ones do take longer before they squeek I'll probably change them out with the superpro poly ones.
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I'm no materials expert but polyurethane is softer and has some minor degree of self-lubricating properties, delrin or nylon is very stiff and any lack of lubrication is going to result in immediate squeaks (unless you have self lubricating nylon, which is pricey)
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...9&postcount=23
I've had polyurethane bushings on my rear sway bars for at least 30k miles now (no squeaks). I recently took them apart for inspection and the old wheel bearing grease was dirty but the bushings still look new.
Also, from the Powerflex website
http://www.powerflexusa.com/technical_faq.php
This may apply to Delrin as well
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...9&postcount=23
I've had polyurethane bushings on my rear sway bars for at least 30k miles now (no squeaks). I recently took them apart for inspection and the old wheel bearing grease was dirty but the bushings still look new.
Also, from the Powerflex website
http://www.powerflexusa.com/technical_faq.php
Why not Nylon bushings?
Nylon is probably the worst of all worlds. When a suspension arm moves up and down it does not move only up and down but describes an arc. This means that, for example an inner track control arm bush will be required to flex in two dimensions at the same time. In this example a metal bush will allow this movement as will a rubber or POWERFLEX bushing. However a nylon bushing will allow up and down movement but 100% of the arc loadings will be transferred into the arm and the chassis. This causes arm flexing and can easily cause premature arm failure! Of course nylon has no vibration absorbing characteristics at all, so all vibration is transferred up the already highly stressed arm
Nylon is probably the worst of all worlds. When a suspension arm moves up and down it does not move only up and down but describes an arc. This means that, for example an inner track control arm bush will be required to flex in two dimensions at the same time. In this example a metal bush will allow this movement as will a rubber or POWERFLEX bushing. However a nylon bushing will allow up and down movement but 100% of the arc loadings will be transferred into the arm and the chassis. This causes arm flexing and can easily cause premature arm failure! Of course nylon has no vibration absorbing characteristics at all, so all vibration is transferred up the already highly stressed arm
Last edited by yzf-r1; Mar 18, 2011 at 02:41 PM.
Just want to let you all know that I'm a Powerflex vendor and can take care of you guys should you need any bushings or extra packets of Powerflex grease. My name is Juan and I've been on this forum for 12 years (before the forum was hacked). I've got a small shop called J-Auto where I mainly work on RX-7's located in Pomona, CA (5 mins from Cal Poly Pomona). If you need feedback, you can go into the West regional section and ask about me. I deal directly with Powerflex themselves and can answer questions or help with any problems you may have with this product as I use these bushings on my own cars and install them on customer's FDs 
Thanks!
Thanks!
I think that a good prospective kit could consist of: A full kit with the Shock Mount Bushings (not sure of kit number containing shock mount) and non-eccentric UCA crush tubes (being that some seem to be leery about installing these), minus the Toe Link and Trailing Arm bushings (due to the fact that some plan to, during this install, or have already upgraded to units with chromoly heim joints).
i.e.:
1. Diff.............................................. ...2
2. Shock Mounts...................................2
3. Rear Upper Arms (non-eccentric).....…4
4. Front Arms.......................................8
5. Steering Rack...................................2
i.e.:
1. Diff.............................................. ...2
2. Shock Mounts...................................2
3. Rear Upper Arms (non-eccentric).....…4
4. Front Arms.......................................8
5. Steering Rack...................................2
I think that a good prospective kit could consist of: A full kit with the Shock Mount Bushings (not sure of kit number containing shock mount) and non-eccentric UCA crush tubes (being that some seem to be leery about installing these), minus the Toe Link and Trailing Arm bushings (due to the fact that some plan to, during this install, or have already upgraded to units with chromoly heim joints).
i.e.:
1. Diff.............................................. ...2
2. Shock Mounts...................................2
3. Rear Upper Arms (non-eccentric).....…4
4. Front Arms.......................................8
5. Steering Rack...................................2
i.e.:
1. Diff.............................................. ...2
2. Shock Mounts...................................2
3. Rear Upper Arms (non-eccentric).....…4
4. Front Arms.......................................8
5. Steering Rack...................................2
A complete kit doesn't work for everyone all the time. I understand that some of us are running upgraded sway bars, toe links & trailing arms and having to buy a complete kit is a waste of money. You'd be paying over $250 for these bushings that you dont need!
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I can definitely put together a kit like that. The only item your example is missing is the rear lower control arm. Not sure if you left it out on purpose or not.
A complete kit doesn't work for everyone all the time. I understand that some of us are running upgraded sway bars, toe links & trailing arms and having to buy a complete kit is a waste of money. You'd be paying over $250 for these bushings that you dont need!
A complete kit doesn't work for everyone all the time. I understand that some of us are running upgraded sway bars, toe links & trailing arms and having to buy a complete kit is a waste of money. You'd be paying over $250 for these bushings that you dont need!

Does anyone have information on shore hardness of the different bushings available (both OEM and aftermarket), so we can make some kind of comparative judgment on “harshness”?
Is there a more logical way to quantify the harshness of a polyurethane bushing over a OEM rubber bushing?
I am sure it has been answered before, but which are the bushings (other than the spherical of course) that are usually the most susceptible to wear?
Is there a rundown of which bushings typically fail first and a progressive list of which bushings follow it in chronological order?
Anyone have a tutorial on how to check bushings properly? I always read “just shake it, you will know” but I am sure there are points where this just wont be true?
What are the proper inspection methods to relieve suspension stress, causing a jamming and/or locked joint that can mask a worn component?
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The metal (pillowball) bushings are the first to go, of course. After that, I've heard various theories regarding which bushings see the most wear, but with an 18 year old car that has been driven hard, you can bet they're all going to have significant wear unless the car is exceptionally low mileage, and even then, the rubber simply deteriorates (which is why I hate rubber bushings). By the time you're in there pulling the control arms apart, you may as well do the whole job and be done with it....
What I have not seen is a direct comparison in durometer between Superpro and standard Powerflex bushings (Powerflex reportedly offers three different hardnesses).
What I have not seen is a direct comparison in durometer between Superpro and standard Powerflex bushings (Powerflex reportedly offers three different hardnesses).
I think the following may work for the majority of us. What do you guys think about the following kits?
Kit #1 - Full kit: Includes every bushing available for the FD.
Kit #2 - Full kit without toe links and trailing arms.
Kit #3 - Diff mount, Front and Rear control arm bushings: Does not include PS Rack, Sway bars, toe links or trailing arm bushings.
Kit #4 - Trailing arms and Toe Links
Like always, Individual bushings* and extra grease packets will be available.
*Note: When I say individual bushings, I'm referring to part numbers. Not to be taken literally as 1 individual bushing and/or crush tube.
Kit #1 - Full kit: Includes every bushing available for the FD.
Kit #2 - Full kit without toe links and trailing arms.
Kit #3 - Diff mount, Front and Rear control arm bushings: Does not include PS Rack, Sway bars, toe links or trailing arm bushings.
Kit #4 - Trailing arms and Toe Links
Like always, Individual bushings* and extra grease packets will be available.
*Note: When I say individual bushings, I'm referring to part numbers. Not to be taken literally as 1 individual bushing and/or crush tube.
Here's some pricing for you guys. Prices are all plus shipping and plus tax if you're in California. Payment can be made through Paypal or cash if you're local.
Kit #1 - Full kit. Includes every bushing available for the FD. $720.78
Kit #2 - Full kit without toe links and trailing arms. $573.21
Kit #3 - Diff mount, Front and Rear control arm bushings: Does not include PS Rack, Sway bars, toe links or trailing arm bushings. $459.84
Kit #4 - Trailing arms and Toe Links. $147.57
Extra grease packets are also available for $2.00 a piece. Each packet will lube 2 large bushings or 4 small ones. Individual bushings* are also available on request.
Installation is available for locals and those who wish to mail me their suspension pieces.
*Note: When I say individual bushings, I'm referring to part numbers. Not to be taken literally as 1 individual bushing and/or crush tube.
Kit #1 - Full kit. Includes every bushing available for the FD. $720.78
Kit #2 - Full kit without toe links and trailing arms. $573.21
Kit #3 - Diff mount, Front and Rear control arm bushings: Does not include PS Rack, Sway bars, toe links or trailing arm bushings. $459.84
Kit #4 - Trailing arms and Toe Links. $147.57
Extra grease packets are also available for $2.00 a piece. Each packet will lube 2 large bushings or 4 small ones. Individual bushings* are also available on request.
Installation is available for locals and those who wish to mail me their suspension pieces.
*Note: When I say individual bushings, I'm referring to part numbers. Not to be taken literally as 1 individual bushing and/or crush tube.
I'm trying to find upgraded replacement bushings for the sway bar and steering column mounts, any help? I found the part numbers for the SuperPros on Tein's website and e-mailed them but they're out of stock with a 4-8 week lead time. They also asked me if I wanted a 28mm or 28.7mm bushing for the swaybar.. I'm using the stock bar, which one would I need?






