Sorry to not follow up my older post. I actually didn't rotate the rear caliper piston properly so that it would line up with the "bump" in the ET500 pad so it would seat properly. That was my issue. I didn't get the car running by 9/25 and it is now 10/25. I took a month off from the car due to being busy at work and a little burnt out on it.

Trying to finish it here in the next couple of weeks. Lots of little crap to do.

 

well it is saturday and this is my first day out of bed. i am not liking this viral syndrome thingy.

there (may) be something postive however. as i understand it there is a satcar event saturday nov 1 at road america. if it is the 40s or better and i am still out of bed i will make every effort to go. i am really interested in the Hawk DTC60 pads.

i am going to take some more pills now...


hc

 

Hello Howard

Pulling up this thread from a 1 month hibernation

Do u know if RB is planing on building a Big brake kit for the rear, other then the stock caliper moving kit?

Im looking for something that is alittle bigger then the stock calipers. And as u allready calculated the caliper size i need for the rear for me last year. I think it's about time i implement the bigger calipers this winter. Esp now that i will get some more weight in the front with the 4 rotor engine

So do u know of any kit's for the rear. Or should i just go out and buy the AP Racing calipers i have been looking at?

JT

 

Hi JT,

it sounds like you are going to be generating some major force that will need to be stopped. a properly set up and aggresively driven FD requires more brakes than most think. it is potentially a very very fast roadcar.

that said, it is my opinion that RB rotors have an advantage over most. sure if you can glom onto a set of F1 brakes i am not going to tell you they might be an upgrade but...

i do agree that you need to go beyond the well designed but caliper limited RB rear rotor. i have forgotten, do you have a Tilton brake bias balance bar (twin masters)?

being able to reset front/rear bias ontrack is essential.

anyway my 2 cents is i would use a RB rear rotor. i like their proprietary material, and the design. the front rotor is 1.26 inches thick and is too much mass for the rear. if you could find a 13 inch dia by 1 inch RB rotor i think that would be the ticket. the rear brakes, as you know, do alot less work. also if you are gaining some front % weight the rears will work less.

keep us posted,

howard

 

Have u looked into these JT: http://www.mazdarotaryclub.net/forum...ad.php?t=52304


Same brakes I will run in the rear, only 360 in front..

Hispec brakes from UK.

They can even make u any rear brakes u wont..

 

Hey Howard

I do have a wilwood brake adjuster for the rear. Im still running stock break pump. Im looking into changing it out with a tilton or AP pedal box this spring. But i need to get the engine done first. As the current economical crises has sendt the USD sky high for us here in norway my 4 rotor build has increased alot in price.

But during the spring once the engine is starting to get ready im gonna go somewhere with a break setup. Now i can get the tilton break and clutch box for a quite good price in england, same with the AP Racing one.

U talk about the Tilton break balance bias bar, is that the same **** i have seen in Damian's race car? If so i have been thinking about using that. I also saw that he had a digital guage saying the bias between the front and rear.

I will be going with the sizes u recomended for caliper and disks. But just wanted to know if anyone builds a customkit that don't cost way to much. Well i can get the adapters for the calipers made here in norway. But would need to get discs and bell housings.

So u think the RB discs and bell housings would be the best option. Hmm might need to order that then, and maybe get the 4 pot AP Racing calipers from england. As i have a good price on them from AP in england. Just need to finnish the 4 rotor build first

To bad u live so far away, otherwise i would have flown u here and have u setup my car for me on the track

JT

 

I have been running HAWK HP+ pads with my RB setup for over a year now.

We all know that these pads are very dusty and many say they are corrosive.
They actually are not corrosive but the combination of their dust and the rotor dust will oxidize and can pit aluminum and paint due to this process.

But I have not had any such problem with my raw polished rims since changing to the RB rotors with their proprietary material. Today after about 4 months since washing and waxing my car/rims, I washed them. I was surprised how shinny the rims came out and without staining/pitting.

Has anyone else noticed any difference with their RB rotors.

 

I've been looking for an answer to this question, can't seem to find the answer here:

Does the rear RacingBrake kit fit with stock wheels?

If some modification is needed, what exactly.

Yes, I have searched the forum, and this thread, but can't get a definitive answer.

 

"...the Tilton break balance bias bar, is that the same **** i have seen in Damian's race car? If so i have been thinking about using that. I also saw that he had a digital guage saying the bias between the front and rear."

yes, the *** connects to the balance bias bar and it adjusts the force between the front and read twin mastercyclinders. i would go w Tilton. you do not need the digital gauges as you will find it easy to set up the bias ontrack, you just raise the rear bias til you lose control at corner entry and then just back it down a hair. it will generally need a slight adj in a race where you burn off 65 pounds of rear weight (gas).

it is really really worth the effort to use the above setup. maybe more important than that last 50 hp.

if you let me know your front and rear weight, your tire and wheel sizes i will give you the right sizing as to rear caliper pistons and disc size.

hc

 

i will check re the rear RB and stock wheels...

 

afgmoto1978 tells me that not only does the rear kit not fit under stock wheels, it doesn't fit under some 17" wheels.

 

U have already given me that earlier this year So i have all that. Just need to buy the right calipers. But the price will be the deciding factor next year. As the 4 rotor build is getting more and more expensive due to increasing currency prices

But since u gave me the size of the calipers for the rear the car will be slightly more heavy in the front due to the 4 rotor engine. Will that effect the rear breaks?

Edit:

This is the info from this spring Howard

stock bias is 68-32.

your 6 piston 13 inch rotor w the racing brake larger rear rotor and stock caliper is 72-28.

if you replace the rear stock caliper on the rb rear rotor w a wilwood 4 piston 1.125 caliper you would be 66-34.

w the above and a 30 mm 4 piston (1.18") you would be 63-37.

both of the immediate two above options would work w a rear brake proportioning valve. i will run the wilwood 1.124 4 pistons. i used wilwood for my 22 seasons of racing and like them... ap is excellent too of course.

hc


Quote:
Originally Posted by jantore
These are the calipers im running in the front now.

http://www.apracing.com/car/caliper/...?family=CP4340

Pistons Ø27.0mm CP4340-106 x 2
Ø31.8mm CP4340-107 x 2
Ø38.1 CP5015-107 x 2

And i run 330x32mm disks. The tires i run are 265/35-18 up front and 285/30-18 in the rear.

JT

 

After reading many of the pages (but admittedly not all 58) I still can't seem to figure out if there is an option to retain stock calipers. I'm looking for a stock replacement upgrade not a complete bigbrake kit.

 

to what i know the rotors are too big for the OEM calipers they offer, im not sure if a 99spec replacement was made but there has been talk about it. Someone with more knowledge about this will give you your answer but to what i have read, and remembered. No

 

Is there still any sort of club discount on RB stuff, or any dealers selling for less than RB's retail?

 

http://www.racingbrake.com/

it's there on their front page, stock rotor upgrade and two-piece rotor upgrade, which I recommend

 

Call Rishie at Auto RnD.

 

Have you used the 2-piece personally. Although I'm not scared of spending money, $650 is a little steep for front rotors only. They better give a SUBSTANTIAL performance increase for a 600% price premium over Brembo blanks.

 

I'm running their 4 corner BBK with the open slot rotors and am very happy with it.

Here's some more info on the benefits, not sure if you saw it:

http://www.racingbrake.com/RX7_FRONT...p/2099-311.htm

 

rich... any fitment issues with your fikses....

 

Big Gio, my new Profils have zero issues with BBK kit fitment, there is plenty of room with the way the spokes are constructed. Evidently that was one of the Fikse engineers' goals when creating the Profil line.....stronger, lighter, more room for rotors and calipers.

The older classics wouldnt work with Stoptechs or any of the other kits out there, but I ordered an early version from RB during their intro pricing and got a kit with the rotor rings mounted further inboard than normal, which placed the caliper inboard as well and gave decent clearance with the FM5s. I don't think they offer this any more, but you can call them up and check.

I say you buy my Profils (the 17s, the 18s sold already) so you can run the RB BBK

 

thanks for the tip rich... plannin on runnin these this comin season.. more track time as ive got a track in my backyard now...
hopefully RB has them still as an option or else im outta luck... dont really want to get rid of the fm5s at his point...

 

Depends what you mean by an increase in "performance". If you aren't a track junkie, the stock brakes are fine with good rotors. Only when you move on to serious track time and are burning through brake parts, do you really need more. Read through the thread from the beginning and inform yourself. pay particular attention to GooRoo's input for answers to your questions.

 

Two-piece, OE-sized rotors won't offer $600 worth of performance increase. The only reason to get them IMHO, is to have rears that match an aftermarket front kit (but don't want to buy the rear BBK), or because you like the look, or to eak out some tiny bit of performance increase in some racing application where you are limited by rule to stock size (though I would think that two-piece might still not be kosher).

 

Thanks to GoodfellaFD3SI summarized benefits of RB BBKs. They are built (in design and materials) with true high performance and look in mind. Their initial investment may appear higher than aftermarket replacements, but if you are serious in tracking and factor in the on going maintenace and overall replacement costs our kits would end up cost less. I think some RB BBK customers here can verify this.

As to the wheel fitment, due our rotors are center-mounted (patented) to the hat, not only they can run cooler (admiting air from both inboard and outboard) than trasitional surface mount two piece rotors offered by others, they also save radial clearance by setting the rotor and caliper further inboard therefore you also save wheel spacers in comparing to competitions' BBK.

One prospective customer has Enkei RPF01 17" wheelsand wonder if RB BBK can clear it. Can anyone help?

Thanks

Warren - RB