bk100k

To all you experts out there I have 3 questions for you. How much can you lower a 1987 turbo II? Once you lower it what size wheels can be put on it? What are the best springs to uses?

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

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pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Drops should be conservative, ~1" max, along with shocks with damping for lowering springs. I'd keep the 16" wheels to keep acceleration reasonable and retain some cushioning from the tire sidewall. Don't remember what springs have been recommended here the most. Wait a minute, you said experts only...ignore post.

liquidblackracing

iTrader: (3)

dude it all depends on what size of tires your running with your wheels. like you cant drop car as low if you have biger tire sizes like for example you cant lower a 215/55/r17 as low as a 215/45/17 because the tire will scrub on the finder befor the lower profile tire will. you have to be more exsact as what you are wanting to run. and if your woried abut how low you can go just get some coil overs so you can adjust them any way you like. if they scrub then then rase them.

Black91n/a

If you lower it more than about 1" then you'll have excessive camber in the rear that'll chew through tires way faster than normal. You can correct this by buying an adjustable subframe link (camber rod). With this I'd say the max lowering should be less than about 2".

You can reliably get an 8" wide wheel with a 225 wide tire up front as long as the diameter is close to stock or smaller. You can do it with 16's, 17's, or 18's. I like the look of 17's the best, I think 18's are too big and hurt performance too much, but if that's your concern, stick to 16's. 225/50/16, 225/45/17, 225/40/18 are all appropriate sizes for the front. Keep the offset around 30mm and you'll have a good fit with no rubbing on either side. If it's a reasonably stock TII then run the same size in the rear, it'll help keep the handling balanced and will help keep the car from loosing too much performance from the big heavy wide wheels and tires in the back and will allow you to rotate tires.

As for springs, be aware that Tein and Tanabe lowering springs do cut down on wheel and tire space in the front, so you'll maybe have to go narrower, and will definetely need to go with a lower offset than on other springs.

lchaidez

iTrader: (4)

I've been on this forum for a good while now, and have been gone on my journey to putting my seven back together (yes i know I am not made of money but my heart has rotary written all over it) and seeing this on a near comeback to my cars restoration is completely refreshing. +1

Luis

liquidblackracing

iTrader: (3)

i concur. some after market wheels you might need a spacer in the front thats what i am running. 5mm spacer with 225/50/16 front and 245/50/16 in the rear

ARD T2

iTrader: (22)

My response is:

1. Depends on your objective? slammage?
2. Depends on your objective? Wheel/Tire setup?
3. Depends on your objective? damper setup? budget?

Black91 gave you some good standard setup info. Exactly what i'd say. I'm personally not a fan of the Camber rod cause there's always a discrepancy side to side. I like the independent camber adjusters you can find at AWR or Mazdatrix, a bit more money but if you can afford the little extra then do it.

You'll get the most accurate advice if we can profile your needs. you want lip? stretch tire, run camber? GRIP? autox, roadrace, freeway, DD?

Black91n/a

Actually you have to be very careful in how you use those independant adjusters. The way they work is by twisting the control arm relative to the subframe, which leads the bushing to be twisted relative to its pivot point, which can and does lead to increased friction, sticktion and possible binding. It's happened that people have had their suspension basically lock up on them because of this. It's especially something to be concerned with if you've got stiffer than stock bushings. AWR sells some spherical bearings for the control arms for just that reason, but it's overkill for the street and will require something like yearly replacement of the bearings.

Personally, I reccomend the camber rod only, which is fine for the street, a little difference side to side isn't the end of the world. If you can afford it and that difference concerns you, get both (that's what I've got), and do the big adjustment with the rod to get you your desired average camber, then equally and in opposite directions adjust the individual ones to get the camber to be even. This way minimizes the chances of bad things happening.

ARD T2

iTrader: (22)

That's good to know, learn something new everyday.

Luckily I have done exactly what you recommended. I have both the rod and the indep adjusters and set it up just how you're saying.

Rishie