The Official FC Wheel Fitment Thread
#1151
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Originally Posted by darksider
sorry i subtracted 1/4 of an inch instead of adding it. it would clear no problem? will it stick in or out too much in the front and rear? will it clear the brakes? thanks reted.
You might have to roll the fender slightly.
With the 1.25" spacers, it's just about perfect.
Clearance will ultimately depend on what size tires you slap on those rims.
-Ted
#1152
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Originally Posted by darksider
sorry for all the noob questions, but i really need to know asap. im asking if it sticks in and out too much because i can also get the spacers custom made with custom width instead of 1.25" all the way around. what offset should i be looking for when using 8.5 in the front and 9.5 in the rear.
also, whats the SMALLEST/cheapest tires i can get for 8.5 and 9.5? it doesnt have to be legal, i just need to get rolling. i hear you can stretch tires? does that mean i can use 16" tires on 17"rims, or does it mean i can use 8.5 wide tires on 9.5 rims? this is for a n/a FC so i dont really need wide tires. thanks and sorry again for beign a noob.
With the 8.5" width up front, typically you put on a 245 or 255 wide tire on such rim widths.
If we're talking about "stretch" or hipari, then you go narrower, like 235, 225 or even down to a 215 wide tire.
With a 17" x 8.5", with stretch, you can go with a 225 / 45 / 17 or a 235 / 40 / 17.
With the 17" x 9.5", go with a 255 / 40 / 17.
I'm warning you that if you get cheap with tires, it might bite you in the *** later on.
I used to go with cheap tires, but you really hinder performance.
With that said, if you're looking for CHEAP, check out the Kumho 711's.
They should be under $100 each for those sizes.
-Ted
#1153
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Originally Posted by yayo420
I bought some TSW rims for my TII they are 18x8 w/ a 235 40 18 tire...they have a 35mm offset...are they going to fit???
It should rub on the insides.
A thin spacer should work to clear everything inside.
-Ted
#1154
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i just got 16x8 BBS (or replica) that came from an FD and i want to put 225/45/16 up front and 245/45/16 in the rear, i figured the offset to be +50 based on a formula i found in another thread, would i need spacers on both front and back or just the fronts? and what size? there's some 25mm ones for sale that i might pick up if they'll work, thanks
#1155
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Originally Posted by Kingsfan
i just got 16x8 BBS (or replica) that came from an FD and i want to put 225/45/16 up front and 245/45/16 in the rear, i figured the offset to be +50 based on a formula i found in another thread, would i need spacers on both front and back or just the fronts? and what size? there's some 25mm ones for sale that i might pick up if they'll work, thanks
You can use the wheels as-is in rear, but they will be tucked in...if you don't mind that look.
-Ted
#1156
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Have any of you checked to see what kind of lateral G's your pulling on those huge tires? I've seen too much tire on RX7s before that actually decrease cornering performance. You guys going to 18" wheels and larger shoudl make sure to specify that you're doing it for looks, not better performance.
While these wheels are ugly, I bought them for their offset and size to optimize the handling and balance of the car. Almost 1.2 G laterally, in fact, with quick, easy transitions left to right with manual steering. 15X7 with +25mm offset, and 225/50-15 Yokohama A008 RSIIs. This was on an '86 Sport model that was faster on the autocross track than most more 'trick" RX7s.
I didn't want that wheel style, but really all I was concerned with at the time was price and performance: "function first." At the time ('92) all the cool Japanese wheels we can get now either didn't exist, or were nearly impossible to come by. But a similar size/offset, 5 spoke, light, modern wheel would be perfect for function.
While these wheels are ugly, I bought them for their offset and size to optimize the handling and balance of the car. Almost 1.2 G laterally, in fact, with quick, easy transitions left to right with manual steering. 15X7 with +25mm offset, and 225/50-15 Yokohama A008 RSIIs. This was on an '86 Sport model that was faster on the autocross track than most more 'trick" RX7s.
I didn't want that wheel style, but really all I was concerned with at the time was price and performance: "function first." At the time ('92) all the cool Japanese wheels we can get now either didn't exist, or were nearly impossible to come by. But a similar size/offset, 5 spoke, light, modern wheel would be perfect for function.
#1157
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Originally Posted by RETed
I like a 225 / 50 / 16 on a 16" x 8.0", but if you want something a little wider...
245 / 45 / 16 will fit; up front it is just too tight to run though.
If you run a 8.0", +30 both front and rear, you get the advantage to rotate them front-to-back no problem.
-Ted
245 / 45 / 16 will fit; up front it is just too tight to run though.
If you run a 8.0", +30 both front and rear, you get the advantage to rotate them front-to-back no problem.
-Ted
Positive notes---more tire means more traction
Negative notes---more tire means more traction, it seems those 245s in front causes the brake bias to get all out of whack. There is soo much more front grip, compared to the original design, the nose dives much more and the rear of the car unloads to the point that the rear tires lock up long before the fronts. THIS IS BAD. I run 225/50 all around now
#1158
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Originally Posted by RETed
If this is the case, then just the fronts for clearance.
You can use the wheels as-is in rear, but they will be tucked in...if you don't mind that look.
-Ted
You can use the wheels as-is in rear, but they will be tucked in...if you don't mind that look.
-Ted
#1159
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Originally Posted by Merc63
Have any of you checked to see what kind of lateral G's your pulling on those huge tires?
I don't care for steady-state G's, as this doesn't help with transition grip.
-Ted
#1160
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Originally Posted by Kingsfan
thanks ted, so they will still look tucked in even with 245s in the rear?
According to my experience, the rears would still tuck in at least 1" to 1.5" versus the fronts.
-Ted
#1161
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Originally Posted by RETed
Are you talking steady-state G's or numbers of a G-Analyst?
I don't care for steady-state G's, as this doesn't help with transition grip.
-Ted
I don't care for steady-state G's, as this doesn't help with transition grip.
-Ted
The problem I've seen with tires that are too large (and I notice your recommendations are pretty close to what I was running, at 225/50s) is that steering effort goes up and the breakaway characteristics get worse making finding and holding the limit or just past it much harder, often causing the driver to scrub off more speed than they need to. And especially with the IRS cars, too large a tire can cause tire hop from both engine and lateral accellerative forces, which you then have to compensate for in other ways.
#1162
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Am I correct in thinking that a 17x7 (+50 offset) wheel will come out 3mm closer to the fender and stick in 23mm closer to the center of the car? I think it's right, but my questions are:
1) what is the correct spacer in order to get the wheels flush with the fender (or just inside of flush)?
2) is there enough space between the inside of the wheels and the strut to clear without the spacer for a while?
Thanks in advance for the help offset gurus!
1) what is the correct spacer in order to get the wheels flush with the fender (or just inside of flush)?
2) is there enough space between the inside of the wheels and the strut to clear without the spacer for a while?
Thanks in advance for the help offset gurus!
#1164
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Originally Posted by Merc63
True, and a quick spike in Gs doesn't translate into what happens after it loses that grip. You can spike to pretty high Gs on a transition, but anything longer than an instantaneous corner can find yourself spinning into the tire wall...
Spiking the G-sensor is not uncommon, and those numbers are practically unusable.
transition grip gets you through turn1 at SIR. Steady state is what gets you through turn 2. transition gets you through slaloms, steady state gets you though sweepers and turnarounds. becasu you can spike higher than normal in transitions, maximizing steady state can increase transitions quite a bit.
The problem I've seen with tires that are too large (and I notice your recommendations are pretty close to what I was running, at 225/50s) is that steering effort goes up and the breakaway characteristics get worse making finding and holding the limit or just past it much harder, often causing the driver to scrub off more speed than they need to. And especially with the IRS cars, too large a tire can cause tire hop from both engine and lateral accellerative forces, which you then have to compensate for in other ways.
Because you cannot (usually) change the inside clearances, you're stuck with that dimension.
To go wider, you just adjust offset.
What this does is causes funky loading on the hubs versus the stock set-up.
Mazda had concluding with a lot of R&D that keeping the offset high so the wheel centers are pushed all the way out - this allows cornering loads on the tires to run almost vertically into the hub.
Once you start to run really wide set-up's, these forces change diagonally.
This causes premature hub failures, and lots of race FC's with wide wheels kill the stock hubs really quick!
-Ted
#1165
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Originally Posted by GoCarFC3S
Am I correct in thinking that a 17x7 (+50 offset) wheel will come out 3mm closer to the fender and stick in 23mm closer to the center of the car? I think it's right, but my questions are:
Unless you've already got these things, I'd pass on the sale.
1) what is the correct spacer in order to get the wheels flush with the fender (or just inside of flush)?
Minimum 10mm spacer...
2) is there enough space between the inside of the wheels and the strut to clear without the spacer for a while?
-Ted
#1166
18" SSR D5R 5x114 8.5(front) 9.5(rear)
khumo 712 225/40/18(front) 255/35/18(rear)
theys are very new with 90-95% tread left. only one scratch on one wheel. theys wheels are 2 piece forged.
Hey, im pretty new, and just wondering if I can get a quick answer for this before they go away lol
Thanks, its for a 10AE
khumo 712 225/40/18(front) 255/35/18(rear)
theys are very new with 90-95% tread left. only one scratch on one wheel. theys wheels are 2 piece forged.
Hey, im pretty new, and just wondering if I can get a quick answer for this before they go away lol
Thanks, its for a 10AE
#1169
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Originally Posted by cdnmmaguy
Sorry, im unsure of them, but theyre coming off an S2000...
The S2000 runs damn high offsets, so there is no way it'll fit up front.
IIRC, the stock S2K fronts are either 7.0" or 7.5", but the offset is really high like +50 or as high as +60!
-Ted
#1170
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I've just gotten new wheels for the car and they ended up being 17X7.5 42mm. Can I run these with 1/2 inch spacers if I'm autocrossing the car? I trusted that tirerack's wheel fitment guide would have actually worked on an FC. That was foolish. Anyway, I'm getting Falken RT 615's in 225/ 45 and I'd like to stick with these wheels if possible. Please Ted a little help for the terminally stupid would be greatly appreciated.
#1173
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Originally Posted by clubber
I've just gotten new wheels for the car and they ended up being 17X7.5 42mm. Can I run these with 1/2 inch spacers if I'm autocrossing the car? I trusted that tirerack's wheel fitment guide would have actually worked on an FC. That was foolish. Anyway, I'm getting Falken RT 615's in 225/ 45 and I'd like to stick with these wheels if possible. Please Ted a little help for the terminally stupid would be greatly appreciated.
With the 1/2" spacer, that adds about 12mm.
So, you effectively end up with a 7.5" with an effective offset of about +25.
The 225 / 45 / 17 tire is going to get mightly close to the fender lip.
Be prepared to roll the fender lip a little just to get the clearance right.
Good luck!
-Ted
#1175
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Originally Posted by RETed
7.5" at around +35 is minimum.
With the 1/2" spacer, that adds about 12mm.
So, you effectively end up with a 7.5" with an effective offset of about +25.
The 225 / 45 / 17 tire is going to get mightly close to the fender lip.
Be prepared to roll the fender lip a little just to get the clearance right.
Good luck!
-Ted
With the 1/2" spacer, that adds about 12mm.
So, you effectively end up with a 7.5" with an effective offset of about +25.
The 225 / 45 / 17 tire is going to get mightly close to the fender lip.
Be prepared to roll the fender lip a little just to get the clearance right.
Good luck!
-Ted