KJK

iTrader: (1)

I know the exact specs that I am looking for, but it is the matter of achieving them that is the difficult, and seemingly undocumented part. Any and all advice is more than welcome.

I am looking for upwards of 8 degrees of caster, a minimum of -3 degrees of camber up front, and zero camber in the rear. I may run the front slightly toed out, but I am well aware of how to go about that.

What I do not know how to go about achieving, is a minimum of 8 degrees of caster. I haven't been able to find any caster mods, besides some pillow ball bushes from Super Now. (It seems that even most aftermarket lower arms do not offer caster adjustment)

I am also worried about not being able to zero out camber in the rear once the car is lowered. What part(s), or modification would enable me to do this? Upper arms?

From what I understand, caster dynamically effects camber (and vice versa) on the FD due to the suspension design. So how would I go about obtaining -3 degrees of camber while running upwards of 8 degrees of caster?

Exidous

All the things you are looking to change are adjustable on the FD. The caster is from the rear pivot point of the front lower A arms. The camber is done from both but primarily the front one. Your biggest issue will be whether there is enough travel in the adjustment points. For what you are looking for there may be. You just need to try.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

If I understand you correctly, you are looking to get an FD but don't have one yet. If you are unfamiliar with the FD, how do you know exactly what alignment you want/need?

You might start by checking out this thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/howard-colemans-fd-chassis-setup-723617/

There are parts which can be used to dial in more adjustments with the alignment. Check the Mazda/FD3S/Suspension section at: http://www.rhdjapan.com

KJK

iTrader: (1)

I am aware that adjustments can be made to get closer to the specs that I desire, but from the research I've done, it seems that the specs I am looking for are beyond what a stock FD is capable of achieving.

My biggest worry is being able to get upwards of 8 degrees of caster. From what I've read, a stock FD maxes out at 6 degrees. How would I go about exceeding the factory caster adjustability range? Will this work against adding (negative) camber up front (S2000's have a similar suspension design and exhibit this characteristic)?

I am also worried about zeroing out camber in the rear, since the car will be lowered substantially from it's original ride height. What would enable me to exceed the factory camber figures in the rear? I am very adamant about zeroing out rear camber, since the suspension is designed to gain negative camber as it articulates.

I am actually picking up an FD today that I just purchased yesterday!

As far as knowing what alignment specs I want, that comes from a history of other cars. I've had Miata's, an AE86, E30 BMW's, an M3, and an S2000. Each of these cars are substantially different from one another in suspension design and handling characteristics.

One of my E30's had a tremendous amount of caster (I'm unaware of the exact specs, but the strut was visibly angled outward, and the front wheels sat noticeably further forward in the wheel wells). That car was a blast to drive, when you slid it around the wheel would just slip through your hands making counter-steering feel seemingly effortless.

I had a Miata (and S2000) that exhibited very different handling characteristics in comparison to my E30's. Both of the convertibles lacked caster, and the S2000's electronically damped steering can be odd to work with at times. But both were great cars to drive, and the S2000 feels somewhat similar to the FD in terms of initial impression.

The AE86 had a live axle, which was a blast drive, and is the reason I'm zeroing out the camber on the rear of the FD. I'm not aiming to set the quickest lap time (As I know this would not be an optimal set up), I'm just looking for a car with enjoyable handling characteristics.

These alignment specs also reflect what I enjoy about driving, and I definitely enjoy sliding cars. I wouldn't classify myself as dedicated drifter, but I do enjoy the sport.

Thanks for the links, the suspension thread had some good information in there, but is more geared towards those looking for maximum grip.

I actually looked through rhdjapan.com's compilation of FD suspension components a couple of months ago, but the only part I found that really caught me eye was the Super Now Super Caster bearing set.

Thanks for the help thus far, the more the merrier. I need a substitute for camber/caster plates!

Exidous

6 is not the max. 6 is what everyone runs for the most part. You should be able to pull in 7 or so. Increased camber will decrease the max caster you can run though. If you still cannot get it you will have to run offset bushings.

Also having a live axle doesn't necessarily mean you have 0 camber(most bend slightly over time. -.5 to -1 after 50k miles in a mustang is common). I honestly don't think you'll like how the car performs with 0 camber in the back. Given the drastic geometry difference between the live axles and a multi link setup. In a turn the wheels will have a positive camber. Not parallel like a live axle. Or VERY slightly positive due to tire loading. The negative camber in an IRS is to compensate for body roll to make the outside tire perpendicular to the road for max traction.

I say take it to an alignment shop and see what they can max it out at while keeping things even. You might be surprised at how close you can get. If you want to slide I suggest a min of - 2.5 in the back. You should be able to pull over -3 if the car is lowered even a little.

jkstill

iTrader: (11)

Even lowered, you will be doing well if you can get -2.5 camber in the front with the stock suspension components.

Most FD autoxers modify the lower or upper front arms to get -3.0 of camber.

BeauNC

What works for one car does not necessarily work for another. Why not set up the car with the alignment specs outlined in the thread that was linked earlier and then make changes IF necessary? I've never heard of having 0 camber in the rear of a rear wheel drive car and the FD has a superb suspension that does not require -3 degrees of camber in the front for most purposes.

KJK

iTrader: (1)

The reason that I'm aiming for 0 camber in the rear is because I drove a significantly lowered E30 a little more than a year ago, and it was excellent in the bends, but it transformed the car from one that was forgiving to slide, to a car that was twitchy and unpredictable (Granted, the rear camber may have been a bit excessive).

Also, from what I've read, as the FD's suspension articulates it gains negative camber, so even if I ran 0 I would still be seeing some negative camber while cornering. I am willing to listen to those who have had experience with these cars, but why -2.5, why not -1?

Take a look at the video and sequence below, because it seems to me that they are both running very near 0 degrees of camber in the rear and loads of negative camber up front.

Yeah, that's what my reading has lead me to believe, but this autoxer mod, where can I find more information on it?

I know the alignment specs outlined in the thread linked earlier are proven, but I am looking for different handling characteristics than those who use the aforementioned alignment specs.

Running 0 rear camber, or very close to it, is commonplace in the drifting community. But as I said before, I am no drifter, I just enjoy a predictable ride that's fun to drive. Take a look at the video and sequence below, it seems to me that both are running very near 0 rear camber with loads of negative camber up front.

http://speedhunters.com/archive/2010...-in-drift.aspx

http://www.vimeo.com/21517602?ab

jkstill

iTrader: (11)

This is probably the easiest and cheapest method:
https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/custom-fd-front-camber-caster-bushings-941277/

The other options are to replace the upper or lower arms, with the upper arm being the least expensive option (~ $800)

You can find both easily at rdhjapan.com

KJK

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the advice, I actually commented on that thread about a month ago. I've also been on rhdjapan.com and they do have a great selection of FD suspension components.