would 215/40/17 + 35 17x8.25 up front and 17x9 in the rear fit all around? lowered on coilovers.

 

uh... better for someone else to chime in... but with those specs, give yourself MUCH more tire. I dont know how low your wanting to go, but read above from what I said: Tire just starts to tuck with a 18x8+35 in the front with a 35/245 tire.

 

im gonna be pretty low, but i also dont want to get to much tire because i am stock na and dont want to ruin my clutch more than i can from clutch kicking and itll be a lot harder to spin with big tires. im saying maybe 225/45 would be the biggest id like to go unless you think i can spin anything bigger with stock na with only wleded diff and coilovers.

 

Sometimes my 265 rears kick out TOO easily in the rain (Possibly due to my 0 camber setup. Shop didn't listen when I asked for -1.5/-2.0 camber). Can also get them to break loose in the dry if I enter just right. Car is underpowered so I never spin out, I just hold a constant slide and lose lots of speed. I'm not into drifting so I never do "clutch kicks", but I do still have "drifting" fun with my NA. Dont be afraid and enter with more speed!
Try out different setups, its your car. I would never give up my 245/265 setup.

 

Haha well if the bigger tires would be better I guess ill just have to enter with more speed. You think 225 in the back and maybe 215 in the front or go a little bigger?

 

I like tire, so I would say try 225/235 even. A 215 tire? I think I used to run those on my stock miata...

Try out your skinny setup and see how it goes... at least if you slam it, you wont have to worry much about fenders rubbing.

 

Lol ill try out the bigger tire if people are saying that's better ill trust yous.

 

figured this would be the place to ask. For a max traction setup whats the highest offset/width you guys think i could go with. I am thinking 18x10 +35 285 30 18. Fc on coilovers. I want it to be meaty yet still be close to flush. Anyone go with such width/high offset? Also what about the fronts. How high of an offset can i go with on a 9.5 wheels in the front before it hits the coils?

 

So... I've read about the first twenty pages, and bits of others in between there and here... But needless to say, I didn't come across exactly what I was looking for.

Was hoping I could maybe get some responses from people whom may have ran this exact set up before, or something similar. I'm going to be going to 17x7 et.42 Kosei K1's (as seen on TireRack), and using 225/45-17 Pilot Super Sports... Now, I'm fairly certain I'm going to have to drop the offset by about 5mm to an et.37. Aside from that, should I be okay on my inner clearance? I've got my car very modestly dropped only about .8" or so on KYB AGX's and Eibach's.

I'm not sure if I'm beating a dead horse thread here, but if someone is feeling ambitious or adventurous enough to get to my post here, and let me know what they've experienced, that'd be fantastic. Thanks in advance people.

 

You should be fine only when you have the 5mm spacer for the front, could even go 10mm for better clearance with the inner suspension.

Here is a well put chart for rims recommendation and offset: FC3S Pro v2.0: Mods - Rims

 

figured this would be the place to ask. For a max traction setup whats the highest offset/width you guys think i could go with. I am thinking 18x10 +35 285 30 18. Fc on coilovers. I want it to be meaty yet still be close to flush. Anyone go with such width/high offset? Also what about the fronts. How high of an offset can i go with on a 9.5 wheels in the front before it hits the coils?

How much work on the fenders/suspension are you up for?

In the front with a roll and slight pull of the fenders as well as possibly slotting the upper spindle to strut hole so you can pull the strut away from the wheel and dial your negative camber back in at the top mount

18x9.5 +20 with 255/35-18.

In the rear with a roll or just negative camber-

18x10 +30 with 265/35-18

If you want to run the 285 out back, I would suggest more wheel width.

In the rear with a roll&pull or roll and negative camber-

18x10.5 +25 with 285/30-18

Personally with 18s on stock(ish) body and some suspension fiddling I would run-
18x9.5 +20 255/35-18 front
18x10.5 +30 265/35-18 rear (or 275/35-18 if I was trying to put down V8 torque)

-disclaimer- I have never run 18s on my FC, these measurements extrapolations from my 17x8.5 +30 255/40-17 front and 19x9.5 +40 275/40 rear set up-

 

See, I did check that out... but wasn't sure how the 225/45-17 Pilot Sports would factor in. So... One more question, if I may, I was always under the impression that going over a 5mm spacer was a bit... Let's say, not recommended? Am I wrong in thinking that, or can our hubs/studs do that okay? Thanks again

 

For maximum traction you want as wide a wheel and as low an offset as possible that still fits inside the fenders.

You can always pull the fenders out a little bit if it doesn't quite fit.

High offset means less track width, which means more weight transfer which means less grip.

 

Depends on what brand of spacers you are getting, I've heard/read many different opinions about this.

H&R and Ichiba spacers all come with extended wheel studs to ensure proper fitment. If you use these, personally I see no issue with running 5 or 10mm spacers, but anything above that would pose a possibility of problem.

 

For maximum traction you want as wide a wheel and as low an offset as possible that still fits inside the fenders.

You can always pull the fenders out a little bit if it doesn't quite fit.

High offset means less track width, which means more weight transfer which means less grip.

Well... not really. You set your camber so your outside wheels will be perpendicular to the road under the load of a turn for best contact patch. The inside tires contact patch is doing about as much as a T-Rex's arms because it is all cambered the wrong way and barely any weight on it.

So drivers run up on the curbing and bounce the inside wheels into the air to transfer more weight to the outside tires optimized contact patch.

The narrow track will help transfer more weight to the outside tires in much the same way.

You do reach a limit though where if you don't have enough track the car angle will exceed the camber dialed into the outside tires or flip over, but usually this is only a problem when crazy Europeans go with wide race tires on their superbike powered '50s-60s microcars; which, is great fun to watch on youtube.

 

Because of their strut front ends requiring tons of negative camber you can see the V-8 Super Cars using the curbing constantly to get the weight transfer to the outside front tire with its superior contact patch.

 

The lower and wider a car is, the more work the inside tire will do because there is less weight transfer.

An individual tire works best when pressed 90 degrees but the total grip is reduced when weight is transferred.

Transferring weight as a driving technique is a different matter than adjusting the car to not transfer as much weight.

So basically, wider is always better and the only reason not to go wide is the rules and weight.

 

So i've got on the way 17x8+20 offset front and 17x9+20 offset TSW Max and tires are yokahoma s-drives 215/40 and 235/40 and i have coilovers on the way, any thoughts?

91 JDM Turbo

 

The tires are a little small for the wheel widths. A turbo could easily make use of 255 (rear) and 225 or 235 (front).

 

I am going for a little stretch, do you think I will be ok with just rolling my fenders or will I have to do more modification?

 

Having to pull the fenders isn't the end of the world even if it is a little too tight.

 

It should

 

Be just

 

Fender rolling

 

Hi. I'm a real newbie to wheel fitment, but hope you guys can answer if the following will fit an all standard RX 7 FC from 89, 5 lug with original coilovers and NO rolled fenders or lip:

Front: 8,5 x 17" ET 13, with 245/40-17
Rear: 8,5 x 17" ET 13, with 265/40-17

If this combination of rims and tires will not work, but the rims would work, what size tires am i looking for then?

Thx!