teflon

Okay, before anyone starts flaming because there's already topics on this, I would just like to say that I have read about 10 threads on this issue, but I'm still not exactly sure what the problem is. It could be the Toe Links, Trailing Arms, the rear 6 Pillow bushings, or the control arms.

The Problem:

Whenever I brake (medium to hard) or shift (while applying the gas medium speed or fast speed after the shift) the back of the car goes "CLUNK-CLUNK" and the back jerks back and forth REALLY REALLY hard.

What I've learned:

What I've learned is that it could be the rear toe links that's worn or the infamous pillow bushings in the back. After sifting furthur through the forms, I found out that these symptons could also be the trailing arms or the control arms.

Result:

Now while I limited the list of possible problems, I really can't afford at this point to fix all of them nor do I really want to.

Pillow Bushings would be 350 or so
Toe Links would be 250 (rotary extreme)
Trailing arms 200
Control arms 250 per side

Yikes!

Question:

1)So, I would really like to pinpoint the problem and fix just the problem now and save up and replace the rest of the parts at a later date. Based on the symptons, what do I do and what/how should I check to find the precise problem??

2)How reliable are used trailing arms, toe links, and control arms?? Some people sell used one for pretty cheap, but is it worth the risk?


ANY help would be appreciated. Thanks!

adam c

iTrader: (2)

If you don't know what to look for, take the car to an alignment shop. Most places will give you a free estimate.

You really need to get under the car to find the problem. People here can only guess, while you can get under there, and be sure.

Just do it

RE Suzuki

For my case it was the diff mounts and trailing arms.

maxcooper

"REALLY REALLY hard" sounds pretty severe. Like a broken PPF or something. Did this just start?

The rest of the stuff you just have to dig in and diagnose. Jack up a corner, try to wiggle the wheel around in different directions. Use your eyes and hands to really figure out what's loose.

Alternately, just replace the most likely culprits as you get the money. There is a very good chance that you need new toe links (stock last the longest, BTW) and some pillow ***** anyway.

See what you have in there (all stock? some aftermarket stuff?). Aftermarket stuff typically wears out faster than the stock parts.

-Max

teflon

I'm actually all stock right now. I bought the car a week ago, so I'm not sure what's wrong with it.

It has 130K on the body, so I'm just going to assume that none of the suspension parts have ever been replaced.

Do you guys know if Rotary Extreme does free inspection for suspension or do i just take it to any random alignment place? Didn't know alignment places do all this fancy suspension work, but I guess hey have to if a car doesn't align right.

vel525

iTrader: (4)

had similar problem and i replaced the pillow bushings. that fixed the clunk for me. i will probably upgrade the trailing arms and toe links down the road, but the pilloball bushings were great!! good luck.

teflon

Does it even make sense to get used stock toe links and trailing arms? Or should I just go for new ones from RotaryExtreme?

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

with that many miles on the chassis, I bet is the pillow ball bshings and the PPF.

teflon

What's a PPF?

WaLieN

Power Plant Frame -- It's a black brace that runs from the end of your transmission to your differential.

teflon

So did you guys just get new trailing arms and toe links? Or used one with low miles okay too?

adam c

iTrader: (2)

If your toe link bearings are bad, just get new ones from Mazda, and have them pressed into your existing arms.

Kaotic Dan

Is your shifter moving around alot at the same time? If so It is definatly your Power Plant Frame. You probably have a crack, most likely near the transmission side of the brace.

dclin

iTrader: (4)

Sorry if this adds to your confusion, but I actually got rid of a majority of my clunking by replacing the diff bushings. The rest went away when I got my mits on jimlab's low mileage, polished arms and had his nylon bushings pressed in. Having said that, I would just get new bushings. There are few on this forum that I would trust to buy used bushings off of. There really is no need to replace the arms themselves, unless you suspect or can verify they were damaged in an accident, etc. I just happened to get a terrific deal from Jim.

teflon

Does the differential bushings come with the 6 pillow bushings? Or is that something else entirely?

WaLieN

They are totally different.

teflon

So i shoud replaced the 6 pillow bushings, toe links, trailing arms, AND differential bushings? =T

WaLieN

You will have to see how much you are willing to spend. See if any of the bushings have freeplay prior to spending ~$800 in parts.

maxcooper

That is something else entirely.

I recommend getting a picture of the suspension so you can see what bushings go where.

-Max

alberto_mg

you know, it would probably be cheaper to take your car to a rotary specialist and get a professional opinion on what is wrong. i doubt they would charge you more than an hour's worth of labor to look the suspension over and that is a helluva lot cheaper than just buying **** and slapping it on hoping it might fix the problem.

it doesn't sound like you know what to look for or how to look for it. it's a bit difficult to learn that solely by reading about it here.

you can find a rotary specialist by going to the regional forums for your area. considering you are in the bay are, it should be easy. I think Rick's Rotary is up by you.