18,10 +48 front and rear; 265/35/18 SleepR1 help?
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Silicon Valley, CA.
18,10 +48 front and rear; 265/35/18 SleepR1 help?
Hey Manny,
I would have PM'd you this but I figured this way it could be searched. Hopefully Max will chime in as well since his fitment/Purner is the derivative for this.
Have a client interested in some 18,10 +48 wheels with the use of a 265/35/18. WIth the savings in section width it seems that it should work. Problem is the width of the wheel. Will it work. IT's only 2mm after all.
TIA, Rishie
I would have PM'd you this but I figured this way it could be searched. Hopefully Max will chime in as well since his fitment/Purner is the derivative for this.
Have a client interested in some 18,10 +48 wheels with the use of a 265/35/18. WIth the savings in section width it seems that it should work. Problem is the width of the wheel. Will it work. IT's only 2mm after all.
TIA, Rishie
Full Member
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: So. Cal
18 x 10 in the front?
That is just horrible news the turn-in on that car will be slow 18"x 10" in the front. If your customer is going go that large in the rear why not 275 at least. I'm running 18" x 8.5 +42 235 in the front and 18" x 9.5 +45 265 in the rear.
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Re: 18,10 +48 front and rear; 265/35/18 SleepR1 help?
Rishie, Tire overall diameter might be an issue, as Purner typically runs 285/30-18s on 10 x 18s with 50.8-mm offsets. As you know the 285/30-18s are about 24.5 to 24.8 inches while the 265/35-18s are slightly taller than stock (25.3 inches?). With the wheels pushed outward a few millimeters (48 mm offset), and with a slightly taller tire (265/35-18), there might be some rubbing from the tire's outside shoulder with the fender lips, when the car's cornering, and with the front wheels turned. Max will probably have better insight on this (he owns a set of 10 x 18s with 50.8-mm offset wheels with 285/30-18s BFG R1A race tires).
Originally posted by ARD T2
Hey Manny,
I would have PM'd you this but I figured this way it could be searched. Hopefully Max will chime in as well since his fitment/Purner is the derivative for this.
Have a client interested in some 18,10 +48 wheels with the use of a 265/35/18. WIth the savings in section width it seems that it should work. Problem is the width of the wheel. Will it work. IT's only 2mm after all.
TIA, Rishie
Hey Manny,
I would have PM'd you this but I figured this way it could be searched. Hopefully Max will chime in as well since his fitment/Purner is the derivative for this.
Have a client interested in some 18,10 +48 wheels with the use of a 265/35/18. WIth the savings in section width it seems that it should work. Problem is the width of the wheel. Will it work. IT's only 2mm after all.
TIA, Rishie
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Posts: 6,131
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From: IN
Re: 18 x 10 in the front?
275/35-18 would be even taller, and you'll run the risk of rubbing fender lips even more.
Originally posted by am3210
That is just horrible news the turn-in on that car will be slow 18"x 10" in the front. If your customer is going go that large in the rear why not 275 at least. I'm running 18" x 8.5 +42 235 in the front and 18" x 9.5 +45 265 in the rear.
That is just horrible news the turn-in on that car will be slow 18"x 10" in the front. If your customer is going go that large in the rear why not 275 at least. I'm running 18" x 8.5 +42 235 in the front and 18" x 9.5 +45 265 in the rear.
By my calculations, the RIM on a 10" +48 wheel will reach approx. 3/8" further in to the wheel well, and 1/8" further out (6.875" backspace, 3.125" frontspace), than a 9.5" +45 (6.5" backspace, 3" frontspace)
A 10" +50.8 should have an identical frontspace to the 9.5 +45 (3") and a 7" backspace.
Does the 10" +50.8 requuire coilovers, trailing links in the rear?
A 10" +50.8 should have an identical frontspace to the 9.5 +45 (3") and a 7" backspace.
Does the 10" +50.8 requuire coilovers, trailing links in the rear?
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From: IN
Apparently, you don't need trailing links or 2.5-inch springs in back with 18-inch wheel diameters...
Originally posted by ptrhahn
By my calculations, the RIM on a 10" +48 wheel will reach approx. 3/8" further in to the wheel well, and 1/8" further out (6.875" backspace, 3.125" frontspace), than a 9.5" +45 (6.5" backspace, 3" frontspace)
A 10" +50.8 should have an identical frontspace to the 9.5 +45 (3") and a 7" backspace.
Does the 10" +50.8 requuire coilovers, trailing links in the rear?
By my calculations, the RIM on a 10" +48 wheel will reach approx. 3/8" further in to the wheel well, and 1/8" further out (6.875" backspace, 3.125" frontspace), than a 9.5" +45 (6.5" backspace, 3" frontspace)
A 10" +50.8 should have an identical frontspace to the 9.5 +45 (3") and a 7" backspace.
Does the 10" +50.8 requuire coilovers, trailing links in the rear?
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: SoCal
Backspacing on my wheels is exactly 7.5", which it seems corresponds with +50.8mm offset from Manny's report. I measured the backspacing. Remember that 10" wheels are really wider than 11", so be careful when calculating backspacing and frontspacing from the offset.
I don't think 2.8mm is going to make a huge difference in the fitment. I would think there is more variation from tire model to tire model than that. However my 18x10" CCWs are wider than the widest point of my 285/30-18 BFG R1A tires, so I would not recommend running tires smaller than that. Cosmetically, I like the sidewalls to be bowed a little but generally straight up and down, and practiaclly it seems like you would be in for lots of curb damage with the rim edge sticking out a lot.
He will need stiff front springs (450+) with adjustable ride height. Remove the fender liner fasteners and keep the ride height within an inch of stock or so. A stiff front sway bar will also help avoid rubbing. Or you can slam it and putz the car around like a granny, but that's no fun.
-Max
I don't think 2.8mm is going to make a huge difference in the fitment. I would think there is more variation from tire model to tire model than that. However my 18x10" CCWs are wider than the widest point of my 285/30-18 BFG R1A tires, so I would not recommend running tires smaller than that. Cosmetically, I like the sidewalls to be bowed a little but generally straight up and down, and practiaclly it seems like you would be in for lots of curb damage with the rim edge sticking out a lot.
He will need stiff front springs (450+) with adjustable ride height. Remove the fender liner fasteners and keep the ride height within an inch of stock or so. A stiff front sway bar will also help avoid rubbing. Or you can slam it and putz the car around like a granny, but that's no fun.
-Max
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The Fikse website has a great fitment chart that has wheel sizes (nominal) w/ off sets and actual front/backspacing number that are great for comparison.
It lists the 10" +58.1 wheel as having 7.5" back and 3.5" frontspacing, which jibes perfectly with Max's measurements. Fikse seems to assume that all rims are exactly 1" wider than the stated size (i.e: a 10" rim is actually 11" wide). The chart is excellent for comparing withs and offsets and offers great insight as to what WOULD work compared to what you KNOW works.
It lists the 10" +58.1 wheel as having 7.5" back and 3.5" frontspacing, which jibes perfectly with Max's measurements. Fikse seems to assume that all rims are exactly 1" wider than the stated size (i.e: a 10" rim is actually 11" wide). The chart is excellent for comparing withs and offsets and offers great insight as to what WOULD work compared to what you KNOW works.
