LS7 drysump widebody FD project 8/23/08
08-23-08, 08:49 PM
#1
LS7 drysump widebody FD project 8/23/08
v8rx7forum.com is currently down.... so I will post more on the car when I can cut/paste it from there to here.
It is a street car built to road race.
Basics: 1993 FD Touring model RX-7
Color:
Mitsubishi Evo Graphite Grey (Sikkens paint)
Paintwork by Noguerra's AutoBody (fantastic job guys!)
Exterior Mods:
JKL Racing GTC front bumper (fits awesome... great product)
Pettit rear flares
shaved/filled rear wiper/squirter holes
all emblems removed
AeroCatch hood locks
Shine side skirts (not installed yet)
Engine:
Built 2007 427ci LS7 dry sump motor (550-575rwhp n/a on 91 octane)
WCCH ported heads with 2.2" titanium intake valves, larger springs (360cfm/250cfm approx)
healthy camshaft 24x/25x 113+2LSA .650" lift
Lunati ProMod billet rods (1200hp rating), Wiseco pistons
ported LS7 intake, 90mm TB, 4" cold air setup with 100mm MAF sensor
JTR 1 7/8" long tube headers
Dual 3" into single 3.5" cat then single 3.5" back with electric cutout
a/c and p/s
Transmission/Driveline:
built T56, Textralia twin disc
Samberg Fabrication Cobra rear cradle with 8.8" IRS pumpkin 3:73 gears
DriveShaft Shop 300M axles/alum 3.5" driveshaft/outer forged CV cages
Fuel:
Walbro twin intank setup with Aeromotive adj FPR
Suspension:
Penske Double Adj remote reservoir shocks with Hypercoil springs- custom valved by Ankeny Racing with dyno chart
SuperPro poly bushings, new pillowball bushings
tubular/pillowball trailing/toe links
TriPoint Engineering hollow modular adj front sway bar with billet widefoot mounts
Wheels/Tires:
CCW 3 piece with titanium bolts
18x10.5 front 285/30/18 Michelin Pilot Sport Cup
18x12.5" rear 335/30/18 Toyo RA-1
Brakes:
Racing Brake complete BBK 13" front/4 piston 12.5" rear stock rear calipers
Interior:
LeatherSeats.com black leather outers/suede centers with grey double stitching
RaceShop custom chromemoly rollbar
Simpson 5pt race belts
Alpine headunit with removable 10" sub, 2 amps, upgraded speakers
Momo suede race steering wheel
RaceTrack only:
CF rear hatch with FAL lexan window, RE adj CF rear wing
Hoosier slicks
Projections:
weight 2900lbs with fuel
0-60 under 3 seconds
0-140mph in 10.5 seconds
100hp nitrous shot..... 9's@150mph in road race trim
The car just came out of the bodyshop and I didn't have the brackets to properly hang the bumper so it is simply resting with 2 bolts holds it "sort of on there." I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. I literally just picked it up a few hours earlier.
I'm doing my best to finish it by SevenStock 9/25/08. I begin work Monday on it.
It is a street car built to road race.
Basics: 1993 FD Touring model RX-7
Color:
Mitsubishi Evo Graphite Grey (Sikkens paint)
Paintwork by Noguerra's AutoBody (fantastic job guys!)
Exterior Mods:
JKL Racing GTC front bumper (fits awesome... great product)
Pettit rear flares
shaved/filled rear wiper/squirter holes
all emblems removed
AeroCatch hood locks
Shine side skirts (not installed yet)
Engine:
Built 2007 427ci LS7 dry sump motor (550-575rwhp n/a on 91 octane)
WCCH ported heads with 2.2" titanium intake valves, larger springs (360cfm/250cfm approx)
healthy camshaft 24x/25x 113+2LSA .650" lift
Lunati ProMod billet rods (1200hp rating), Wiseco pistons
ported LS7 intake, 90mm TB, 4" cold air setup with 100mm MAF sensor
JTR 1 7/8" long tube headers
Dual 3" into single 3.5" cat then single 3.5" back with electric cutout
a/c and p/s
Transmission/Driveline:
built T56, Textralia twin disc
Samberg Fabrication Cobra rear cradle with 8.8" IRS pumpkin 3:73 gears
DriveShaft Shop 300M axles/alum 3.5" driveshaft/outer forged CV cages
Fuel:
Walbro twin intank setup with Aeromotive adj FPR
Suspension:
Penske Double Adj remote reservoir shocks with Hypercoil springs- custom valved by Ankeny Racing with dyno chart
SuperPro poly bushings, new pillowball bushings
tubular/pillowball trailing/toe links
TriPoint Engineering hollow modular adj front sway bar with billet widefoot mounts
Wheels/Tires:
CCW 3 piece with titanium bolts
18x10.5 front 285/30/18 Michelin Pilot Sport Cup
18x12.5" rear 335/30/18 Toyo RA-1
Brakes:
Racing Brake complete BBK 13" front/4 piston 12.5" rear stock rear calipers
Interior:
LeatherSeats.com black leather outers/suede centers with grey double stitching
RaceShop custom chromemoly rollbar
Simpson 5pt race belts
Alpine headunit with removable 10" sub, 2 amps, upgraded speakers
Momo suede race steering wheel
RaceTrack only:
CF rear hatch with FAL lexan window, RE adj CF rear wing
Hoosier slicks
Projections:
weight 2900lbs with fuel
0-60 under 3 seconds
0-140mph in 10.5 seconds
100hp nitrous shot..... 9's@150mph in road race trim
The car just came out of the bodyshop and I didn't have the brackets to properly hang the bumper so it is simply resting with 2 bolts holds it "sort of on there." I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. I literally just picked it up a few hours earlier.
I'm doing my best to finish it by SevenStock 9/25/08. I begin work Monday on it.
Last edited by gnx7; 08-23-08 at 09:17 PM.
Not really a fan of Petit flares, but it suits your monster build.
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09-04-08, 07:57 PM
#9
progress:
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx-7-bu...-5-08-a-8.html
Motor/clutch/trans is installed. Now working on electrical/cooling/exhaust etc. Basically everything
I'll be doing some track days and then racing with NASA in their TimeTrial group. TTU or TTR whichever one my car is allowed to run in.
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx-7-bu...-5-08-a-8.html
Motor/clutch/trans is installed. Now working on electrical/cooling/exhaust etc. Basically everything
I'll be doing some track days and then racing with NASA in their TimeTrial group. TTU or TTR whichever one my car is allowed to run in.
09-09-08, 08:10 AM
#10
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: ames, iowa
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what offset are those ccw's in the rear? more of a if you add the flares does it change the offset you use or is it still +45 to +50 used in the back just u use 12-12.5" wide wheels rather than 10" wide?? just a lil info?
09-13-08, 05:00 PM
#14
More updates:
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx-7-bu...5-08-a-10.html
My engine makes about the same as the LS9 and has connecting rods rated at 1200hp. If I need more power I'll just spray it. It should make around 650hp flywheel.
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx-7-bu...5-08-a-10.html
My engine makes about the same as the LS9 and has connecting rods rated at 1200hp. If I need more power I'll just spray it. It should make around 650hp flywheel.
10-10-08, 10:33 AM
#19
Towed it down to SevenStock; however wasn't running yet. Too much to complete and some wrong parts were the culprit. Will be running in the next couple of weeks. Have a track day November 10th at Laguna Seca
JKL Racing GTC replica front bumper (makes Pettit bumper look like a joke) fits perfectly with huge inlets for gobs of air.
RaceShop chrommoly (sp?) rollbar
Driveshaft Shop 3.5" Cobra/T56 driveshaft with Spicer 1350 Ujoints, custom forged Cobra inner stub axles with 300M forged axles, and forged outer CV cages
Built the dual stainless steel 3" into 3" Random Technology cats, Burns 3" Ypipe into 3.5" single exhaust all the way back in the garage with a friend. Plan to make 550rwhp+ thru this setup.
Still have to complete fuel, cooling, oiling (dry sump lines/cooler/tank) systems and other misc parts.
JKL Racing GTC replica front bumper (makes Pettit bumper look like a joke) fits perfectly with huge inlets for gobs of air.
RaceShop chrommoly (sp?) rollbar
Driveshaft Shop 3.5" Cobra/T56 driveshaft with Spicer 1350 Ujoints, custom forged Cobra inner stub axles with 300M forged axles, and forged outer CV cages
Built the dual stainless steel 3" into 3" Random Technology cats, Burns 3" Ypipe into 3.5" single exhaust all the way back in the garage with a friend. Plan to make 550rwhp+ thru this setup.
Still have to complete fuel, cooling, oiling (dry sump lines/cooler/tank) systems and other misc parts.
Last edited by gnx7; 10-10-08 at 10:40 AM.
11-26-08, 06:55 PM
#21
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: charlotte nc
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v8rx7forum.com is currently down.... so I will post more on the car when I can cut/paste it from there to here.
It is a street car built to road race.
Basics: 1993 FD Touring model RX-7
Color:
Mitsubishi Evo Graphite Grey (Sikkens paint)
Paintwork by Noguerra's AutoBody (fantastic job guys!)
Exterior Mods:
JKL Racing GTC front bumper (fits awesome... great product)
Pettit rear flares
shaved/filled rear wiper/squirter holes
all emblems removed
AeroCatch hood locks
Shine side skirts (not installed yet)
Engine:
Built 2007 427ci LS7 dry sump motor (550-575rwhp n/a on 91 octane)
WCCH ported heads with 2.2" titanium intake valves, larger springs (360cfm/250cfm approx)
healthy camshaft 24x/25x 113+2LSA .650" lift
Lunati ProMod billet rods (1200hp rating), Wiseco pistons
ported LS7 intake, 90mm TB, 4" cold air setup with 100mm MAF sensor
JTR 1 7/8" long tube headers
Dual 3" into single 3.5" cat then single 3.5" back with electric cutout
a/c and p/s
Transmission/Driveline:
built T56, Textralia twin disc
Samberg Fabrication Cobra rear cradle with 8.8" IRS pumpkin 3:73 gears
DriveShaft Shop 300M axles/alum 3.5" driveshaft/outer forged CV cages
Fuel:
Walbro twin intank setup with Aeromotive adj FPR
Suspension:
Penske Double Adj remote reservoir shocks with Hypercoil springs- custom valved by Ankeny Racing with dyno chart
SuperPro poly bushings, new pillowball bushings
tubular/pillowball trailing/toe links
TriPoint Engineering hollow modular adj front sway bar with billet widefoot mounts
Wheels/Tires:
CCW 3 piece with titanium bolts
18x10.5 front 285/30/18 Michelin Pilot Sport Cup
18x12.5" rear 335/30/18 Toyo RA-1
Brakes:
Racing Brake complete BBK 13" front/4 piston 12.5" rear stock rear calipers
Interior:
LeatherSeats.com black leather outers/suede centers with grey double stitching
RaceShop custom chromemoly rollbar
Simpson 5pt race belts
Alpine headunit with removable 10" sub, 2 amps, upgraded speakers
Momo suede race steering wheel
RaceTrack only:
CF rear hatch with FAL lexan window, RE adj CF rear wing
Hoosier slicks
Projections:
weight 2900lbs with fuel
0-60 under 3 seconds
0-140mph in 10.5 seconds
100hp nitrous shot..... 9's@150mph in road race trim
The car just came out of the bodyshop and I didn't have the brackets to properly hang the bumper so it is simply resting with 2 bolts holds it "sort of on there." I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. I literally just picked it up a few hours earlier.
MG]
It is a street car built to road race.
Basics: 1993 FD Touring model RX-7
Color:
Mitsubishi Evo Graphite Grey (Sikkens paint)
Paintwork by Noguerra's AutoBody (fantastic job guys!)
Exterior Mods:
JKL Racing GTC front bumper (fits awesome... great product)
Pettit rear flares
shaved/filled rear wiper/squirter holes
all emblems removed
AeroCatch hood locks
Shine side skirts (not installed yet)
Engine:
Built 2007 427ci LS7 dry sump motor (550-575rwhp n/a on 91 octane)
WCCH ported heads with 2.2" titanium intake valves, larger springs (360cfm/250cfm approx)
healthy camshaft 24x/25x 113+2LSA .650" lift
Lunati ProMod billet rods (1200hp rating), Wiseco pistons
ported LS7 intake, 90mm TB, 4" cold air setup with 100mm MAF sensor
JTR 1 7/8" long tube headers
Dual 3" into single 3.5" cat then single 3.5" back with electric cutout
a/c and p/s
Transmission/Driveline:
built T56, Textralia twin disc
Samberg Fabrication Cobra rear cradle with 8.8" IRS pumpkin 3:73 gears
DriveShaft Shop 300M axles/alum 3.5" driveshaft/outer forged CV cages
Fuel:
Walbro twin intank setup with Aeromotive adj FPR
Suspension:
Penske Double Adj remote reservoir shocks with Hypercoil springs- custom valved by Ankeny Racing with dyno chart
SuperPro poly bushings, new pillowball bushings
tubular/pillowball trailing/toe links
TriPoint Engineering hollow modular adj front sway bar with billet widefoot mounts
Wheels/Tires:
CCW 3 piece with titanium bolts
18x10.5 front 285/30/18 Michelin Pilot Sport Cup
18x12.5" rear 335/30/18 Toyo RA-1
Brakes:
Racing Brake complete BBK 13" front/4 piston 12.5" rear stock rear calipers
Interior:
LeatherSeats.com black leather outers/suede centers with grey double stitching
RaceShop custom chromemoly rollbar
Simpson 5pt race belts
Alpine headunit with removable 10" sub, 2 amps, upgraded speakers
Momo suede race steering wheel
RaceTrack only:
CF rear hatch with FAL lexan window, RE adj CF rear wing
Hoosier slicks
Projections:
weight 2900lbs with fuel
0-60 under 3 seconds
0-140mph in 10.5 seconds
100hp nitrous shot..... 9's@150mph in road race trim
The car just came out of the bodyshop and I didn't have the brackets to properly hang the bumper so it is simply resting with 2 bolts holds it "sort of on there." I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. I literally just picked it up a few hours earlier.
MG]
09-15-09, 11:12 PM
#23
Started a business and have been working my *** off. Sevenstock approaching time to finally finish the car. I really haven't worked on it since last year Sevenstock up until about a month ago.
Gettin' closer.... Mike is coming over to help me with the electrical aspect tonight which I hate doing.
The intake setup still needs a little tweaking; however the concept is there. Still need to cut a rubber hose and run it around the aluminum radiator top plate so that it doesn't rub thru the silicone hose.
I'm running a Taurus fan, Howe dual pass radiator, Evan NPG zero pressure coolant, and about the straightest air shot to the intake/TB you can achieve. Hood clearance is good.... but close. TB is a ported 90mm Edelbrock unit that has approx a 92/93mm opening tapering down to a 90mm blade. The mounting base of the TB has been milled downwards to create a 3* angle drop for better hood clearance. Thank you Sean for the hookup! (anyone needing their TB's ported it is $50. The machinist does work for Lawrence Livermore Labs Research Facility... nuclear etc...).
After I TIG welded the exhaust closed (it was tacked before) it moved a little from the heat and at the collector I need to redo one side. That shouldn't take too long. I have a Miller TIG Diversion model that is portable and can be carried with 1 arm! Probably weighs 50lbs. Does a kick *** job! Very stoked on this purchase. Turned out nice for my 1st project.
So the list is getting shorter... Getting pretty excited to fire this thing up! The parts collection is spanning over 2 years!
Gettin' closer.... Mike is coming over to help me with the electrical aspect tonight which I hate doing.
The intake setup still needs a little tweaking; however the concept is there. Still need to cut a rubber hose and run it around the aluminum radiator top plate so that it doesn't rub thru the silicone hose.
I'm running a Taurus fan, Howe dual pass radiator, Evan NPG zero pressure coolant, and about the straightest air shot to the intake/TB you can achieve. Hood clearance is good.... but close. TB is a ported 90mm Edelbrock unit that has approx a 92/93mm opening tapering down to a 90mm blade. The mounting base of the TB has been milled downwards to create a 3* angle drop for better hood clearance. Thank you Sean for the hookup! (anyone needing their TB's ported it is $50. The machinist does work for Lawrence Livermore Labs Research Facility... nuclear etc...).
After I TIG welded the exhaust closed (it was tacked before) it moved a little from the heat and at the collector I need to redo one side. That shouldn't take too long. I have a Miller TIG Diversion model that is portable and can be carried with 1 arm! Probably weighs 50lbs. Does a kick *** job! Very stoked on this purchase. Turned out nice for my 1st project.
So the list is getting shorter... Getting pretty excited to fire this thing up! The parts collection is spanning over 2 years!
09-15-09, 11:14 PM
#24
Some pics of the exhaust. Dual 3" from the collectors into Random Technology 3" cats (the Samberg trans mount provides gobs of room over the Hinson one and structurally provides a ton more bracing), then a Burns 3" to 4" "Y" that was butterfly cut down to a 3.5" section in the rear (my buddy Chris Coffey did this). The 3.5" then goes to a Magnaflow muffler which should sound good. If it is too loud there is a long straight section in the middle to cut in another muffler if needed.
When the two ends are butted up next to each other it is pretty simple to weld and you don't really need to use any filler rod with the TIG. When there is a gap and one needs to use a lot of filler rod is when it gets a bit tricky. But for my 1st time I'm happy with it. Blew a few holes in it, but repaired them and learned the signs of when a hole starts and to back off the foot pedal. TIG welding is actually kind of relaxing?!?!?
Still need to weld in a 3.5" Vband where the mid section is and then move over the drivers side exhaust about 1/2" (cut/slice/weld) where it meets the header collector. 10 days left until Sevenstock. It will be driving down.
When the two ends are butted up next to each other it is pretty simple to weld and you don't really need to use any filler rod with the TIG. When there is a gap and one needs to use a lot of filler rod is when it gets a bit tricky. But for my 1st time I'm happy with it. Blew a few holes in it, but repaired them and learned the signs of when a hole starts and to back off the foot pedal. TIG welding is actually kind of relaxing?!?!?
Still need to weld in a 3.5" Vband where the mid section is and then move over the drivers side exhaust about 1/2" (cut/slice/weld) where it meets the header collector. 10 days left until Sevenstock. It will be driving down.