Custom FD rear sway bar end links (how to)
#1
Custom FD rear sway bar end links (how to)
I’m sure most of you have noticed that the FD rear sway bar end-links are plastic. Although they seem to work well enough, this cost-saving feature has bothered me over the years. It became more than a bother when I mounted coilovers with a machined aluminum yolk. The wider yolk legs when compared to stock and cheaper stamped steel coilover sets prevent the lower shock bolt nut from threading all the way onto the end of the bolt, a potential safety issue. So I set about trying to design a solution. I’ve probably spent 8 hours searching websites and on-line catalogs to put this together. I had initially considered selling completed rear end-link sets but as none of the components have to be custom fabricated, I’ll just post were I got them and how to assemble them. If anyone does decide to sell this kit, I expect compensation.
One of the biggest problems is that the shock bolt is 12 mm and the sway bolt is 10 mm. It is impossible to get off-the-shelf 10/12 links or 10/12 custom studded links for anything like a reasonable price. I went with a 12 mm shoulder bolt but bushing the link to 10 mm is just as good an option (I did this on the front – another post).
Here are the items you will need
McMaster Carr
You can obviously get this stuff elsewhere, and probably from fewer vendors but I had ordered a bunch of stuff to see what would work and this is where the final components came from.
Here is what the link will look like assembled (note I’ve got the cone spacer on the wrong side) I used the crush washer to prevent potential contact between the link and the bar. It works perfectly but you can probably find other solutions.
Here is it mounted on the left side of the car
In addition to looking better, being stronger, and allowing use of wider yolks, this will allow you to adjust out preload and to use the RB adjustable rear bar which would interfere with the shock yolk.
Alan
One of the biggest problems is that the shock bolt is 12 mm and the sway bolt is 10 mm. It is impossible to get off-the-shelf 10/12 links or 10/12 custom studded links for anything like a reasonable price. I went with a 12 mm shoulder bolt but bushing the link to 10 mm is just as good an option (I did this on the front – another post).
Here are the items you will need
McMaster Carr
91310 A742: M12x1.75 100mm grade 10.9 screw $5.11 (pack of 5)
90685 A046: M10x1.5 10mm grade 10.9 nut $8.59 (pack of 50)
92981 A402: M10x1.5 12mm shoulder screw 10.9 $6.66 (2)
Pegasus90685 A046: M10x1.5 10mm grade 10.9 nut $8.59 (pack of 50)
92981 A402: M10x1.5 12mm shoulder screw 10.9 $6.66 (2)
3066-M12x1.75-R: 12mm male Teflon lined rod end $57.98 (2)
3067-M12x1.75-R: 12mm female Teflon lined rod en $57.98 (2)
MJAM-12x1.75-R: 12mm jam nut $2.10 (2)
Speedwaymotors3067-M12x1.75-R: 12mm female Teflon lined rod en $57.98 (2)
MJAM-12x1.75-R: 12mm jam nut $2.10 (2)
5464108: ½” Aluminum cone spacers $7.95 (pack of 8)
boltdepot.com12007: M12x1.75 Flange nut grade 10.9 $0.84 (2)
Laying aroundUsed 10 mm banjo bolt crush washer free (2)
Total cost = $147.22You can obviously get this stuff elsewhere, and probably from fewer vendors but I had ordered a bunch of stuff to see what would work and this is where the final components came from.
Here is what the link will look like assembled (note I’ve got the cone spacer on the wrong side) I used the crush washer to prevent potential contact between the link and the bar. It works perfectly but you can probably find other solutions.
Here is it mounted on the left side of the car
In addition to looking better, being stronger, and allowing use of wider yolks, this will allow you to adjust out preload and to use the RB adjustable rear bar which would interfere with the shock yolk.
Alan
#2
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Awesome! Thanks for doing the R&D here. I've been wanting adjustable rear bar end links for a long time, just never had the time to really try stuff out. I will definitely be following in your footsteps on this one.
#5
No problem,
I forgot to mention that M12x1.25 rod ends are available from Pegasus for finer adjustability but I don't think it's needed and they cost twice as much.
See my Tri-Point post if you want to bush the sway-bar end and use a regular 10 mm bolt.
Alan
I forgot to mention that M12x1.25 rod ends are available from Pegasus for finer adjustability but I don't think it's needed and they cost twice as much.
See my Tri-Point post if you want to bush the sway-bar end and use a regular 10 mm bolt.
Alan
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Got my end links installed today, and I was finally able to zero preload on my rear bar. I also re-confirmed zero preload on my front TP bar. The car already feels better on just a quick test drive on the street. Feels more solid, but that may just be a result of the preload taken out (the rear bar was a bit off zero).
I used the exact same parts, except I substituted 10x1.5 flange nuts for the swaybar (shoulder) bolt, and had a thicker steel cone spacer spun by a local shop. Very happy with the results!
I used the exact same parts, except I substituted 10x1.5 flange nuts for the swaybar (shoulder) bolt, and had a thicker steel cone spacer spun by a local shop. Very happy with the results!
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#10
www.silverbulletrx7.com
This is totally awesome. I have been thinking of doing this myself but had so many projects. Just one problem. PICTURES! If possible you can e-mail them to me and I can post on my server and link here. silverbulletrx7@yahoo.com.
Again, great work.
Again, great work.
#11
This is totally awesome. I have been thinking of doing this myself but had so many projects. Just one problem. PICTURES! If possible you can e-mail them to me and I can post on my server and link here. silverbulletrx7@yahoo.com.
Again, great work.
Again, great work.
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The pictures disappeared for me too. This is weird, because they were here a couple days ago and the HTML still looks good.
Anyhow, click below:
Components
Assembled
Installed 1
Installed 2
Anyhow, click below:
Components
Assembled
Installed 1
Installed 2
#14
www.silverbulletrx7.com
strange... if I click on one of the pictures linked or paste in the html and view a picture, I can see it. Then I refresh this page and I can see all the pictures normally.
#17
FD / LSX
iTrader: (2)
Do you think the mazdatrix front adjustable sway bar links would be a good way to get some of the parts cheaper? $75 bottom of page: http://mazdatrix.com/h93-95b.htm
maybe just get a few bolts for the attachment.
maybe just get a few bolts for the attachment.
#18
www.silverbulletrx7.com
You can get cheaper rod ends from www.marylandmetrics.com.
#20
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (9)
Wanted to follow up on this thread, as I have Alan's (Adax) old drop links featured in this thread, along with the JRZ's pictured.
After a problem on track, I did some further investigating by jacking the suspension through it's travel range without the shock, and discovered there isn't NEAR enough rotational movement in the lower rod end (that bolts through the shock mount). It looks fine while you've got the car on stands, but if you go through the movement to full compression, the sway bar takes a more abrupt angle towards the back of the car, well past the degree of misalignment available. This would be way worse on an aftermarket bar with a "stiffer" rearward setting. The factory link has MUCH greater misalignment range.
The ideal solution would be to build a block for the rear of the mount that would allow you to attach the lower link rotated 90 degrees, and allowing 360 degrees of rotation, but in the interim, it needs a spacer on the shock bolt of about 3/4 to 1" to the rear.
I'll post pics of both the problem and solution once I have it worked out, but wanted to mention to those who may be using this setup as a caution.
After a problem on track, I did some further investigating by jacking the suspension through it's travel range without the shock, and discovered there isn't NEAR enough rotational movement in the lower rod end (that bolts through the shock mount). It looks fine while you've got the car on stands, but if you go through the movement to full compression, the sway bar takes a more abrupt angle towards the back of the car, well past the degree of misalignment available. This would be way worse on an aftermarket bar with a "stiffer" rearward setting. The factory link has MUCH greater misalignment range.
The ideal solution would be to build a block for the rear of the mount that would allow you to attach the lower link rotated 90 degrees, and allowing 360 degrees of rotation, but in the interim, it needs a spacer on the shock bolt of about 3/4 to 1" to the rear.
I'll post pics of both the problem and solution once I have it worked out, but wanted to mention to those who may be using this setup as a caution.
#22
NizzleMania Productions
iTrader: (5)
Do you think the mazdatrix front adjustable sway bar links would be a good way to get some of the parts cheaper? $75 bottom of page: http://mazdatrix.com/h93-95b.htm
maybe just get a few bolts for the attachment.
maybe just get a few bolts for the attachment.