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FD caliper bridge bolt

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Old Apr 6, 2005 | 05:59 PM
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FD caliper bridge bolt

Hi there,

I accidently removed one of the front caliper bridge bolt, I put it back rightaway, but in the shop manual it doesn't mention the torque spec for that bolt, it just has a caution saying do not remove the caliper bridge bolt.

What have I done by removing one of the caliper bridge bolt? How do I put it back properly.

thanks,

Randy
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Old Oct 31, 2010 | 05:55 PM
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Bringing 5-year old thread back from the dead because this applies to me as well.

I inadvertently removed all FOUR caliper bridge bolts to the point where it split down the middle and some brake fluid leaked out. I was able to re-tighten them to 50ft/lb of torque and after flushing the system, there appears to be no leaks from the caliper, yet.

Should I be worried? Should I open it up and re-seal with a gasket solution?

Thanks,

Kevin
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Old Oct 31, 2010 | 07:41 PM
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From: In A Disfunctional World
http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual

Please download the appropriate manuals for your cars and study them before doing any more work on them.
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Old Oct 31, 2010 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by cewrx7r1
http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual

Please download the appropriate manuals for your cars and study them before doing any more work on them.
Thanks, but that does not answer my question. I have the shop manual. And I also said I inadvertently removed the bolts.
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Old Oct 31, 2010 | 08:43 PM
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Well, if you can't find torque specs you might want to consider this:
-Put the bolts back in hand tight.
-Get the other caliper (the one that you didn't remove the bolts from
-Get your torque wrench out and starting at the lowest setting (like 10 ft/lbs) start incrementing until the bolt actually turns. By doing this you probably have found the what that bolt was torqued to.

Just an idea if you can't find the proper torque specs. Alternatively, you can go to NAPA and order a reman caliper and give them that caliper as a core.
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Old Nov 1, 2010 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by kevinvr6
Thanks, but that does not answer my question. I have the shop manual. And I also said I inadvertently removed the bolts.
You're missing the point of his reply. It addresses your problem so that you can answer your own question. Had you READ the manual BEFORE you started taking things apart you would not have INADVERTENTLY removed the bolts.
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Old Nov 2, 2010 | 07:32 PM
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From: In A Disfunctional World
Mazda does not list all fastener torque settings because certain parts are not normally taken apart. This also applies to the stock turbos.

You will just have to inadvertently find the value.
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Old Nov 2, 2010 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by cewrx7r1
Mazda does not list all fastener torque settings because certain parts are not normally taken apart. This also applies to the stock turbos.

You will just have to inadvertently find the value.
I'm not sure how comments like this one could possibly be productive, at all. I never asked for the torque value that I need for these bolts.

Perhaps you should re-read my initial post. Thanks.
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by kevinvr6
Should I be worried? Should I open it up and re-seal with a gasket solution?
Bought some calipers off this forum, pedal and bleeding was totally normal. Bloke had disassembled to paint them.....ended up with total brake failure after one opened up in use - fortunately at low speed. I'd give the goop idea the flick.

If you follow some of the other brake company's recommendations, the bolts are changed out if the caliper is dismantled. A high temp loctite might be an idea too. Can't remember whether they're 12 or 10 x 1.25, in steel, the standard spec for 12.9 ones was somewhere around 57. I imagine one of the issues is the alloy in calipers gets softer and softer, so torque spec is a moveable feast......interesting Mazda does list replacement bolts though!
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by billyboy
Bought some calipers off this forum, pedal and bleeding was totally normal. Bloke had disassembled to paint them.....ended up with total brake failure after one opened up in use - fortunately at low speed. I'd give the goop idea the flick.

If you follow some of the other brake company's recommendations, the bolts are changed out if the caliper is dismantled. A high temp loctite might be an idea too. Can't remember whether they're 12 or 10 x 1.25, in steel, the standard spec for 12.9 ones was somewhere around 57. I imagine one of the issues is the alloy in calipers gets softer and softer, so torque spec is a moveable feast......interesting Mazda does list replacement bolts though!
Great thanks. I would feel a little better changing them out and use loctite. Perhaps it would be an even better idea to simply get a reman instead. Cheers!
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