sakura_FC

iTrader: (4)

I've got 30mm front and rear fenders and I'm looking for a good setup to fill in the fenders. I drew up a diagram of my car to better illustrate my situation.



I don't know if I've done my math right, but I'm thinking the following will fit:
F 18x9.5 +10 R 18x10.5 +5

I'm on Tein S-tech springs with stock shocks. I know for a fact that I would have to camber a bit in the front. I've fit a 19x11 +18 in the rear before and it sat nice and flush. I don't recall the tire size, but they had a modest stretch. There were no rubbing issues at all.

My questions are:
1) Will F 18x9.5 +10 R 18x10.5 +5 fit?
2) If so, what tire sizes do you guys recommend?
3) Will I be able to fit an 18x11 in the rear? If so, what offset and tire size?

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

18x9.5 +10 gives you exactly the right backspace up front to work with a conical stock style spring, though if your tire gets to tall/bulgy you are REALLY close to rubbing a spring coil with the sidewall.

18x9.5 +10 would +30 fender with 255 no problems and 275 with a lot of negative camber and shaving the inner fender lip.

In the rear you need way more offset as the +5 will barely clear a 275 unless you went gonzo on negative camber or flexed the +30 fender out before attaching.

For correct backspace with 18x10.5 you want a +25 offset so you could run a 295 or work to get a 305 back there.

So 255 and 275 for the wheel sizes you listed and +30 fenders.

Check this site out. Put a known fitment in the left side and check the questionable ones on the right.

From personal experience I knew with stock fenders a 245/45 on 16x8 +30 fits up front w/ stock style springs or a 255/40 on 17x8.5 +30 on coilovers up front.

I knew a 275/40 on 17x9.5+40 fit in the rear.

http://www.wheelsmaster.com/rt_specs.jsp

1988_6-port

hey I have 16x7 + 40 all around on stock suspension. What size tires can I fit in front and rear?

90FC

^^^Some guys have been able to get a 225/50 to fit, but you risk rubbing on the stock spring up front. I would go with a 205/55 or 215/50 all around.

If you want wider tires, you need wider wheels.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

225/50 should do you fine

TitaniumTT

Since the two people who I hoping will answer this seem to be the most active in this thread (Ian & Johnson) Here is my dilema

Right now I have a set of Kosei's 17x7 +35 & 17x8 +38 wrapped in Yoko A520 215/40 & 235/45. Both the rim and the tire have been discontinued & I can't locate a used rim to save my life. New rubber is needed with all the extra power I'll be putting out soon. My options are

a set of used Intercast 17x8 & 9 no rubber
5Zigen Fno1r-c 17x8 + 35 17lbs, 17x9+35 18.5 lbs. I'd wrap these in Falken Azenis RT-615 235/40 & 255 40. Option 1
A set of XXR 006 - same size and offset as above but 21.5 & prob ~24lbs - same rubber Option 2
A set of 5Zigen Pro racers 17x8.5 +30 20.5lbs & 17x9.5 +38 21lbs wrapped in Falken Azenis 255/40 & 275/40 - Option 3

Questions are - is there going to be a noticable differnce in feel between option 1 & 2 due to the increased weight of the rim? I'm running a depowered 15.2 rack.

Will option 3 even fit given the ever so slight decrease in offset compared to the 17x9.5 +40 that Ians running?

Is there going to be a worthwhile increase in grip going with the 255/275 as opposed to the tried and true fitments of options 1 or 2

If I were to wrap my original rims in pure race rubber - hoosier, BFG g-force R1 in a 225/45 255/40. how would those compare to the Azenis in the larger 255/275 staggering.

Lastly - street tire, not a DD by any stretch of the imagination and will only see rain if caught in a storm on a road trip. Better option - Falken Azenis, or BFG KDW?

Thanks guys

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

-I cannot provide an answer because I have no experience with the depowered 15.2 rack. In every FC i've owned, I've only encountered the factory manual rack. If my experiences are of any use, the weight of the wheel plays a negligible role in steering effort, but the tire size does. You will notice almost no change when the car is in motion, but at slow speeds, you will definitely feel it. It'll be odd at first, but after a few weeks of driving, you should get used to it.

-Definitely. IIRC, Ian's clearance between tire and the control arm is very small, but manageable. Your wheels give an additional 2mm of clearance (if you run the same brand/model/size tire). Your front wheels should fit no problem. The difference in clearance between yours and mine are about .01 inch. Yours will actually have more clearance from the suspension than mine. There is a SLIGHT possibility you may have to roll the inner lips on the fenders.

-Now that we know that the 17x8.5/17x9.5 can fit, of course! Judging from your meticulous build, you should be in the neighborhood of 350-400whp, or more if you're running a hybrid (BNR, etc). For what it's worth, I can spin my 255's pretty easily, and I'm only at ~250whp.

-Ian can answer this one, I've always ran street rubber so my input would be pure speculation.

-Falken Azenis RT615. If I could offer another choice, try out the new Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec's. They are only a little bit more expensive than the Azenis, but boast improvements on the weaknesses inherent to the RT615 (Greasy when hot, fast wear rate)

I hope I answered of your questions, with the exception of the first and fourth one. If there's anything I missed, or you would like to know, feel free to ask. Although it's late, HAPPY NEW YEARS!

Black91n/a

17x7? I thought your official unofficial motto was: "If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing."

I'd go with Enkei RPF1's for the absolute best balance of weight, strength and price out there for light weight wheels and I'd go with the widest stuff you can possibly fit, since you'll be running lots of power. The cost for RPF1's is a little less than the 5Zigen Pro Racer Gn's, they're available in the same sizes and offsets as you listed while being 5lbs and 4.5lbs lighter front and rear respectively. That should be fairly noticable from the driver's seat.

As for the difference between a wider street tire and a narrower race tire, the race tire will probably have more grip, but a wide race tire will have the most grip. With only occasional use in mostly the dry, something like a Toyo R888 or a Nitto NT-01 might be the best choice. Stuffing wide race tires on narrower rims will compromoise steering feel, so I'd go with the widest wheels you can reasonably fit.

As for Azenis vs. KDW's, I'd go with Azenis, they're just fine in the rain, but can and do overheat if used hard on the track in warm weather.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

I agree! I still have my Volk ebay search bookmarked and I can tell you that there hasn't been anything used for the last several months we could use for an FC.

One thing I noticed when I was really into the idea of buying 5Zigen FN01R-C is that Edge racing weights were definitely erring on the light side. I was looking at the 17x10 +35 and everyone that owned them said they weighed in at ~21lbs while Edge Racing says 19.5lbs.

I like the look of the FNs more than RP01, but I would buy RP01 in black if I was buying now.

RP01 fitment with room to grow-

Rear- 17x10 +38. Start w/ 255/40 and work to 275 if you decide you need more traction and can stand the understeer. The rim is really close to trailing arm, but it actually gives more tire clearance to trailing arm than my current 17x9.5 +40. Sticks out 2mm further on outside, but since the tire is more stretched and it is the sidewall that hits the fender lip- it will probably work out the same as what I have now.

Front- 17x9 +22. More clearance toward suspension than what I have, but 8mm further out. No problem, run a 245/40-17 and it is 3mm further out, but that pesky sidewall is a better shape due to stretch so no issue. Then when you realize you NEED to roll the front fenders or get +30 fenders on an FC you can easily upgrade to 255 or 275 up front.

If you HATE any bumpsteer or trammeling you will have to stick with a skinnier front tire and as close to stock +40 offset on the FC. But I don't see that as an option w/ your beast so you will learn to live with it.

Now, tire weight makes way more difference than wheel weight since they are further from the center of mass/rotation. The 275 are HEAVY at 29lbs versus 255 at 25lbs. Extra weight will help bog your engine so you hook up, but will play havoc with traction over even small bumps/ripples at the outside edge of the pavement.

Street tires-

You will want 200 treadwear, don't bother looking at KDW. The dynos of STOCK sequential twins with intake/exhaust I have seen recently are peaking around 380RWP and have as much as 150RWHP at 3,000rpm. A really quick spooling single like GT35R or RX6 sees 100-120RWHP at 3,000rpm if the setup is perfect.

RT-615 are good. A bit noisy and now superseded twice by waves of stickier 200 treadwear tires. I was just talking to the GF about what we were going to replace her RT-615 with. A real problem with a high power RWD (not Miata, lol) and RT-615 is they get REALLY greasy when you overheat them and you will be spinning the rear a lot.

That is why I love the DOT R. On the street they get stickier when you first surpass their "cold" limits. On the track the R888, RA1, NT01 get greasy fairly slowly so you notice it and can drop the aggression until they hook back up.

DOT R also have WAY better traction in the wet than street tires. What they lack is HYDROPLANE resistance, but that is really easy to feel and judge when you have to slow down. You may get stuck doing 60mph through the flooded sections of freeway to keep the tires in contact with the road, but the braking will be so much better you will get rear ended by someone with hydroplane resistant street tires.

Now, you didn't ask about DOT R tires- but you will be researching them after you get your beast running and 200 treadwear tires are lasting 4,000miles because of the wheelspin. DOT R will last 10-15,000miles due to less wheelspin and won't spin on a dry freeway in 4th gear.

200 treadwear I would try fairly cheap Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec or stick to way cheap RT-615. Whatever, you won't have them long.

Having driven a CSP RX-7 w/ both 225? Kumho V710 on stock vert wheels and 255/40 RT-615 on 17x9 RP01 and 245/45 RA1 on 16x7.5/16x8 I can provide some insight here.

As noted turn in FEEL will suffer w/ muffin topped tires, but the limit (even at turn in) will be high. Harder to keep at the limit due to decreased sidewall feel. Not good for track- fine for Auot-X.

Braking and acceleration w/ race tires on skinny rims is unreal. The RT-615 seemed like they had cornering limits very close to the V710 on skinny rims, but the V710 braking was outrageous and that is what you need to win at the track. RA1 on stated rims were right between the aforementioned.

CSP car has depowered 15:1 rack, big stock steering wheel and only 2400lbs weight. WAY too heavy steering with 255 on 17x9 or 245 on 16x7.5. I have to sit back from the wheel with a helmet on as it is sunroof car and that puts my short arms fairly straight so I lose some strength. I cannot keep ahead of the steering on the tight end of Auto-X course and have to slow the car. I still set one of the fastest split times on the short side w RA1 even against the many Miata w/ V700, but I could have gone faster with 20:1 rack or power steering.

SM2 car has 20:1 rack, 2600lbs with no sunroof and I don't notice the slow steering ratio as much simply because you steer with the throttle more as much as the wheel with 400RWHP.

When I had a tiny go Kart sized Momo steering wheel and went to 245 RA1 I did notice I had to give more steering input and had to go to a larger 310mm Momo as I was getting behind the steering. GF said the whole car was reverberating as my palms struck the tiny wheel hand over hand in the tight sections.

I really hate how much the larger wheel flexes back and forth on acceleration. Very disconcerting on the street.

Now, don't ask so many involved questions at once- lol.

TitaniumTT

I've yet to actually drive my car with this depowered rack. Only move it back and forth on the epoxy floor with the car off. It seems to be just as heavy as with the powersteering. I still have a 15.2 power rack but my coils are now mounted where my PS pump would go so adding it back on would be a little bit of a pain but definately do-able. My first choice I think would be the manual rack though.


The 17x8+38 with a 235/45 BARELY clears the suspension and lines up perfect with the fender. This is @ 0* camber though. The clearance between the suspension and tire won't chance with camber but the tire to fender clearance will. This is where I was concerned. Although, it a 17x8.5 +30 clears the suspension I should be good. Brian just wants alot of meat becuase I had traction problems N/A and I'm worried that the car is going to be unmanageable with ~375 RWHP. I can limit the boost in the ECU with tables that match gear vs throttle vs TPS but the wastegate is ~ 7.5psi which should net high 200's.

You did, thanks Johnson and Happy New Years to you too.

TitaniumTT

It is, but I bought the rims litterally 10 years ago and on stock suspension. From the research I did back then, that was the biggest I could get in there. People are bolder now I guess

I just am not a fan for the Enkeis. They just don't do it for me sadly but they are a great lightweight rim. My original thought was to use the smaller Kosies for race rubber and get a decent good looking rim for street duties. But after reading Ians post about DOT R's.... Now I'm thinking a little differently.

The thought was though to use the Kosei's for the trackdays with race rubber. 225/255. But again, if I'm going to run DOT R on the street.... that sorta changes the game plan slightly. Probably not in the end but the means to the end would change. I'd get a cheaper rim now just to get some more meat in and then go with a set of Volks, Gram Lites, BBS's or the like next winter.

That's exactely what I read about them in GRM. They didn't test, at least that I saw, the KDW but people seem to love the KDW's in the rain.

gkmccready

Are you certain about that? When you tilt the top of the tire in it will definitely get closer to your spring!

TitaniumTT

My rims too. TR Motorsports that were forged by Kosei. I cannot find ANY! If I could find matching 17x9 it would be an easy choice but I can't

That's discouraging about the weights as I am really not a fan of the Enkei styles. The FN and GN are nice. Ideally I'd love to stuff some BBS LM's but I can't justify the cost right now.

Understeer is really what my main concern is. In the past with those tires and Eibach/tokico's and a modd'ed S4 diff, the understeer was ridiculous. Even with N/A power the nose would lift enough that understeer was present. I'm hoping with the new c/o's and a choice between 4 different spring rates (5, 6, 7, & 8 - right now fitted withe 7/5) and the Torsen that I swapped in, I won't have that problem as much. It seems that staggering tires often leads to unwanted understeer. Although - plenty of OEM's do it without any ill effects so I think it's just a matter of tuning everything else. I have plenty of choices or sway bars as well. Stock TII, Stock SE, and the RB's that are on there now. Adjustable hiem links in the front too.



Thanks

So is it safe to say that the difference between the Enkies and the 5Zigens will be a less noticeable if fitted with the same tire?



That is exactely the reason that I went through all the trouble, well still am, of getting these twins functioning. People for the last 2 years have been telling me to scrap the twins in favor of a GT 35R but the low end just isn't there. A smaller GT32 MIGHT have better spool and low end torque, but you loose the higher end significantly. For my powe goal - ~4-450 RWHP, I saw really no better option. I won't get to that goal until the BNR 3's are on which are basically twin GT28's. Nail on the head Ian, the whole reason for all this fuss as opposed to a bolt on kit that would've saved me thousands of dollars.

This is some very interesting insight right here. I never would've thought that the Nitto NT-01 would last longer than the Azenis. Your logic is undeniable though and I was a little concerned about the greasyness of the Azenis that I kept reading about. I don't think it would be that much of a problem for auto-x days, but if I were to start doing a few track days like I hope, that would become a real problem.

Ian, you mentioned spinning 4th on a dry freeway. Is this something that you've experienced and what tires/size were they. Have you had this problem with the NT-01's or have you not had a chance to drive yet becuase of the weather? Also.... approx what is your RWHP in that beast of yours?



This is what I was thinking about the race tires. If I do end up getting a set of DOT R tires.... which honestly is how I'm leaning now fitted on some GN racers... I would still have a very light 17x7 and 17x8 rim that cold be fitted with dedicated race rubber. 225/255 will fit nice and not be too muffin-topped ( I love that term for other reasons ) and I would think would provide better grip but less wear than DOT R tires. Then when the next year rolls around and I'm set with the street rims, buy a set of Enkei RPF01's in black and fit those with the widest rubber possible. That is the route I'm thinking about now. I'd like to drive the car on the street more. The year that I had it on the road 3 years ago I logged 1,207 miles . The tires that are on there are the same ones that were mounted when I bought the rims nearly 10 years ago and they have ~20k on them. 280 treadwear I believe. There's still pleny of life left, but they're OLD and weren't gripping worth a damn 2 years ago when I drove the car last.



Uh oh - I'm running a smaller than stock Sparco. Although like I said I didn't really notice that much of a difference at all with the car on the ground and @ weight. I also have a Sparco release hub which puts the wheel a little closer to me. I also have a bad knee and back so my seat is closer than most @ my height just to keep me upright and the extension on my knee down. I guess we'll see in a bit when I get the thing going. A good buddy of mine has some 235/40's. I think what I'll do is run around on the 215's that I have and then put his 235's on and see the difference. If it's negligable I think I'll be alright with a 255 up front..... although I think the DOT R compound would make a tremendous difference @ low speeds.

I wonder if Town Fair Tire will honor that 30 trial period with DOT R's

Could you please elaborate? I would think that a 275/40 on a 9.5" rim wouldn't be so muffin-topped that the sidewalls would be pretty strait and the low profile would further assist with keeping the tire under the rim.


Sorry. Part of the long answer is due to your knowledge though, not the question. Someone else could've answered with a single word -

Thanks Ian, as always, great info

TitaniumTT

Not on an FC where the spring is mounted to the c/o that is mounted to the knuckle that the wheel/tire is mounted on. They will all move as one.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Lol, I am in the same boat. Since form follows function for me the Enkei rims are growing on me. They are the same weight as my FORGED Volks in 17 diameter.

Well, you will keep some of the stock understeer with eibach springs and OEM replacement dampers. The shimmed S4 rear was really exacerbating this though.

When ScrapFC owned the CSP car we went from his Eibach/Tokiko? to my SM2 cars JIC FLTA2s (7/5 rates) and we got our oversteer. I recently disconnected the rear sway bar and it is still tends toward oversteer on anything except a too fast low speed turn in.

On the 24th I will have the 1st Auto-X of the season and it looks like it will be the CSP car w/ 255/275 and reconnecting the rear swaybar (245 all around on it now).

On the SM2 car in the low speed Auto-X sections you have to turn in before you hit the gas in 2nd or it will plow before boost hits as the S4 rear end locks w/ 245 all around. Try it in 1st and you can keep the rear end in line.

I say, start with mild stagger 235/255 or 245/255 or even 255/275 and tune out the understeer.

I don't think the difference will be that noticeable- probably not at all with a 29lb 275 rear tire, you will just be kicking yourself for going with a rim 3lbs heavier since that is usually a $1000 difference in rim prices (cast vs forged).

It is not logic, but rather personal experience. I went through 1 set of Yok A520 and 2 sets of Dunlop SP8000 (both 200 treadwear) with an average of 4,000miles a set. RA1 lasted 15,000miles under exact same circumstances.

That was 225/50 Dunlop SP8000 on the Volk 16x8. I was used to no traction in 1st through 3rd but on a cold night I tried doing top speed runs starting in 4th and couldn't keep in in my lane over 5,000rpm. Pulled into the garage and checked for loose suspension parts- nope. Went back out and started the pulls in 5th and no problems.

Part of my problem was light wheel/tire. Part rear coilover rate. Yet another part the large 2ndary ports (found a graph of side port volume vs flow and torque and large ports torque suck below 5,000rpm and then really come on). Last, the FD UIM gives you a big 20lb hit in torque at ~5,000rpm to cover the dip for sequential transition.

W/ 225 RA1 on the same rim it would hold traction in 3rd and you could control wheelspin in 2nd with the throttle.

W/ 245 RA1 you kinda almost had traction through 2nd on a straight, clean, dry and warm road.

Haven't had the car running w/ 275 yet, but I know it will hold 2nd fine just due to the 8lb difference in tire/wheel weight. That and I will be running a "mild" port job for more low end power and less top end power.

Passengers at Auto-X were always amazed that I had to keep the tach between 3,000rpm and 5,000rpm to maintain low slip angles when they had assumed from the outside I was in the 5-8,000rpm powerband of the car. Only on the straights.

Even on the hillclimb I had to very slowly squeeze the gas in 2nd coming off corners to keep the wheelspin manageable and I have people telling me I need a smaller turbo because it is spooling so late. lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y34WgBiysrk

I am the BLUE TII at the end of the clip (1:55 and 2:12). The 1st scene I get on the gas slowly enough to avoid wheelspin in 2nd. The 2nd clip is me getting on the gas too early in 2nd, the WG opens, I back pedal and get back into it. That is what sounds kinda like a shift.

245 RA1 running w/ only the rear leading plug and both trailing working. Pulled much better on top end when I put in a front leading plug with a ground strap. The hill is pretty steep there which the video doesn't show well.

I would say my RWHP is between 3-400? Dunno. I have had racer/instructors tell me it pulled much harder than the 500RWHP cars they have ridden in but those are cars usually 1,000lbs heavier.

No no, it is the larger Momo steering wheel flexes back ~1/2 when the power hits at 5,000rpm in 2nd. On Touge you are constantly pulling through this band and it is disconcerting. The smaller wheel was more solid.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Damn, that hillclimb looks like great fun!

90FC

Good info in here. If I had known earlier about Maczpayne and Blue TII wheel fitments, I might have sprung for a more aggressive setup.

TitaniumTT

Oh I agree completely but I was leaning, and still am a little, to two different sets of rims. One for street use that are more form, and the other for track use that would be all function. They could by ugly as **** but light and strong and I'd be happy. For street use though I'd like something that looks as good as, if not better than it performs. The GN's are really growing on me for this use. Wrap the kosei's in race rubber this year if I feel the need and spring for a really nice set of dual purpose rims in the future, when I'm not looking at another winter costing $5-7,000 in more toys.

This is in line with what I was experienceing. A ton of understeer. I remember one highway entrance ramp that would be considered a low speed turn in depending on the light sequence. From a red light you couldn't get enough speed up to get out of first so the turn in was acceptable. Anything higher would require alot of braking whil turning. One evening someone gave me the room to get in and I stomped on the gas in 2nd. Turned the wheel while accelerating and nothing happened. When I stabbed the brakes the nose caught, the car turned, jumped back on the gas without moving the wheel and the car started plowing again. Not fun at all.

I shimmed the S4 rear because it originally had somewhere around 190,000 on it when I pulled it from a GXL. The clutches were all on the lower end of the wear mark. As opposed to spending the hundred of dollars on new plates I opted for the shims. Not the best decision but I don't think the lock-up was nearly as bad as some S4's. I can't wait to drive with the Torsen......mmmmmmmmm

Which would you suggest? I'm generally all for my unofficial official motto and starting witht he 255/275 but a good friend suggested something smaller. He has in his possesion for his FC 235/40/17 all around. I think what I'll end up doing is driving around on the 215/235 set to start while some of the tuning is being done (not to worried about traction when doing low throttle pulls) but I'll be able to get a feel for the steering reponse/effort. Slap on his BFG"" 235/40's for a bit and see if there is too much of an increase in steering effort vs feel when jumping 20 mm in width. If it's negligable, I'll probably jump right into it with the 255/275 IFF I go with the right sized rim. If not, I'm stuck at 235/255 which is still a noticable improvement.

I'm confused, if I probably won't notice a 3 lb difference in rim weight due to the tire, why would I kick myself for saving $1,000 in rims? I'm missing something that blatantly obvious aren't I?

That life expectance is ridiculous. I still have my yoko A520's. The tread looks pretty decent even though they are OLD. Although, they have ~ 20k on them, it was mostly commuting when it was a DD 8-10 years ago, and light track use. And all n/a power.... or lack there of. In reality though I was probably ~ 160ish RWHP

Smaller turbo becuase it's spooling too late? Wow. I dunno, I've always been one to try to look at "net HP" as opposed to peak HP.

I'm thinking our power bands are going to about the same in the higherend which lends me pay close attention to the 245 kinda sorta having traction and leaning towards a 235/255 or 255/275 stagger to start.

Here's an interesting question though. I haven't played with the haltech software in about 2 years but I know on the my Motec I have two boost comp tables that I can run. The first one I have setup as boost vs gear vs TPS and the second is a dash located trim switch that I';m going to have trim the first comp table. My plan is to limit boost to WG in first and then bring on more boost as gears increase. There is also going to be a linear relationship between WG and max boost based on TPS position. If throttle is @ 50%, than boost will be basically ((MAX boost for whatever gear I'm in)-WG)*50% and so on. I think that will give me finer boost control under my right foot and hopefully lead to less traction issues and less backpeddling to get traction. Does the Haltech have any boost comp tables like that?

That hill climb does look like a ton of fun. If I was just listening and didn't see all the tire smoke from the inside, yeah I can see how it could be misinterpreted as a shift

Ah, I get it now...... duhhhhhhhh moment.

DC13B

serious thumbs up on yalls conversation

im looking for right around 400whp and will most likely track

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

I will send you a PM as response as we are derailing the thread and I don't have any short answers.

Feel free to start your own thread and insert my PM responses if you think it would benifit others.

Ian

Black91n/a

If I were you and I went with anything but the absolute biggest stuff that'll possibly fit, I'd forever be wondering "what if..." about the larger stuff. For an NA car, 17x8.5's and 235/40/17's all around would be a really nice setup, but for your car, I'd go bigger.

Go big or go home, that's my take on it anyway (with turbo power anyway).

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

I agree..
I just got 17X9 +24 all the way around on my NA. I put 235/40/17s in front and I'm running 245/45/17s in the back. The car looks really good, but I would like to go with the 235/40s in the back as well to lower the final drive back to where it was, and for the ability to rotate.

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

Would Rota P-45Rs in a 17x9 +25 with a stretched 225/55//17 fit all around? Stock fenders and Stance GR+ Coilovers

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Those tires are too tall unless you are planning to keep the car at stock height. 225/45/17s will be ok.

K!NCH

iTrader: (2)

45 is what I meant. >_<