arutha

iTrader: (2)

I am installing a used set of koni yellows and I have a question about the nuts for the top. Attached is a picture of what I am looking at. Do I need the rubber stopper on top of this nut and then tighted down or should it go below this nut.

Thanks

DamonB

Stopper, then lock washer, then nut. (At least that's how the FD's are...)

arutha

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Damon. And it is for an FD. The shocks I took off have a nut under the stopper but it seems to fit in the groove of the stopper so the stopper still contacts the car. With that nut on the Konis it doesn't appear to.

PVerdieck

You should need to drill the whatchamacallit thing. The rubber spacer/donut with a metal core that goes on top of the shock. I had to make it wider to fit. But that might be particular to my OEM R2 shock hardware.

DamonB

No, you're right. The shaft on the Koni is thicker so you have to drill the holes larger on the rubber part. That's the only mod required to make the Koni fit

PVerdieck

Before he gets any further, lets also add this.

I think me and my buddy messed up, and didn't properly loosen up the bottom of the front suspension/a-arm/whatever where the bottom of the shock mounts. The OEMs came out OK, but we could not get the Konis in properly. I ended up filing down a little on each side of the bottom of the Konis before we could get them in. I am talking about the cylindrical metal sleeve for the retaining bolt in the bottom.

DamonB

You messed up All the suspension on the FD is aluminum which is soft. Anywhere a bolt goes through an aluminum suspension part there is a steel sleeve that is pressed into the aluminum for the bolt to pass through and so not wear into the part. These sleeves "float" inside the arms. If you were to look closely at the lower front shock mounts you'll see the sleeves in there. You just tap them back out of the way with a hammer and then when you tighten the mounting bolt this will pull them back in tight.

The front lower shock mounts and the mount for the front anti-roll bar drop links have floating steel sleeves. At the rear you have them where the toe links connect to the hub and at the top and bottom of the hub. It's common when installing aftermarket rear toe links to have to tap the sleeves back as well. People never notice it when just doing the rear pillowballs because the new pillowballs are exactly the same width. That's not necessarily true with aftermarket parts and so sometimes you have to push the sleeves in a little, but again when you tighten the bolt this will pull the sleeves back in tight to the part.

FWIW a little filing to make the part fit won't hurt anything, it just takes longer.

arutha

iTrader: (2)

Yep had to drill out the stoppers too, but all is well now with the stacking order. Thanks again for your help.