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FEAL Suspension 441 coilover review - FD3S

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FEAL Suspension 441 coilover review - FD3S

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Old 04-09-18, 06:13 PM
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FEAL Suspension 441 coilover review - FD3S

Hey all,

I'm sure at least a few others on here have looked at FEAL, I'd heard lots of 2nd hand experience that these are great coilovers for the price and that they don't ride like every other low budget coilover. Well I went out and bought a set and here's the install and first impressions.

Opening the box I was pleasantly greeted with four dyno charts, with a QC stamp. I assume that's quality control, anyways that's just badass!! The dampers were wrapped and packaged well no damage occurred during shipping.

It took a while before I installed them, it was just hard to find free time. Once I started working on getting the old ones off and the new ones on two things surprised me. 1. Wow taking the rears off is super easy. and 2 Wow. Taking the front off sucks! As a reminder here's the procedure I'm sure other threads have covered this, but whatever here it is again.

To remove the rear:
1) With the car in the air and the wheels off, remove the swaybar endlink. It's a 14mm nut on a ball joint with a 14mm slotted section to prevent the ball joint from spinning. Both rears need to be in the air to keep no load on the sway bar.
2) Remove the lower shock mount. 17mm nut on a ball joint with a 17mm slotted section.
3) Remove 3 14mm nuts on the top.
4) You're done

To remove the front:
1) Disconnect the sway bar from the A-arm 14mm again (I actually just completely removed the sway bar as it was easier for me to reconnect that way)
2) Remove hose clip from the strut body
3) Disconnect the wheel speed sensor from the upper a-arm and the knuckle 12mm bolts
4) Unbolt the whole upper a-arm 14mm and slide it down to the base of the shock
5) Remove lower bolt 17mm
6) Remove 3 upper 14mm nuts
7) Compress damper and wiggle it out.

Now a couple issues with the fitment of the FEALs...
- The front lower mount is too wide to fit into the A-arm. It was 1.975" vs. 1.903". There was no chance that was going to fit and I just used a grinder and a file to take off material and it ended up at about 1.895". FEAL seems to think I got the wrong bushings on the lower mount.
- The rear top hat is designed to sit flush against the sheet metal. However there is a metal stud which is used to mount interior plastics. Therefore the top hat can't sit flush against it. I don't have a good solution to this. For now I used fender washers. I'd like to see a FEAL have a solution here, either cut a relief in the rear top hats or ship a spacer with the set. You can see the witness marks on the metal from the previous Teins coilovers which had a provision for this and did not interfere.
- The rear ride height is not adjustable enough. The bottom clevis cannot thread into the body enough to get the ride height to a reasonably low level. The only way I could get the car lower was to remove spare lock ring collars and put the spring perch all the way against the lower clevis. The picture there with the ride height sky jacked is with the clevis bottomed out on the shock body. Therefore the only way I could lower it more was the move the spring perch and release some preload on the spring. Eventually the spring was just loose and I still needed to go further.
- There's no brake line clip mount on the front struts. The Teins I removed did have this. Seems like another lack of attention to detail.

Now for the good news:
On a short test drive over very broken pavement I was actually impressed at the ride quality. Not only was it a huge improvement over the Tein Driving Masters I had on there previous (10kgf F 8kgf R) but even compared to stock cars this is not bad!

I'm currently talking to FEAL to see if they are going to address any of these issues. I'd really like to see them address those points before I could recommend the setup. Once they do however, this seems like it would be the choice kit. Next step is to evaluate it on a skidpad for limit behavior the 14kgf F 10kgf R stagger seems reasonable, but I just want to check it's understeer/oversteer balance at steady state as well as check some quick dynamic inputs and feel out the damper tune. I have a feeling this is where the setup will shine as the ride quality is a hint of their abilities. Hopefully that's the case and I can get past the fitment issues and lack of attention to detail.
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Last edited by w.tungsten; 04-09-18 at 06:18 PM.
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Old 04-10-18, 11:43 AM
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The front control arm lower metal bushing is movable. It needs to be pressed back using a c-clamp or some other device to expand before you can install the coilovers. You definitely didn't need to cut that piece and I'm not sure it's replaceable on its own.

For the rear top hats, drill a hole to allow the piece in the body to go into. That's how the better coils on the market have their top hats made. Doing that will help with your ride height issue, but overall it sounds like they didn't properly design the rear and it's always going to be pretty bottomed out. Hopefully that doesn't kill them quickly.
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Old 04-10-18, 12:08 PM
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Ahhh yeah I bet you're right on the front lower bushing. I noticed there was some gap between the two pieces. Should've tried that first.

Yup FEAL said to just drill a hole so that's what I'm going to do. Trying to see if they are going to make a design change for that part in the future. They said they have never seen that stud before. I was surprised as it seems like all our cars would have it to mount the hatch plastics to. @Smokey you have the same stud that I do correct?
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Old 04-16-18, 10:03 AM
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As a follow up. I looked at HKS hypermax and Megan neither had front brake line clips. Also i'm quite sure the Stance I also saw did not have the hole for the stud so FEAL seems like they're in line with other manufactures.
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