matty

does anyone have a source for getting brake rotors platted in zinc?
if so, how much?

matty

also does anyone have a good hook up for the drilled and slotted brembo rotors?

DamonB

Buy your rotors plated already.

www.tirerack.com sells the solid Brembo blanks as well as drilled/slotted.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

You don't want drilled rotors...

Here's a good price:

http://turboimport.com/catalog/rx7.htm

DamonB

I was afraid if I said that people were going to get tired of hearing me

Tire Rack sells Brembo solid faced front rotors (what I recommend) for $57 each. Powerslot fronts are $118 each, rears $127 each. EBC dimpled and slotted fronts are $121 each.

So basically you can buy a pair of solid faced rotors for less than one of the others.

matty

wow thats a nice deal there. Its $295/front and rear for dimpled and slotted with the zinc coating!
I think i am gonna go with the complete kit though. Thanks.

do the cross drilled crack?
Are the dimples ok?

DamonB

Yes.

Yes, but they are not needed unless you are truly running the car hard.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Hey, preach on! Someone has to be the voice of reason.

The guys that track their cars around here all recommend slotted rotors, however they all also have big brake kits. I'm going to be in the market for some rotors (among other things) this winter and I'm still trying to decide if I'm going with the stock Brembo's or some slotted rotors.

matty

one more thing...

my front right caliper is making some horrible noise. When i push in the brake when stopped only, u could hear it clamping..its like a cracking noise. it sounds bad. This isnt the normal brake pad squek i am talking about.Wael and i took it apart but couldnt see anything wrong. Any ideas?
could this be what cause my rotors to warp? I noticed the warp after a session on lime rock. so it could have just been age (ten yrs old with 35k miles) and extreme heat. another words the warp doesnt have to be attributed to the caliper malfunction.
thanks.

alberto_mg

my calipers creak slightly too. for that matter so did the calipers on a couple of my TIIs. Don't think its anything. The warping is probably extreme heat. Did you just go with PDA?

Gene

iTrader: (1)

Is there any point to the coating? How long will it realistically last with a brake pad shredding the surface?

DamonB

The coating keeps the hub area from corroding so it stays pretty. It doesn't do anything for the swept area as you said.

Rather than buy plated rotors I just paint the hubs of my rotors with high temp pain before I put them on...

matty

no ididnt do the pds event.

I am not talking about a slight creak. when i am completely stopped and i hit the breaks or release them the front right caliper sounds bad...it is really embarrising.

Silver Single

here is something from the tech page over there.

the coating also protects the inner veins and outer edges of the rotor from rust since the entire rotor is protected. You can barely see in the pic, but if you look closely at the top edge of the rotors you can see there is rust inside the left one while the one on the right is silver coated. I know its not a big deal but the full coating does have its advantages over just regular high temp paint.

matty

anyone have any ideas?

cpa7man

iTrader: (2)

Anyone have these rotors, dimpled & slotted. I would guess they eat brake pads quicker. Slighly less rotor surface area. My stock rotors are so fugly.

If anyone has these please chime in. The price is hard to beat.

DamonB

See my post about the Tire Rack. Brembo stock replacements for $57 each

crazysuprakid

Stock replacments don't have the bling bling though! Would the dippled ones not crack like the drilled?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

That's correct.

TwinTurbo93

Well I have my drilled/slotted brembos for over a year now and no cracks what so ever.
I was afraid of cracking also but I don't do no autocrossing so maybe that's why but I do drive everyday.
I'm happy with'em, so far 15k miles.

As for plating them, get some high heat silver/chrome spray paint, cheap and will look like awesome to.

rynberg

Street driving isn't track driving....the drilled rotors are fine for the street.

David Beale

The noise when applying the brakes when stopped is the calipers "floating" to centre. You need to make sure the bolts holding the caliper to the bracket are not binding. There is special grease you can apply to these bolts as well. Be very stingy with this grease. You don't want it to get on the rotor (duh). If your pads are not wearing evenly (inside and outside pads same thickness) this can cause excessive movement of the caliper body as well.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

just thought id chime in w/ my 2 cents...

if ur a sucker for drilled & slotted, and dont wanna worry bout the rotors cracking, cryo treating them is the way to go

cryo treating helps pretty much anything withstand high temps and wear and tear... makes the rotors practically 300% stronger. no joke

hard core guys actually cryo treat all sorts of parts...trannys (all the internals), rotors, etc. ive actually even talked 2 a guy who had his engine internals cryo treated..

(KDR i believe offers cryo treated trannys, and gothamracing.com offers cryo treated rotors. and yes u can still have 'em zinc plated so they wont rust)

EDIT...oh yea. thought ud wanna know. cryo treating isn't for the broke lol. it's like $40 a rotor....

matty

i pm'ed you but didnt get a response...anyways..
Again, this problem ONLY happens when i am stopped. My brakes are completely quiet when moving. I would love to fix this problem as its very embarrassing, so:
what does binding mean?How do i fix it?
Any more info on this special grease?

thks alot.

David Beale

OK, sorry for being a bit slow. The noise is caused by the fact that the disk is not perfectly centered between the calipers. When designing brakes there are two ways of dealing with this. The first method lets the pistons "float" on both sides. Then they will "auto centre". The second method is to let the caliper body float. You will see some caliper bodies with springs in the bolts that hold them to the mount. One brake pad is fixed to the caliper body, the other has a piston - it's a cheaper way to go. We have the first type. If one of your pistons is jammed, or otherwise not very free to move (due to corrosion or dirt), the caliper will put a side force on the disc. This is the creak noise you hear. It may be time to remove the calipers and clean or replace them (depending on what exactly is the problem). You can also get noise from the shims and springs (M-spring in the manual) if they are worn/damaged/installed incorrectly or missing entirely.

Bottom line is you need to inspect the calipers or get them checked out by someone who knows their stuff. You probably don't have a safety issue yet, but there is something wrong that should be fixed. It will probably cause strange wear if you leave it this way. The grease I referred to is called "brake grease" and is available from brake parts stores.
BTW, they make this noise when you are moving too, but you probably just can't hear it over the tire noise, wind noise, etc., though it is possible movement allows the pistons to adjust better so it doesn't apply side force at all.