The Official FC Wheel Fitment Thread
^^^ My XXR wheels in the front are 17x8 +35 with a 215/40/17 Federal tire. I use 25mm spacers making them a +10 fitment and they have room to spare. I'm running about -3* of camber in front.
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,564
Likes: 26
From: Cincinnati, OH
I need help with the offsets for 17x9.5 front and rear with a slight poke. The car is on stock fenders and rears. I will probably run a 205 tire all around, so poking out would be great. Thanks!!
I tried putting on my wheels and coilovers yesterday.
These are SSR 18x8,5J (although I suspect these being 9", I'll measure it up soon), ET35 wheels, with tein ha coilovers., 245/40/18 tires.
To mount these I needed to remove the coilover helper springs, and use a 2mm spacer. I'm going to change the front tires to 225/40/18 so that I can remove the spacers. The wheels stick out a tiny bit now, should be flush with the stock body without the spacers.


These are SSR 18x8,5J (although I suspect these being 9", I'll measure it up soon), ET35 wheels, with tein ha coilovers., 245/40/18 tires.
To mount these I needed to remove the coilover helper springs, and use a 2mm spacer. I'm going to change the front tires to 225/40/18 so that I can remove the spacers. The wheels stick out a tiny bit now, should be flush with the stock body without the spacers.
I'm currently setting up my FC for grip and am completely clueless when it comes to suspension/tires.
The entire engine is done, making about 500whp, but I don't have a clue what rims or tires to get.
Help??
The entire engine is done, making about 500whp, but I don't have a clue what rims or tires to get.
Help??
With that much power, imho, you should get a little more traction up front to help with any hard braking. the 275's in the back should provide a nice balance for the power you're putting out.
Rishie
you need the biggest, widest wheels you can fit in your wheel wells, at the lowest ride height possible.
/thread. lol jkjk Richie knows his thing! definitely take his advice, as it's on point!
/thread. lol jkjk Richie knows his thing! definitely take his advice, as it's on point!
I tried putting on my wheels and coilovers yesterday.
These are SSR 18x8,5J (although I suspect these being 9", I'll measure it up soon), ET35 wheels, with tein ha coilovers., 245/40/18 tires.
To mount these I needed to remove the coilover helper springs, and use a 2mm spacer. I'm going to change the front tires to 225/40/18 so that I can remove the spacers. The wheels stick out a tiny bit now, should be flush with the stock body without the spacers.
18x8.5 +35 is really close to fitting/not fitting with 245 depending on what coilovers you have.
2mm spacer, thats not a whole lot. Did you already loosen where the strut mounts to the hub carrier and pull it to max positive camber to move the tire away from the strut?
Another trick is to get crash bolts for the upper strut to hub carrier mount and dial in positive camber.
OFC adjust actual camber with the strut top mount.
I did 17x8.5+30 w/ 255/40 on JIC FLTA2 and now FLT-TAR with just the pulling slop toward positive camber method. My max negative camber was 2.75 deg though.
I just went down to 235/40 for a lower ride height with same suspension travel, but it feels like I will be able to make up the traction with the added negative camber I can run- well, in cornering but not braking T^T
These are SSR 18x8,5J (although I suspect these being 9", I'll measure it up soon), ET35 wheels, with tein ha coilovers., 245/40/18 tires.
To mount these I needed to remove the coilover helper springs, and use a 2mm spacer. I'm going to change the front tires to 225/40/18 so that I can remove the spacers. The wheels stick out a tiny bit now, should be flush with the stock body without the spacers.
18x8.5 +35 is really close to fitting/not fitting with 245 depending on what coilovers you have.
2mm spacer, thats not a whole lot. Did you already loosen where the strut mounts to the hub carrier and pull it to max positive camber to move the tire away from the strut?
Another trick is to get crash bolts for the upper strut to hub carrier mount and dial in positive camber.
OFC adjust actual camber with the strut top mount.
I did 17x8.5+30 w/ 255/40 on JIC FLTA2 and now FLT-TAR with just the pulling slop toward positive camber method. My max negative camber was 2.75 deg though.
I just went down to 235/40 for a lower ride height with same suspension travel, but it feels like I will be able to make up the traction with the added negative camber I can run- well, in cornering but not braking T^T
Your rims will not clear the front. You're going to need a 25mm spacer for the front and 5mm spacer for the rear to be able to clear it safely I hope you got some coilovers too or you're going to need larger spacers.
Also the amount of neg camber, and tire size will tell you how much to roll and pull.
I'm running 17x9+17 255/40/17's front and rear. Had to flare out the front quite a bit and the rears just a tad so I can zero out my camber front and rear and not rub.
In this pic, running -1.5 camber in front and -2.7 in the rear. Waiting on my adjusters from AWR to come so I can zero out.
18x8.5 +35 is really close to fitting/not fitting with 245 depending on what coilovers you have.
2mm spacer, thats not a whole lot. Did you already loosen where the strut mounts to the hub carrier and pull it to max positive camber to move the tire away from the strut?
Another trick is to get crash bolts for the upper strut to hub carrier mount and dial in positive camber.
OFC adjust actual camber with the strut top mount.
I did 17x8.5+30 w/ 255/40 on JIC FLTA2 and now FLT-TAR with just the pulling slop toward positive camber method. My max negative camber was 2.75 deg though.
I just went down to 235/40 for a lower ride height with same suspension travel, but it feels like I will be able to make up the traction with the added negative camber I can run- well, in cornering but not braking T^T
2mm spacer, thats not a whole lot. Did you already loosen where the strut mounts to the hub carrier and pull it to max positive camber to move the tire away from the strut?
Another trick is to get crash bolts for the upper strut to hub carrier mount and dial in positive camber.
OFC adjust actual camber with the strut top mount.
I did 17x8.5+30 w/ 255/40 on JIC FLTA2 and now FLT-TAR with just the pulling slop toward positive camber method. My max negative camber was 2.75 deg though.
I just went down to 235/40 for a lower ride height with same suspension travel, but it feels like I will be able to make up the traction with the added negative camber I can run- well, in cornering but not braking T^T
Last edited by John Huijben; May 11, 2011 at 12:55 AM.
Searched this thread but couldn't find anything. I'm doing a shock and spring combo soon, and I'm wanting to run 225's on the OEM 16's. From what I've heard, there is a chance of rubbing. Now as we all know, the OEM 16x7's are not perfectly flush. What kind of spacer would be needed to keep the tires from rubbing and having them nice and flush?
Picture of car being used:
Picture of car being used:
Currently building an FC3S for drift... Wheels are 18x9.5JJ et12 non-staggered all around wrapped in 225/40/r18's.
As for footwork... currently (temporarily) sitting on Tokiko shocks + Intraxx lowering springs. Waiting on a set of Cusco coilovers, pillow mounts / camber plates, upgraded sway bars front and rear, lower front arm brace, complete prothane bushing kit, and some other goodies.
Should be a fairly nice setup with adequate contact patches that will be able to hold power when I want it to, but still break loose when I need it to. A wider profile would just be overkill for my intentions with this car.


As for footwork... currently (temporarily) sitting on Tokiko shocks + Intraxx lowering springs. Waiting on a set of Cusco coilovers, pillow mounts / camber plates, upgraded sway bars front and rear, lower front arm brace, complete prothane bushing kit, and some other goodies.
Should be a fairly nice setup with adequate contact patches that will be able to hold power when I want it to, but still break loose when I need it to. A wider profile would just be overkill for my intentions with this car.


Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,564
Likes: 26
From: Cincinnati, OH
You may want to hold off on the sway bars, most drifters (myself included) prefer no sway bars. At least none in the rear. It provides more traction and eliminates snap oversteer our cars have. Some food for thought.
those wheels Look way2big in every way it's just wrong .
anyways . . . best i've seen on Fc was
front 16x8 , +35 offset
rear 16x8 , +0 offset can't remember tires size but the car was all stock
and it Looked perfect fluch .
now i ordered and waiting to get
16x8 , +0 offset all four
i'll have picx as soon as i get them i only hope front wan't stick out being +0 offset
anyways . . . best i've seen on Fc was
front 16x8 , +35 offset
rear 16x8 , +0 offset can't remember tires size but the car was all stock
and it Looked perfect fluch .
now i ordered and waiting to get
16x8 , +0 offset all four
i'll have picx as soon as i get them i only hope front wan't stick out being +0 offset





