You have properly interpreted our philosophy in brake upgrades. Educated consumers are our best customers. In our website we always encourage customers to read the relevant articles compare feature from different suppliers, so they become more informative and intelligent before they buy.

We always provide various brake upgrades to suit individual’s need from performance stand point; for example you can improve the brake performance simply by just replacing stock rotor (one piece or two piece) and pads before involving the rotor size or caliper change.

If later on, after your track experience is improved, then you may need to advance to BBK with OE calipers or performance aluminum calipers.

We call this as “progressive” upgrade, the same is being offered in Corvette Z06.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1593927

Not only this is a very logical approach, budget friendly but also a more rewarding experience on Motorsports.

RB is a brake company doesn’t just market the products it makes like others, rather we provide solutions with various choices and options. In fact if you go check 350Z/G35 or Impreza or the other communities you can see people are swapping used RB brakes to their fellow enthusiasts as they are advancing to next higher level and I will be glad to see this would happen the same at this community.

Thanks

Warren-RB

 

...deleted

 

Warren,

Thanks for the personal reply to my question, much appreciated. Now if I only hadn't JUST replaced my rotors with OE Blanks...

 

See complete comparison here:
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=282

 

i just finished installing the huge rear RB rotors along w the extended bracket (see picture above) and am really impressed w the amount of AIR between the rotor and hub. the rear should be run mucho cooler than OE.

i called RB today to find out whether the OE Shim should be used. I was told it was not needed as it functioned as a lateral positioning shim and the RB bracket was dimensioned to eliminate it. crazy me, i had already installed it so i measured the rotor clearance to bracket and found it was off by the width of the shim. once i removed it the rotor centered perfectly.

we are talking 1.5 MM! i am impressed.

i have the rear buttoned up and the front rotors on the car and hope to received the remaining front calipers shortly. i thought maybe i could run my AP caliper but the RB front rotor is so thick it wouldn't fit over the rotor.

i should receive my digital camera friday and will post pictures.

wait til you see the pictures!

howard coleman

 

RAWK!

-ch

 

Howard, are you going to have a camera mount in your car when you go to the track??

 

Howard, please let us know if they will work with the 16-inch wheels, perhaps with a little persuasion . . .

:-) neil

 

paul...

being on track is too much fun not to video. back in 83 i started video-ing all my races with my then state of the art panasonic. i found i could get lap times off the video that were to the tenth of a second the same as from my pit crew.

another neat thing about video was i could get section times. at BlackHawk there is a turn (tirewall turn) that leads onto a shortish straight. i always wondered if i short shifted rather than winding it out if it was faster. so i ran a bunch of laps doing each, picked out a marker at the start and end of the section and... the video said short shift.

this was before GPS which of course answers the question almost before it being asked.

posting the video is entirely another matter as i don't have broadband. i live out in the sticks. i will post lots of pictures relating to the heat markers on the rotors etc.

as to the 16 inch wheels. i spent a couple of hours on the subject. i believe the rear is the challenge. it appears to me by filing the re-enforcing ribs off the rear calipers they will fit. whether you want to do this is up to you. if i wanted to stay w the (very nice) stock wheels I would do it. i don't think the ribs contribute meaningfully to the caliper. i am also not a real engineer but i did stay at a Holiday Inn last night,

You will have to make that decision.

as to the front i can't tell you for sure as i won't have the new RB caliper for a few days. as soon as it arrives i will do a 16 inch fit for you and advise.

then i will go driving

howard coleman

 

Had not really given it any thought but it would be nice to be able to put track tires on the factory wheels...

 

That's crazy talk Mike

 

Do you have a picture of this?

 

Rob yours aren't actually factory, even though you can't tell untill you get behind your car

 

Can we get a comparison between your RB OEM sized 2-peice -vs- RB BBK 2-peice with aluminum calipers. Not just prices but I would like to decide if I should start with the OEM "sized" or go ahead and moce up to the BBK. Maybe the BBK is overkill for my current needs (AutoX) but would be needed next year for (club).

 

You're right, you definitely do not need a BBK for autoX. I know several national champions, and even in Mod classes they run the stock brakes with pads that don't need heat to get bite.

The main advantage of BBKs like this one is repeatability over multiple laps of a road course.

-ch

 

I don't think I've seen this posted----are the RB front calipers thicker than the stock calipers, and if so by how much? I have minimal clearance as-is between my stock brakes and my Fikse FM5 wheels. I'd love to run the RB BBK if it will fit with my existing wheels.

Warren, I'm local to you and PMed you a few weeks back offering to drive out to your location for fitment but haven't heard back from you.

 

hi Rich and all on the thread...

i currently have the complete RB rear kit on my car. i will post pictures sometime between fri and sunday.

i have the massive front rotors and the caliper mounting bracket and will post some shots of a comparo between OEM, the Alcon M2 and RB rotors also.

Warren did all he could to ease fitment issues in front. the rotor is as far inboard as it can go. i would suggest and Warren concurs that a fiberglass matted heat shield be placed over the steering ball joint. (at that point there will be no problem). RB is doing all it can do to be wheel clearance friendly. the front calipers will arrive in approx 10 days and i will then be better able to address fit.

i guess it's about time to throw the motor/trans back in my car.

hc

 

Howard tested the front big rotor fitment and there is still a clearance of ~6mm from rotor surface to lower ball joint so we should be fine there.

Thanks to center mount design which allows us to set in about 13mm* from the outer than traditional surface mount rotors, eliminating the need of wheel spacer and longer wheel studs etc.

RB BBK are designed to provide a sound (keeps OE disc center) set up, more forgiving to wheel and friendly (fewer components) to install.

Rich will be contacted when the calipers are available so we can test fit his wheel.

* Disc mounting tab = 6.5mm/2 = 3.25
Disc thickness = 32mm /2 = 16
16-3.25 ~13mm

 

^^^^

You should create a downloadable template for radius (top of caliper to centerline of axle), and wheel mount surface to outer edge of caliper, so that folks can print it, cut it out, and try it on the inside of their wheel.

 

Hey Guys,

First off, I'm excited as hell to see a new brake kit being developed for the FD. It's great to see companies like Racing Brake taking an interest in our cars, and I'm really looking forward to seeing some test data come back.

One of the areas that I hope is thoroughly tested is looking for piston knockback on the front calipers. Some other aftermarket brake manufacturers include anti-knockback springs in their calipers for the FD.

The reason why is that at very high cornering loads (as a result of R-compound or racing slicks) some manufacturers have detected deflection in the system that causes the caliper to move with respect to the rotor. This is very slight, but even a few mils of movement will push the pistons back into their bores. The effect of this is that the pedal is inconsistent from turn to turn, with longer pedal strokes and less initial bite.

I have no idea if this is an issue with the upright, the brackets, or what. What I do know is that it's rare and isn't seen on many other production cars. But like I said, some other manufacturers went to the extraordinary step of installing anti-knockback springs which have drawbacks like more noise, pad dusting, etc.

As Howard is a pro, I'm sure that he'll pay special attention to this during testing. It will be very important to know if this is an issue, and if so decide what to do about it.

-ch

 

I know I don't need the BBK for street and AutoX, which is why I tried for over 5 years to get a 2pc OEM sized replacement rotor from several companies. The only thing close was Project Mu but they are for the larger JDM sizes. Anyhow, like I posted before could we get a comparison of the OEM sized kit and the BBK? Not just price but stopping power. The BBK requires the aluminum calipers, correct? I'm just above 20mm on my front rotors and just changed pads, so I want to replace them when this set wears out. I do plan on moving up to club, so I need to know if it's worth starting out with the OEM size and replacing down the line or just jumping ahead to the BBK.

 

Looks like the 2-piece big brake kit is available. Has anyone placed an order or will there be a GB going for a complete front/rear upgrade kit?

 

Spoke to warren on the phone yesterday morning, very nice guy who freely shares technical information in an easily-understood manner. Can't wait to stop by Racing Brake in the next couple of weeks, and can't wait to see the pics Howard

 

I just checked out the front BBK & rear upgrade on RB's site. Are those specs reasonably final? While there's not enough information to model the system really well, I'd have expected slightly smaller front pistons. IMO, a track car with rear weight bias (Here's looking at you, Howard!) will demand an adjustable proportioning valve and/or stickier rear pads.

 

Hmm. I would have expected a piston taper as well, but oh well.

Hoping that we can get these calipers in black. It's such a pain in the *** to keep red calipers looking nice, especially if you run racing pads.

-ch