FC Brake advice
#1
Persona non grata
Thread Starter
FC Brake advice
I'm taking the Barneymobile to a race shop to get some brake work done. Before I do so, help me plan out the 'best' thing to do.
Here's what I'm thinking right now for sure.
Custom dual master cylinder setup. Will need a bracket made to mount them to the firewall. Will also need some work done to get them to mount to the stock pedals. One question, would it be worth it to look into an aftermarket pedal assembly now? I could get a longer level arm that way, and effectively increase the amount of pedal pressure that my foot is able to apply. Or are the stock pedals fine?
Use a balance bar and an in-cabin brake proportioning valve. This should give me all the adjustability I need to dial the setup in.
Use the stock front calipers, rebuilt of course. Hawk Blue pads all around. Brembo slotted rotors front and rear. All new stainless line from the master cylinder to the fronts. Use the stock metal line to the rear, and stainless from the fenderwell to the caliper on rear.
Rear calipers are still up in the air for me. I want to use something 4 piston back there. Is it possible to mount up front calipers on the rear? The fronts sit on the back of the rotor, the rears sit on the front of the rotor. Is that a problem or not? With the balance bar/proportioning valve I can adjust and get the most out of the bigger rear calipers ... plus with my 550 lb/inch front and 350 lb/inch rear springs there won't be near as much weight transfer to the front, so the rears will be able to do more work.
If somebody with knowledge could give me advice, specifically on the rear caliper setup, I'd appreciate it. Once I get this done, everthing from the shocks down is DONE!
Here's what I'm thinking right now for sure.
Custom dual master cylinder setup. Will need a bracket made to mount them to the firewall. Will also need some work done to get them to mount to the stock pedals. One question, would it be worth it to look into an aftermarket pedal assembly now? I could get a longer level arm that way, and effectively increase the amount of pedal pressure that my foot is able to apply. Or are the stock pedals fine?
Use a balance bar and an in-cabin brake proportioning valve. This should give me all the adjustability I need to dial the setup in.
Use the stock front calipers, rebuilt of course. Hawk Blue pads all around. Brembo slotted rotors front and rear. All new stainless line from the master cylinder to the fronts. Use the stock metal line to the rear, and stainless from the fenderwell to the caliper on rear.
Rear calipers are still up in the air for me. I want to use something 4 piston back there. Is it possible to mount up front calipers on the rear? The fronts sit on the back of the rotor, the rears sit on the front of the rotor. Is that a problem or not? With the balance bar/proportioning valve I can adjust and get the most out of the bigger rear calipers ... plus with my 550 lb/inch front and 350 lb/inch rear springs there won't be near as much weight transfer to the front, so the rears will be able to do more work.
If somebody with knowledge could give me advice, specifically on the rear caliper setup, I'd appreciate it. Once I get this done, everthing from the shocks down is DONE!
#2
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (10)
Ryan,
Not to sway you in another direction.... but if you are running stock calipers up front with upgraded rotors and HAWK pads..... just retain the stock MC. Most of your braking is done in the front anyway so I wouldn't worry about trying to upgrade the rear brakes.
You should do all the brake upgrades yourself as it is pretty easy to tell you the truth.
ALso- Your car is sweet man. I plan to get some Mariah flared front fenders myself one day.
What size rims/offset and tires are you running all the way around?
Spend the $$$ you save doing it yourself and get some Potenza S-03 tires!
Good luck,
GNX7
K2RD.com coilover setup en route and 245/45/16 S-03's out back!
Not to sway you in another direction.... but if you are running stock calipers up front with upgraded rotors and HAWK pads..... just retain the stock MC. Most of your braking is done in the front anyway so I wouldn't worry about trying to upgrade the rear brakes.
You should do all the brake upgrades yourself as it is pretty easy to tell you the truth.
ALso- Your car is sweet man. I plan to get some Mariah flared front fenders myself one day.
What size rims/offset and tires are you running all the way around?
Spend the $$$ you save doing it yourself and get some Potenza S-03 tires!
Good luck,
GNX7
K2RD.com coilover setup en route and 245/45/16 S-03's out back!
#3
Persona non grata
Thread Starter
Originally posted by gnx7
Not to sway you in another direction.... but if you are running stock calipers up front with upgraded rotors and HAWK pads..... just retain the stock MC. Most of your braking is done in the front anyway so I wouldn't worry about trying to upgrade the rear brakes.
You should do all the brake upgrades yourself as it is pretty easy to tell you the truth.
ALso- Your car is sweet man. I plan to get some Mariah flared front fenders myself one day.
What size rims/offset and tires are you running all the way around?
Spend the $$$ you save doing it yourself and get some Potenza S-03 tires!
Good luck,
GNX7
K2RD.com coilover setup en route and 245/45/16 S-03's out back!
Not to sway you in another direction.... but if you are running stock calipers up front with upgraded rotors and HAWK pads..... just retain the stock MC. Most of your braking is done in the front anyway so I wouldn't worry about trying to upgrade the rear brakes.
You should do all the brake upgrades yourself as it is pretty easy to tell you the truth.
ALso- Your car is sweet man. I plan to get some Mariah flared front fenders myself one day.
What size rims/offset and tires are you running all the way around?
Spend the $$$ you save doing it yourself and get some Potenza S-03 tires!
Good luck,
GNX7
K2RD.com coilover setup en route and 245/45/16 S-03's out back!
Like I said, with my springs, the rears will do a LOT more braking than they would otherwise. So I believe that upgrading the rears will be beneficial. So can anybody answer my questions?
1) Will the front calipers work if mounted on the front of the rotor as opposed to the back of the rotor?
2) Does anybody know of any good aftermarket calipers that will bolt up to the rear relatively easily?
3) Should I consider an aftermarket pedal assembly or stick with stock?
4) Am I insane?
I know how to mount the MC's, but I just don't have the facilities to make a bracket, make custom SS line, and all the little bits of fabrication that are required.
Thanks for the compliments. I have a set of Fikse FM/10's that I bought from Rishie. Got 17x8.5 front and 9.5 rear. 37.5 mm offset for both. Then I'm using a 15mm studded spacer for the fronts. I'm going to run 245/40/17 Hoosier R3S03's all around for this season. I can get them cheap used from racetire.com. Then next season, I'll probably use 245 front and 265 rear.
#4
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Will that work with the stock booster? If not, then yeah, I'd want a longer pedal to help.
I don't see any technical reason why you can't run the 4 pot brakes on the rear, other than it will be too much brake for the rear.. I know you've gone to 550 front springs, but still, I just can't see having that much braking in the rear without some monster brakes up front.
And specifically, running the caliper on the front of the rotor instead of the rear, I don't see a problem with that.
I don't see any technical reason why you can't run the 4 pot brakes on the rear, other than it will be too much brake for the rear.. I know you've gone to 550 front springs, but still, I just can't see having that much braking in the rear without some monster brakes up front.
And specifically, running the caliper on the front of the rotor instead of the rear, I don't see a problem with that.
Last edited by Silkworm; 05-17-02 at 09:22 AM.
#5
Persona non grata
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Silkworm
Will that work with the stock booster? If not, then yeah, I'd want a longer pedal to help.
I don't see any technical reason why you can't run the 4 pot brakes on the rear, other than it will be too much brake for the rear.. I know you've gone to 550 front springs, but still, I just can't see having that much braking in the rear without some monster brakes up front.
And specifically, running the caliper on the front of the rotor instead of the rear, I don't see a problem with that.
Will that work with the stock booster? If not, then yeah, I'd want a longer pedal to help.
I don't see any technical reason why you can't run the 4 pot brakes on the rear, other than it will be too much brake for the rear.. I know you've gone to 550 front springs, but still, I just can't see having that much braking in the rear without some monster brakes up front.
And specifically, running the caliper on the front of the rotor instead of the rear, I don't see a problem with that.
I know it's a lot of brake for the rear, but I have the adjustability to make it work.
#6
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (10)
what size and offset rim and what size tires do you plan to run on your car with the front flares? I have heard a 255/17 will fit up front?
You are also aware that a 929 M/C will work... but you need to bend up a new brake line at the same time.
I didn't realize your car was track only.... but with those spring rates I should've guessed.
-GNX7
You are also aware that a 929 M/C will work... but you need to bend up a new brake line at the same time.
I didn't realize your car was track only.... but with those spring rates I should've guessed.
-GNX7
#7
Persona non grata
Thread Starter
I guess you didn't see above where I said my wheel/tires sizes. Check again
Not interested in a 929 MC. If I'm going to take the time and effort to do this, I'm doing it all out dammit!
I wish I could drive a car with a dual MC setup and feel the pedal.
Not interested in a 929 MC. If I'm going to take the time and effort to do this, I'm doing it all out dammit!
I wish I could drive a car with a dual MC setup and feel the pedal.
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#8
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (10)
zoinks.... I must be blind. I didn't see your wheel/tire reply.
I think the 245/17 will be sweet!
Not trying to pester you... but it is hard to get an answer from anyone wanting to go to extreme tire sizes....
Would a 255/17 fit up front in your opinion and a 275/17 out back (roll fender lip) on the proper offset rim and not cause any problems? I'm running coil overs and plan to get the Mariah Motorsports front fender flares in 2003 with some sick rims.
GNX7
I think the 245/17 will be sweet!
Not trying to pester you... but it is hard to get an answer from anyone wanting to go to extreme tire sizes....
Would a 255/17 fit up front in your opinion and a 275/17 out back (roll fender lip) on the proper offset rim and not cause any problems? I'm running coil overs and plan to get the Mariah Motorsports front fender flares in 2003 with some sick rims.
GNX7
#11
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Feb 2001
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You want Brembo slotted rotors? Try this site. http://www.alamomotorsports.com/kvrrotors_mazda.html
I bought these and when I opened the box from this store, half the rotors were in Brembo boxes taped from the factory. Brembo, not KVR. I guess Alamo MotorSports sells KVR parts and the in turn get their rotors from Brembo. Simple, no? I was pleasantly pleased considering these prices were very good. The other two rotors were in boxes that looked like some generic brand (at least I never heard of it if I could remember the name). Despite the boxes, they were perfect matches to the ones from Brembo. Good enough for me!
jerk_racer@hotmail.com
I bought these and when I opened the box from this store, half the rotors were in Brembo boxes taped from the factory. Brembo, not KVR. I guess Alamo MotorSports sells KVR parts and the in turn get their rotors from Brembo. Simple, no? I was pleasantly pleased considering these prices were very good. The other two rotors were in boxes that looked like some generic brand (at least I never heard of it if I could remember the name). Despite the boxes, they were perfect matches to the ones from Brembo. Good enough for me!
jerk_racer@hotmail.com
#12
10 lb. boost, 5lb. bag
iTrader: (1)
I know this isn't really a good comparison, but our FSAE car used a dual m/c setup, and the brake pedal travel was about a centemeter, with brake force dependant on pressure applied, not distance moved. It was like pressing on a rock. Also, stepping on this brake pedal of doom would HAUL the car down from speed like you wouldn't believe (though it DID only weigh 500lbs+driver)
#13
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
BOOSTED 7, if you are changing out the rear brakes you should mount them inboard on the diff. This will really reduce some of the heavy rear suspension weight. It will look bad *** through big rims as well- people will be all "WTF did you take your rear brakes off for?"
Just run some ducting up there to cool those bastards off- they won't be moving around anymore so it should be easy.
Just run some ducting up there to cool those bastards off- they won't be moving around anymore so it should be easy.
#15
Persona non grata
Thread Starter
Originally posted by BLUE TII
BOOSTED 7, if you are changing out the rear brakes you should mount them inboard on the diff. This will really reduce some of the heavy rear suspension weight.
BOOSTED 7, if you are changing out the rear brakes you should mount them inboard on the diff. This will really reduce some of the heavy rear suspension weight.
#16
Former Rx7 *****
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BLUE TII, i think that only applies to a car with a solid rear axle. The shelby cobra 427s and 350s roadsters used that setup.
I don't think that will work right on a FC. but then again i could be wrong...
|-----|-O-|------|
wheels - brake disc - diff - brake disc - wheel...
damn i hope that is right or i'm going to sound like an ***
I don't think that will work right on a FC. but then again i could be wrong...
|-----|-O-|------|
wheels - brake disc - diff - brake disc - wheel...
damn i hope that is right or i'm going to sound like an ***
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