FD3S Camber - Need Help
05-11-10, 11:37 PM
#1
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FD3S Camber - Need Help
Hi guys,
I have a 1992 Series 6 RX-7 which I have just bought some coilovers for.
At present, it is a show pony with 20X8.5 +36 Offset rims on the front and 20x10 +40 Offset rims on the back so the best handling is not what I'm aiming for. Tyres are 225/30/20 on the front and 245/30/20 on the rear.
What I need to know is if it's possible to adjust the camber on both the front and the rear so I don't get guard rub when it is lowered?
Cheers for your help.
I have a 1992 Series 6 RX-7 which I have just bought some coilovers for.
At present, it is a show pony with 20X8.5 +36 Offset rims on the front and 20x10 +40 Offset rims on the back so the best handling is not what I'm aiming for. Tyres are 225/30/20 on the front and 245/30/20 on the rear.
What I need to know is if it's possible to adjust the camber on both the front and the rear so I don't get guard rub when it is lowered?
Cheers for your help.
06-14-10, 11:03 AM
#4
Has anyone ever gotten more camber in the front of you FD by fitting the lower control arm with different eccentric bolts (ie bigger lobes?).
I am looking for an affordable way to pick up another 0.5* negative camber. The JDm upper A-Arms are uber amounts of money I don't want to spend. Thanks in advance for your help!
Just found these: http://www.rhdjapan.com/super-now-su...set-fd3s-51432
The seems to move the location of the inboard most point of the lower control arm depending on the way the bushing is pressed in. Is this just for the front most bushing on the lower arm OR both front and rear? My concern from looking at the diagram below, the rear portion of the subframe where the arm mounts doesn't allow for outboard movement of the arm.
Can I make a similar bushing with delrin plastic to push the whole are further outboard. This should add significant camber.
I am looking for an affordable way to pick up another 0.5* negative camber. The JDm upper A-Arms are uber amounts of money I don't want to spend. Thanks in advance for your help!
Just found these: http://www.rhdjapan.com/super-now-su...set-fd3s-51432
The seems to move the location of the inboard most point of the lower control arm depending on the way the bushing is pressed in. Is this just for the front most bushing on the lower arm OR both front and rear? My concern from looking at the diagram below, the rear portion of the subframe where the arm mounts doesn't allow for outboard movement of the arm.
Can I make a similar bushing with delrin plastic to push the whole are further outboard. This should add significant camber.
06-14-10, 12:45 PM
#6
Since I have heard from various sources that FD sacrifices caster for neg camber (shown above in black) and visa versa, I assume that the rear inside point is fixed, the front inside is adjustable. (however, the parts diagram looks like the inside rear point has an eccentric bolt - confused)
If the above referenced bushing adjusts the rear inside location further outside, the gains would be significant (shown in red). This will increase negative camber and maintain caster.
If, however, it is in place of the front inside bushing, it may add more neg camber at the further expense of caster.
Anyone familiar with this bushing's installed location?
If the above referenced bushing adjusts the rear inside location further outside, the gains would be significant (shown in red). This will increase negative camber and maintain caster.
If, however, it is in place of the front inside bushing, it may add more neg camber at the further expense of caster.
Anyone familiar with this bushing's installed location?
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06-14-10, 04:53 PM
#8
Rotary Freak
The common mod here is slotting the subframe mounts, not a 5 minute job.
Haven't put it to the test myself, there are reports of the early subframes having less camber standard than later versions....should turn up in a parts number comparison if it's true - at least it should work out cheaper than ecccentrics from Japan.
Haven't put it to the test myself, there are reports of the early subframes having less camber standard than later versions....should turn up in a parts number comparison if it's true - at least it should work out cheaper than ecccentrics from Japan.
06-15-10, 09:15 AM
#9
The common mod here is slotting the subframe mounts, not a 5 minute job.
Haven't put it to the test myself, there are reports of the early subframes having less camber standard than later versions....should turn up in a parts number comparison if it's true - at least it should work out cheaper than ecccentrics from Japan.
Haven't put it to the test myself, there are reports of the early subframes having less camber standard than later versions....should turn up in a parts number comparison if it's true - at least it should work out cheaper than ecccentrics from Japan.
06-16-10, 04:11 PM
#10
Rotary Freak
The nylon sounds like the easiest option if you can keep the lubrication up to it.
Had a quick look at that other info, no mention if it was done professionally or just using a plumb bob....on a sloping surface
, early subframe reported as giving about 2.5 max, others are mentioning 3.5 on the later.....
Had a quick look at that other info, no mention if it was done professionally or just using a plumb bob....on a sloping surface
, early subframe reported as giving about 2.5 max, others are mentioning 3.5 on the later.....
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