Yup, but there's no kit for this car so you'd have to fab your own brackets to mount the extra calpers someplace and rig up the cableing.

The kit is $1k too, so figure you're in for an expense as large as the new rear brakes in the first place to make this work.

 

Andrew hit me up. I'm placing an RB order tomorrow and if I add your order it will cover freight to Norcal and then I can ship to socal with discounted shipping.

PM me a link to which "rotor" option you want.

Let me know,

Rishie

 

I figured it was appropriate to bring this back from the dead and ask for some input/help. It is 9/11 and all

Finally installed the RB full BBK tonight. Looks impressive thus far. Hope to beat them up at the end of the month if everything goes as planned (Buttonwillow Raceway (SoCal). I'm running the Gen1 kit which requires slight grinding work on the front spindles..... specifically the mounting hole bosses where the rotor surface travels for clearance.

Question #1: Are shims required as well? I sifted thru 25 pages or so of this thread and wasn't clear on it. I ground down enuf where there is sufficent clearance.

Question #2: On the rears I have the factory (2) spring clips on the brake pads that assist in keeping them off the rotor; however with them on it is a PITA to get the top sliding caliper retainer bolt to mate up with its threaded counterpart. With them off the top sliding bolt easily goes in. Anyone else encounter this?

Question #3:
Who is running a 929 Master Cylinder? I know Hyperion is. Anybody else? I'm at the stage where it isn't a big deal to do it. I will be taxing them with around 550rwhp so I want them to be above par and perform top notch. People that have actually raced them on a track please chime in on this question.

Thanks guys! Goal is to have this biatch driveable by 9/25!

Project link: widebody FD with dry sump LS7 (550rwhp+ n/a on 91 octane)
https://www.rx7club.com/v-8-powered-rx-7s-299/ls7-drysump-widebody-fd-project-8-23-08-a-781502/

 

I also had to play with the 2 retaining bolts to get them to attach properly. I don't think it is due to the spring clips. I was only using one clip and still had some issues. I think I had to attach the top one first w/o clips and then was able to get the bottom bolt on.

Also make sure you are inserting the correct bolt in the correct location (top or bottom).

Let me know if you need an hand with anything.

 

************************************************** **************

I have the V.2 so can't answer Q1.

With respect to Q2, the clips should not be a problem- something else is amiss. I had problems with getting the threads to line up on the retainer bolts and eventually ran a drill bit (by hand) into the slot to clean out the crap, then replaced the rubber o-rings on the retainer bolts because they had gotten distorted. After that, no problems.

Finally, I have the 929 MC. I installed it because I had too much pedal travel from the larger front calipers which had the effect of making the brakes feel mushy. The new MC made a nice difference and now the pedal feels just like stock but the brakes work much better. Just be careful not to get air into the lines as it is a bitch to bleed after a MC change due to the ABS modules.

Rick

 

FYI - I'm running the 929 master cylinder also.

 

I might be missing something - can someone show me a picture of the rear brake springs? I don't have any - and I'm pretty sure they are contributing to my noisy brakes....

 

Hey Bobby,
They are most definitely causing the noise

I call them V clips/springs but I'm not sure about the exact name. You place the little V clip between the pads by sliding them into the holes (holes on the back side of each backing plate) of each backing plate. If you'd like a pair send 15 to: fritzandmorgen@earthlink.net and I'll ship them out you. If someone could post up a pic you could probably make some.

Thanks,
Fritz

 

^^^

I made some out of a coat hanger once, and they vaporized :-)

 

<snip>
I also changed to the 929 master. Remember though that it is not free, what you gain in pedal travel you have to make up in input pressure.

Depending on pads and tires (and the track) you may actually have to push harder than you can to hit max decel, especially in a race situation where you have to run for 40 minutes or 2 hours or 24 hours.

At one point I had a input pressure requirement of close to 100 lbs in my system, which is fine for a TT lap, but isn't sustainable. With the new DTC pads my pressures are down to a much more reasonable 80-85 lbs.

I'm still working on my big DTC summary post.

 

No shim is required.

You may also want to check with Gooroo for the motorpsorts pads he used.

 

For those running ET500 rear pads (RacingBrake brand) did you have to grind away pad material to get them to fit? I have them in place.... however the rotor won't move 1 bit as the pads are fully compressed on them. Seems to be too much pad material.

I swapped in some slightly used stock pads and the rotors turned effortlessly.

Hyperion- I'm ordering Hawk DTC-70 front and DTC-60 rear.... is this what people have found works best?

 

Did you screw the pistons back into the rear caliper when you changed pads?

 

yes I did screw them back in place. I checked 2x.

 

We checked the rear pad thickness and found not thickness variation of ET pads vs. Hawk pads (both are 13.2/13.3mm). ET500 is the most popular agressive street compound preferred by RX7 owners and we had no prior complaint or fitment issue.

Please make the pads are seated properly on the brackets (even space between the pads after assembly with caliper.

 

I had that issue installing both the ET500s and HPS pads. It don't think its related to the RB kit or pads.

You need to open the bleeder screw and then screw the piston back in otherwise the piston won't retract sufficiently w/o the bleeder screw being open. Took me a few tries to figure that out.

 

I have had the RB rear BBK for over 1 year as it was purchased when it first became available after Howards testing.

During this time: ET500, EBC Red, Axxis ULT, and Hawk HP+ have been tested in them. I have not had any problems inserting the pads, but then I do not use the pad backing plate on the rear pads.

 

Just a FYI for everyone. I put my big summary post that I have been promising for Autobahn Here

 

anyone near the Chicago/Milwaukee/Minneapolis area who is able to get out of jail this coming (Oct 22) wednesday should consider the open track day at Blackhawk Farms.

BHF is hosting an open track day this coming Oct 22 wed. weather is predicted to be 56 hi w a 10% chance of rain.

i expect a modest turnout and the day is unstructured so you can just come out and have fun.


BHF, for those who haven't been there, is a 1.95 mile road racing course that places a premium on handling and braking. modest top speeds (around 120) take some of the risk out of the equation compared to Road America, for example, where you may be running 160.

here's a link: http://www.blackhawkfarms.com/

i expect to shake down a newly acquired PerformanceBox.com assuming that UPS comes thru. it uses GPS to generate lap times, Gs in all directions, splits, friction circle etc.

i will be running Hawk DTC 60 pads w my RacingBrake setup along w my dual purpose shaved Sumitomo HTRZ IIIs.

bring you car....maybe see you there?

let's race.

howard coleman

 

Wish the car was working, I'd love to come out and chase you around a bit. Hopefully we'll be in the same place at the same time sometime next year.

Look forward to hearing about your experience with the DTC60s.

 

I had the same issue on my rear brakes. Had to remove nearly 0.07" on each pad to fit. I think it's due to the calipers. I will be getting another set later this year to compare.

 

just finished bedding in my DTC 60 pads. holy XXXX!... 80 to 0 in about 30 feet. no noise no nothing. just everything in the car heading towards the firewall or windshield. of course it will be a whole different ball game on track but wow.

i am preliminarily liking the front to rear bias too.

i received my PerformanceBox today and should be out with it tuesday. i hope it will add alot to the wednesday test.

BTW, FWIW i run ET500s on the street. i have 3-4000 miles on them and love them as a streetpad. i have a white car and appreciate the lack of dust as well as the immediate grip level. i will definitely replace them w the same pad should they wear out. i also love the way my rotors look w them. i never had a rear clearance problem.

hc

 

I had the same problem with the front ET700s and shims, it eventually led to the rotors overheating and surface cracking, which RB kindly replaced.

BTW it was nice hanging out with you at Sevenstock, too bad my car is a cop magnet, I can't believe I got pulled over twice that weekend! You car was looking great though, I'm thinking about doing the full clearbra thing as well.

-Andy

 

1.02.8 unfortunately was not my fast lap at BHF but my temperature wednesday.

on tuesday i was making laps in my DD learning the GPS Racelogic PerformanceBox and just started shaking. i had noticed from friday on i was feeling "low battery" but just discounted it. at that moment on tuesday i knew there was no chance of being ontrack the following day. i called BHF to cancel and headed for bed. where i have been until last night when my wife dragged me into a clinic.

i am greatly disappointed as there were a number of questions that could have been answered.

foremost to me is whether the 13b can be road raced at the 475 rwhp level. the metrics from my last dyno run w the alcohol system working perfectly indicate yes.

i could go on but for now i will just go back to bed.

maybe there's a chance at Road America next Fri depending whether the event is sold out.

hc

 

Sorry to hear HC. Get well soon. Don't worry about the measurements I asked