I'm taking the Barneymobile to a race shop to get some brake work done. Before I do so, help me plan out the 'best' thing to do.

Here's what I'm thinking right now for sure.

Custom dual master cylinder setup. Will need a bracket made to mount them to the firewall. Will also need some work done to get them to mount to the stock pedals. One question, would it be worth it to look into an aftermarket pedal assembly now? I could get a longer level arm that way, and effectively increase the amount of pedal pressure that my foot is able to apply. Or are the stock pedals fine?

Use a balance bar and an in-cabin brake proportioning valve. This should give me all the adjustability I need to dial the setup in.

Use the stock front calipers, rebuilt of course. Hawk Blue pads all around. Brembo slotted rotors front and rear. All new stainless line from the master cylinder to the fronts. Use the stock metal line to the rear, and stainless from the fenderwell to the caliper on rear.

Rear calipers are still up in the air for me. I want to use something 4 piston back there. Is it possible to mount up front calipers on the rear? The fronts sit on the back of the rotor, the rears sit on the front of the rotor. Is that a problem or not? With the balance bar/proportioning valve I can adjust and get the most out of the bigger rear calipers ... plus with my 550 lb/inch front and 350 lb/inch rear springs there won't be near as much weight transfer to the front, so the rears will be able to do more work.

If somebody with knowledge could give me advice, specifically on the rear caliper setup, I'd appreciate it. Once I get this done, everthing from the shocks down is DONE!

 

Ryan,

Not to sway you in another direction.... but if you are running stock calipers up front with upgraded rotors and HAWK pads..... just retain the stock MC. Most of your braking is done in the front anyway so I wouldn't worry about trying to upgrade the rear brakes.

You should do all the brake upgrades yourself as it is pretty easy to tell you the truth.

ALso- Your car is sweet man. I plan to get some Mariah flared front fenders myself one day.

What size rims/offset and tires are you running all the way around?

Spend the $$$ you save doing it yourself and get some Potenza S-03 tires!

Good luck,

GNX7
K2RD.com coilover setup en route and 245/45/16 S-03's out back!

 

Thanks for the advice. But if you can't tell, this is a TRACK ONLY car. I want as much adjustability as possible. I also want the bigger MC's in case I decide to stick some larger front calipers on it someday. And now is the perfect time to do it because I already have all the brake goods ripped out of the car.

Like I said, with my springs, the rears will do a LOT more braking than they would otherwise. So I believe that upgrading the rears will be beneficial. So can anybody answer my questions?

1) Will the front calipers work if mounted on the front of the rotor as opposed to the back of the rotor?
2) Does anybody know of any good aftermarket calipers that will bolt up to the rear relatively easily?
3) Should I consider an aftermarket pedal assembly or stick with stock?
4) Am I insane?

I know how to mount the MC's, but I just don't have the facilities to make a bracket, make custom SS line, and all the little bits of fabrication that are required.

Thanks for the compliments. I have a set of Fikse FM/10's that I bought from Rishie. Got 17x8.5 front and 9.5 rear. 37.5 mm offset for both. Then I'm using a 15mm studded spacer for the fronts. I'm going to run 245/40/17 Hoosier R3S03's all around for this season. I can get them cheap used from racetire.com. Then next season, I'll probably use 245 front and 265 rear.

 

Will that work with the stock booster? If not, then yeah, I'd want a longer pedal to help.

I don't see any technical reason why you can't run the 4 pot brakes on the rear, other than it will be too much brake for the rear.. I know you've gone to 550 front springs, but still, I just can't see having that much braking in the rear without some monster brakes up front.

And specifically, running the caliper on the front of the rotor instead of the rear, I don't see a problem with that.

 

I wasn't planning on using the stock booster.

I know it's a lot of brake for the rear, but I have the adjustability to make it work.

 

what size and offset rim and what size tires do you plan to run on your car with the front flares? I have heard a 255/17 will fit up front?

You are also aware that a 929 M/C will work... but you need to bend up a new brake line at the same time.

I didn't realize your car was track only.... but with those spring rates I should've guessed.

-GNX7

 

I guess you didn't see above where I said my wheel/tires sizes. Check again

Not interested in a 929 MC. If I'm going to take the time and effort to do this, I'm doing it all out dammit!

I wish I could drive a car with a dual MC setup and feel the pedal.

 

zoinks.... I must be blind. I didn't see your wheel/tire reply.

I think the 245/17 will be sweet!

Not trying to pester you... but it is hard to get an answer from anyone wanting to go to extreme tire sizes....

Would a 255/17 fit up front in your opinion and a 275/17 out back (roll fender lip) on the proper offset rim and not cause any problems? I'm running coil overs and plan to get the Mariah Motorsports front fender flares in 2003 with some sick rims.

GNX7

 

255/275 combo should fit. But Hoosier doesn't make tires in those sizes ... but yea, that should work.

 

What will fit in the back w/o rubbing on a stock rear fender? 255's? I've seen it around but I figure while you guys are talking about it

And btw, any places to get slotted brembo replacements for FC's?

 

You want Brembo slotted rotors? Try this site. http://www.alamomotorsports.com/kvrrotors_mazda.html
I bought these and when I opened the box from this store, half the rotors were in Brembo boxes taped from the factory. Brembo, not KVR. I guess Alamo MotorSports sells KVR parts and the in turn get their rotors from Brembo. Simple, no? I was pleasantly pleased considering these prices were very good. The other two rotors were in boxes that looked like some generic brand (at least I never heard of it if I could remember the name). Despite the boxes, they were perfect matches to the ones from Brembo. Good enough for me!

jerk_racer@hotmail.com

 

I know this isn't really a good comparison, but our FSAE car used a dual m/c setup, and the brake pedal travel was about a centemeter, with brake force dependant on pressure applied, not distance moved. It was like pressing on a rock. Also, stepping on this brake pedal of doom would HAUL the car down from speed like you wouldn't believe (though it DID only weigh 500lbs+driver)

 

BOOSTED 7, if you are changing out the rear brakes you should mount them inboard on the diff. This will really reduce some of the heavy rear suspension weight. It will look bad *** through big rims as well- people will be all "WTF did you take your rear brakes off for?"

Just run some ducting up there to cool those bastards off- they won't be moving around anymore so it should be easy.

 

my question is how did soul assasin fit these ties on his car?
275/40 R17 Nitto 555r's (front), 275/40 R17 Dunlop fm901s (rear).

 

I don't have a clue what you're talking about ... how would I mount my brakes on my diff?

 

BLUE TII, i think that only applies to a car with a solid rear axle. The shelby cobra 427s and 350s roadsters used that setup.

I don't think that will work right on a FC. but then again i could be wrong...

|-----|-O-|------|

wheels - brake disc - diff - brake disc - wheel...

damn i hope that is right or i'm going to sound like an ***

 

That sounds like it would put more strain on the halfshafts, and if you had too sticky of a tire, and too strong a brake from too fast a speed there could be a possibility of snapping the halfshaft