FD New Brake Options
Just so y'all know, the following is from the RacingBrake website, developement forum, HC RX7, it looks like we are getting closer to the "order" date.....we all need to be patient, they know what they are doing, but it does take time.........personally, i cant wait either....
"The front rotor will be 332mm (13”). We estimate the package price (front and rear kit) to be around $2,650 plus the brake pads of your choice. The brake pads used in our front BBK is a standard racing pad (RB P/N PDS110)
http://www.racingbrake.com/RacingBra...per_s/4346.htm
It doesn’t require any modification on Hawk pad, RB racing compound are also available."
"The front rotor will be 332mm (13”). We estimate the package price (front and rear kit) to be around $2,650 plus the brake pads of your choice. The brake pads used in our front BBK is a standard racing pad (RB P/N PDS110)
http://www.racingbrake.com/RacingBra...per_s/4346.htm
It doesn’t require any modification on Hawk pad, RB racing compound are also available."
This may seem pointless to every one else but can I get my rear factory calipers color matched to the front? And just for clarity: The kit comes with 4 rotors, 4 hats, 2 calipers, 4 SS brake lines, full set of pads, & 4 brackets.
mike
mike
Originally Posted by wptrx7
Just to make sure, these will only clear some 17" wheels (17 minimum required)?
I'm praying for 16-inch wheels with a little filing . . .
:-) neil
Full Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: nj
Just to keep you informed here are our latest development on BBK:
This front kit is pending to our 4-piston calipers to be completed within 2 weeks.
http://www.racingbrake.com/RX7_FRONT_93_95_p/2105-311-4001.htm
This rear kit is now completed with needed longer brackets.
http://www.racingbrake.com/RX7_REAR_93_95_p/2107-311-0.htm
Rotor weight summary:
This front kit is pending to our 4-piston calipers to be completed within 2 weeks.
http://www.racingbrake.com/RX7_FRONT_93_95_p/2105-311-4001.htm
This rear kit is now completed with needed longer brackets.
http://www.racingbrake.com/RX7_REAR_93_95_p/2107-311-0.htm
Rotor weight summary:
This is awesome. Finally got something we can start ordering. Awesome.
I'll give you or Steve a call tommorrow to see if we can get a stocking order put together for these kits and just to verify what all options are currently shippable.
Thanks for all your hard efforts Warren, they will be justified i'm sure.
Rishie
I'll give you or Steve a call tommorrow to see if we can get a stocking order put together for these kits and just to verify what all options are currently shippable.
Thanks for all your hard efforts Warren, they will be justified i'm sure.
Rishie
Full Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: nj
Our front big rotor is being made to the same offset as OE – A true offset is figured from the hub surface to disc center which never changes regardless the disc thickness – One of the unique feature of RB two piece rotors with center mount design unlike the traditional surface mount design which affect the line up with caliper once the rotor thickness is changed.
Since the rotor thickness is now 32mm so the rotor inner surface will move inward for 5mm more = (BBK's 32 - OE's 22) / 2. This may cause interference with the lower ball joint. We have sent one set of front rotor and rear kit to Howard so he can verify the needed clearance from lower ball joint in order for us to set the rotor outwards as necessary – All these can be done as we are finishing up the caliper.
We will also add picture for the longer bracket vs. OE. The bracket comes in black as standard.
Since the rotor thickness is now 32mm so the rotor inner surface will move inward for 5mm more = (BBK's 32 - OE's 22) / 2. This may cause interference with the lower ball joint. We have sent one set of front rotor and rear kit to Howard so he can verify the needed clearance from lower ball joint in order for us to set the rotor outwards as necessary – All these can be done as we are finishing up the caliper.
We will also add picture for the longer bracket vs. OE. The bracket comes in black as standard.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,279
Likes: 728
From: Florence, Alabama
there is so much more to RB's FD brake system than is immediately apparent... but the bottom line is how do they work?
that question will be answered shortly as my RB's are on a UPS truck as i type.
the track is where we find out about what works in the brake department.
here is a post from the EVO forum you might find of interest.
thanks Evolutionm.net...
David Bongiovanni
I'm one of the people that has been testing the Racing Brake ET700 and ET900 pads since last year.
Our first outing was the 25 hours of Thunderhill in my 270 whp full race Evo. The car uses stock front calipers and Racing Brake four piston rear calipers, with bias control. We managed to run the whole race on one set of pads (using only 1/2 the pad material) and placed 2nd in class E0. We were running at a relaxed pace, and the pads worked wonderfully with no fade, exceptional life, and no noise. After the race I drove the car about 100 miles on the street and can verify other's observations that these pads are totally streetable with no noise and low dusting.
The second outing was a three hour enduro at Sears Point/Infineon. This race was run at full pace and again the ET700 Compound performed well with no fade and exceptional rotor wear. In fact, the Racing Brake two piece rotors showed almost no measureable wear after 30 hours of enduro track time using the ET700.
An Evo with stock calipers can push the ET700 past its service temp of 1400 degrees at tracks like Thunderhill and Laguna Seca, though I can attest that the pads approach this service limit progressively and give plenty of warning as they begin to overheat.
As an alternative to the Hawk DTC-60 usually required, Racing Brake provided the ET900 compound for the next test at Thunderhill. Two 1/2 hour races produced excellent results. After a proper bed-in the pads felt ready for a proper workout. They heated up quickly and developed good initial bite that became excellent at high temperatures. Modulation was excellent, as I felt like the bias control was working exceptionally well, an indicator that I was really able to feel what was going on at the contact patch.
I drove the wheels off the car, turning a 2:01.5 laptime in the 3300 lb. car, and these brakes performed exceptionally. Rotor wear was higher than with the ET700, but still lower than I've seen with any other full race pad. There was little noise, with absolutely no squeeling whether cold or hot.
I'll be driving the car on the street soon to see if they are still streetable after they rest for a few days, but I think they will be. Driving around the pits produced no noise at all, just a little gravely feel reminding you of their agressive full race potential.
Two up from me. I'll be using these pads from now on, and I can get any pads I want for free, so I only use what performs the best.
__________________
David Bongiovanni
USTCC #8
GoodsportRacing.com
link to thread: http://forums.evolutionm.net:80/show...9&postcount=11
as i said there's more than meets the eye as to this new package and one of the factors is brand new purpose-engineered brake pads. you don't just slap on a set of EBC's on this package because the rotor material is unlike any other rotors. that means the pads need to be engineered by RB and that is just what they are doing. better rotors, better pads, better brakes.
i will have a post on the pads tomorrow.
RB said they would have initial product mid april. RB is coming thru.
stay tuned,
howard
that question will be answered shortly as my RB's are on a UPS truck as i type.
the track is where we find out about what works in the brake department.
here is a post from the EVO forum you might find of interest.
thanks Evolutionm.net...
David Bongiovanni
I'm one of the people that has been testing the Racing Brake ET700 and ET900 pads since last year.
Our first outing was the 25 hours of Thunderhill in my 270 whp full race Evo. The car uses stock front calipers and Racing Brake four piston rear calipers, with bias control. We managed to run the whole race on one set of pads (using only 1/2 the pad material) and placed 2nd in class E0. We were running at a relaxed pace, and the pads worked wonderfully with no fade, exceptional life, and no noise. After the race I drove the car about 100 miles on the street and can verify other's observations that these pads are totally streetable with no noise and low dusting.
The second outing was a three hour enduro at Sears Point/Infineon. This race was run at full pace and again the ET700 Compound performed well with no fade and exceptional rotor wear. In fact, the Racing Brake two piece rotors showed almost no measureable wear after 30 hours of enduro track time using the ET700.
An Evo with stock calipers can push the ET700 past its service temp of 1400 degrees at tracks like Thunderhill and Laguna Seca, though I can attest that the pads approach this service limit progressively and give plenty of warning as they begin to overheat.
As an alternative to the Hawk DTC-60 usually required, Racing Brake provided the ET900 compound for the next test at Thunderhill. Two 1/2 hour races produced excellent results. After a proper bed-in the pads felt ready for a proper workout. They heated up quickly and developed good initial bite that became excellent at high temperatures. Modulation was excellent, as I felt like the bias control was working exceptionally well, an indicator that I was really able to feel what was going on at the contact patch.
I drove the wheels off the car, turning a 2:01.5 laptime in the 3300 lb. car, and these brakes performed exceptionally. Rotor wear was higher than with the ET700, but still lower than I've seen with any other full race pad. There was little noise, with absolutely no squeeling whether cold or hot.
I'll be driving the car on the street soon to see if they are still streetable after they rest for a few days, but I think they will be. Driving around the pits produced no noise at all, just a little gravely feel reminding you of their agressive full race potential.
Two up from me. I'll be using these pads from now on, and I can get any pads I want for free, so I only use what performs the best.
__________________
David Bongiovanni
USTCC #8
GoodsportRacing.com
link to thread: http://forums.evolutionm.net:80/show...9&postcount=11
as i said there's more than meets the eye as to this new package and one of the factors is brand new purpose-engineered brake pads. you don't just slap on a set of EBC's on this package because the rotor material is unlike any other rotors. that means the pads need to be engineered by RB and that is just what they are doing. better rotors, better pads, better brakes.
i will have a post on the pads tomorrow.
RB said they would have initial product mid april. RB is coming thru.
stay tuned,
howard
We'll definitely get something going for the community as we always do. AS soon as i get confirmation on availability and all the doo dads I'll post up the ad for you guys.
I also want to know if people are waiting for Howard's response or if they just want to start ordering. Price will be same now or later after Howie's review. hehe.
Thanks, Rishie
I also want to know if people are waiting for Howard's response or if they just want to start ordering. Price will be same now or later after Howie's review. hehe.
Thanks, Rishie
Wow, i wish I had seen this thread way back in december, but I'm all caught up now after reading (and salivating) all morning. I have yet to start any real brake upgrades (other than rebuilding stock calipers and replacing rotors with OE blanks) so this is a perfect opportunity for me to start upgrading my braking system with RB products - I am definately sold on the performance to cost after reading all 10 pages.
I have a question for whoever will answer - my car sees 2-3 track events a year, and virtually no street time anymore, but I'm not made of money. Given my relative lack of track experience and budget, would I be best served by starting with just the RB 2 piece OE size rotors, then upgrading later to the RB caliper and larger rotor? Later down the line getting the larger rear kit using the stock caliper? After reading RB's philosophy on building off the OE braking system I think i'm in the clear planning my upgrade path that way.
I have a question for whoever will answer - my car sees 2-3 track events a year, and virtually no street time anymore, but I'm not made of money. Given my relative lack of track experience and budget, would I be best served by starting with just the RB 2 piece OE size rotors, then upgrading later to the RB caliper and larger rotor? Later down the line getting the larger rear kit using the stock caliper? After reading RB's philosophy on building off the OE braking system I think i'm in the clear planning my upgrade path that way.
You can get away with tracking your car on the stock brakes, but your brakes will start to fade after 3-5 laps, or sooner if you have high HP and sticky tires. It's something that you can drive around, but for those that prefer not to the big brake upgrades are the only way to go.
My car fades after 1 lap on the stock brakes with HPS pads. With race pads it will go longer but eventually boils the fluid which results in a long, spongy pedal.
-ch
My car fades after 1 lap on the stock brakes with HPS pads. With race pads it will go longer but eventually boils the fluid which results in a long, spongy pedal.
-ch
Originally Posted by hyperion
You can get away with tracking your car on the stock brakes, but your brakes will start to fade after 3-5 laps, or sooner if you have high HP and sticky tires. It's something that you can drive around, but for those that prefer not to the big brake upgrades are the only way to go.
My car fades after 1 lap on the stock brakes with HPS pads. With race pads it will go longer but eventually boils the fluid which results in a long, spongy pedal.
-ch
My car fades after 1 lap on the stock brakes with HPS pads. With race pads it will go longer but eventually boils the fluid which results in a long, spongy pedal.
-ch
If you wanna call being located near Laguna Seca "unlucky" then I gues Hyperion has it rough. ;o)
Waiting for that bound to be interesting update from Howard. I'm looking into the SP rears to begin with then I may consider sellimg the dusted M2 setup for some SP biggins on the front end if things go well. Bravo.
Waiting for that bound to be interesting update from Howard. I'm looking into the SP rears to begin with then I may consider sellimg the dusted M2 setup for some SP biggins on the front end if things go well. Bravo.
Originally Posted by hyperion
You can get away with tracking your car on the stock brakes, but your brakes will start to fade after 3-5 laps, or sooner if you have high HP and sticky tires. It's something that you can drive around, but for those that prefer not to the big brake upgrades are the only way to go.
My car fades after 1 lap on the stock brakes with HPS pads. With race pads it will go longer but eventually boils the fluid which results in a long, spongy pedal.
-ch
My car fades after 1 lap on the stock brakes with HPS pads. With race pads it will go longer but eventually boils the fluid which results in a long, spongy pedal.
-ch
I've had very good experience with careful ducting of the stock brakes using N-Tech's backing plates, using the stock intake on the R1 lip. I do a 1:50ish lap at Laguna Seca (not impressively fast, but not horribly slow either, and my second time there) without any fade whatsoever, running stock calipers, stock rotors, Carbotech XP10's, and SuperBlue fluid, and with the calipers somewhere below 300 deg F - that is, not registering on the temperature sensitive stickers I got from McMaster-Carr. I have the stock twins, downpipe, high-flow cat, RB catback, at 10 PSI that day, on R-compound 225s on the stock rims. You do need to be careful about doing the ducting well, the flex tubing requires some maintenance from time-to-time, and it took some effort to make the intakes out of fiberglass. On the other hand, it cost me only about $350 bucks. I didn't have any temperature sensitive paint on the rotors that day, but I did with the same setup at Thunderhill, and my rotor temps were at about 1000 degrees. If I had a single turbo, I suspect I would probably need bigger brakes, but I think good ducting might be enough for the standard mods. That said, I love what RB is doing, and agree it sounds like the best BBK out there.
