CTEK4LIFE

does anybody have any info or links on this topic?? I know it should be done by a professional but that costs $$. and it shouldnt be that difficult unless i need some kind of press. I bought some blitz type03's and they had a bit of curb rash so i thought i'd polish it out, but they have a coating on them (not really sure what it is) so the polished part and the coating dont blend together. polishing the entire lip would be tough cause of the spokes so i thought if i could take them apart, polishing would be simple.

charles

artowar2

I don't have experience with this, but here are some thoughts anyway

If the wheel is assembled as a center section sandwiched between two rim halves, then unless Blitz uses some type of unusual fasteners, it should be pretty easy to take the wheel apart.

It seems to me that the tougher part would be assembling the wheel. If the fasteners don't automatically keep the components concentric, then you have to find a way keep them concentric while you tighten the fasteners (i.e., some type of jig). Aside from that, you need to determine the torque values for the fasteners and a proper tightening sequence. Finally, you may need to put sealant between the pieces.

Fikse or Kinesis used to show the assembly of a three piece wheel on their site. If I can find the page, I'll post a link.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

I personally wouldn't even atempt it. I agree with previous post, if the "spoke" section isn't kept dimentionally centered within he outter rim, they may never ballance properly.

artowar2

I poked around the Fikse & Kinesis sites, but can't find the wheel assembly info. I forgot to mention this, but did you try contacting Blitz for help yet?

CTEK4LIFE

i sent blitz an email but they still have yet to respond, but it is the weekend. I doubt i will hear from them, i dont have much success emailing large companies. plus i cant see blitz encouraging people to take apart their wheels, they would only reccomend me to take it to a professional or send it back to them.

I dont exactly know what you mean by the fastners keeping the wheel concentric. they do not but i am pretty sure the center section will stay true by the way it is designed.

artowar2

For example, if the holes for the bolts are, say 2mm larger than the bolts, then the rim halves and center disk could move laterally with respect to each other, and therefore you would need some type of jig to keep the three pieces concentric while you tighten the bolts. But, if the holes for the bolts are the same size as the bolts, then when you put the bolts back in, the rim halves and center disk should be concentric with no further effort on your part.

I've been assuming that the rim halves and center section mate with flat surfaces, but if they are formed in such a way that when they are sandwiched, they are concentric (e.g., recesses in each rim half are sized exactly to fit around the center), then you can forget the crap I've been spewing about the bolts & the jig. You would be left with the the torque, sequence, and sealant questions to figure out.

CTEK4LIFE

thats what i thought u were talking about, yes they are made in such a way that the center section is sandwiched in so that it is always going to be concentric. I actually dont think there should be any sealant issues at all. the centerpiece bolts to a flange from the outer forged part. The outer part is completely sealed with a weld.

black99

You should pm the seller in this post(supraeater)https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ght=supraeater , he had the centers of his z1's paint black so he might know something about taking apart blitz rims.

dclin

iTrader: (4)

No direct experience, but worth contacting for more info. They have a very good rep for all their other custom work:

http://www.sabsconversions.com/wheels.html

DO NOT go to Wheel America. They are not geared to do 3 piece wheels n(at least not their Houston office). I had the exact same problem with an old set of Enkei RS-E 3-piece wheels - a little curb rash that sanded/buffed out myself, but left a distinct line between the clear coat and the bare aluminum. The spokes curved over the lip too, making refinishing without disassembling impossible.

They took my $125, told me what I wanted to hear (disassemble, polish, etc), and basically put it on a lathe and machined out the line - and turning the lip into 1/2 machine lip and the other half (under the spokes) original polished. Grrr.

Check the ads in the back of Car&Driver, R&T, etc. for other places.

CarmonColvin

I have had my 3 pc. wheels apart once. I was putting on a wider outer shell to change the width from 8" to 10".

The wheels are by a company called "Real Racing" and the design is "Pro 6". I would show you a picture but their website has been down for months.

The way these wheels are designed there was NO way to assemble them where they would be out of balance. There was a groove in the back of the wheel face that forced the back shell to center on the wheel and the same style of groove on the front for the front shell to center.
The only warning from the company about doing the conversion myself was to be sure that I used plenty of silicon sealant between the wheel parts and the resulting groove on the inside.

Any reputable wheel company is probably going to have centering grooves to keep the three pieces in the proper alignment. Just take your time and do one wheel at a time. You should have no problem.

FYI: use locktite on the bolts/nuts that hold the wheels together !! I have found a few loose on every wheel I own (6 of them)

CTEK4LIFE

thanks partstrader, yea these wheels have a similar centering design to them. do they come apart easily or did u have to tap out the center section at all?

CarmonColvin

Once all of the bolts were out (~30 in each wheel) the original silicon held the wheels together and once the silicon was cut with a razor blade the wheels fell apart.

CTEK4LIFE

i took out all the bolts and the wheels are still firmly in there, its almost like they were pressed in, (their centering design), so i'm not sure what i'm gonna do.