$1,600 Wilwood WIL-140-11964 SL6R 14" front big brake kit review
06-27-13, 11:45 AM
#1
$1,600 Wilwood WIL-140-11964 SL6R 14" front big brake kit review
Wilwood WIL-140-11964 SL6R 14" front big brake kit review.
This is a 14" rotor 6 piston caliper big brake kit for the FD RX-7 for ~$1,600 widely available through Jegs. Summit and smaller vendors.
The kit arrives in a big 54 Lb box with some assembly required. Once you safety wire/loctite the rotor disks to the hats the rest of the brake kit goes onto the car easily and quickly.
The quality of components appears very good to me.
Caliper-
The calipers are forged aluminum with differential bore stainless pistons and internal crossover passages. Wilwood claims they engineer each application to work with the factory brake master output and ABS.
Changing the pads is very easy as you remove one bridge spacer (allen and lock nut) and the pads pull out the top.
Caliper adapter bracket-
This piece looks well machined/anodized and mounts the caliper with two radial studs through the caliper. Radial mounting the caliper is reputed to be more rigid and makes it easier to change rotor diameter- just add longer studs and spacer.
I was a little worried with all the "shims" Willwood provided for centering the caliper to the rotor both axially and radially as it seemed like backwater engineering going on here stacking washers. In the end their recommended "shim" quantity was right on for both sides in all positions and the calipers went on with no problems.
Rotor-
The rotor disk to rotor hat attachment looks a bit fragile to me and I have actually seen a picture of one of them broken floating around online. Make sure your caliper is spaced correctly over the rotor so you are not putting side loads on the disks!
The hat looks well machined/anodized. It is a generic multi application piece to keep costs down/availability up and uses a machined hubcentric ring to match this application.
The rotor disk is fairly massive, looks like it has some good cooling fins and the slots do not extend to the rotor tips. Its a big chunk of iron, how sexy can it be. There seems to be a $7,000 Carbon Composite Matrix rotor disk option available for these SL6R kits now. $exy
Pads-
I didn't use the pads that came with the kit, but instead used Hawk HP+ as that is the pad I have found I like for for street/auto-x and had on the car previously- so I cannot comment on the pads that come with the kit.
This is a 14" rotor 6 piston caliper big brake kit for the FD RX-7 for ~$1,600 widely available through Jegs. Summit and smaller vendors.
The kit arrives in a big 54 Lb box with some assembly required. Once you safety wire/loctite the rotor disks to the hats the rest of the brake kit goes onto the car easily and quickly.
The quality of components appears very good to me.
Caliper-
The calipers are forged aluminum with differential bore stainless pistons and internal crossover passages. Wilwood claims they engineer each application to work with the factory brake master output and ABS.
Changing the pads is very easy as you remove one bridge spacer (allen and lock nut) and the pads pull out the top.
Caliper adapter bracket-
This piece looks well machined/anodized and mounts the caliper with two radial studs through the caliper. Radial mounting the caliper is reputed to be more rigid and makes it easier to change rotor diameter- just add longer studs and spacer.
I was a little worried with all the "shims" Willwood provided for centering the caliper to the rotor both axially and radially as it seemed like backwater engineering going on here stacking washers. In the end their recommended "shim" quantity was right on for both sides in all positions and the calipers went on with no problems.
Rotor-
The rotor disk to rotor hat attachment looks a bit fragile to me and I have actually seen a picture of one of them broken floating around online. Make sure your caliper is spaced correctly over the rotor so you are not putting side loads on the disks!
The hat looks well machined/anodized. It is a generic multi application piece to keep costs down/availability up and uses a machined hubcentric ring to match this application.
The rotor disk is fairly massive, looks like it has some good cooling fins and the slots do not extend to the rotor tips. Its a big chunk of iron, how sexy can it be. There seems to be a $7,000 Carbon Composite Matrix rotor disk option available for these SL6R kits now. $exy
Pads-
I didn't use the pads that came with the kit, but instead used Hawk HP+ as that is the pad I have found I like for for street/auto-x and had on the car previously- so I cannot comment on the pads that come with the kit.
06-27-13, 11:49 AM
#2
Brake line kit-
I wasn't as happy with the brake line kit (220-10631) specified for this kit that you buy separately. This kit is a Subaru rear brake line kit that does double duty as the FD's SL6R brake line kit.
The instructions are clear enough that you have to remove and modify the metal brackets that anchors the joint between the stock hard lines and flex lines to the unibody. They state you have to machine the bracket to suit the new lines; which in reality means you have to grind the welds off of and chisel away the piece of metal that holds the "hex" pattern of the stock flex lines.
Once you do that you will find that due to the length of the 3/8-24 Inverted Flare to -3AN Male adapter included the lines will still not fit as this adapter pushes the stock hardlines back.
Hot tip #1
Swap the Right and Left brackets and then rebend the angle to the opposite direction (to match the original angle) and the stock hard lines will once again fit into the plastic body clips.
I wasn't as happy with the brake line kit (220-10631) specified for this kit that you buy separately. This kit is a Subaru rear brake line kit that does double duty as the FD's SL6R brake line kit.
The instructions are clear enough that you have to remove and modify the metal brackets that anchors the joint between the stock hard lines and flex lines to the unibody. They state you have to machine the bracket to suit the new lines; which in reality means you have to grind the welds off of and chisel away the piece of metal that holds the "hex" pattern of the stock flex lines.
Once you do that you will find that due to the length of the 3/8-24 Inverted Flare to -3AN Male adapter included the lines will still not fit as this adapter pushes the stock hardlines back.
Hot tip #1
Swap the Right and Left brackets and then rebend the angle to the opposite direction (to match the original angle) and the stock hard lines will once again fit into the plastic body clips.
06-27-13, 11:51 AM
#3
Gripe #1
The SS flex lines are really short so they won't snake around the shock like the stock ones and Wilwood doesn't provide any information on how they should be routed.
Hot tip #2
The end of the flexline with the -3AN Female 90 deg fitting crimped on should be positioned to the chassis at roughly a 45 degree angle down relative to the ground. The 90 -3AN Male to 1/8-27 NPT adapter fitting that goes on the caliper end should be clocked so it is pointing toward the shock at roughly at a 45 degree angle upward. This will provide a good "S" curve to expand and contract as the wheels turn without the top of the brake line fouling the wheel. The line comes quite close to touching components at full lock, but it does not.
Gripe #2
The lack of instructions concerning routing the brake line kit is not however my biggest gripe with this kit. More important to me is that no matter how you run the brake line kit it is a fundementally flawed design in my opinion.
The caliper uses an NPT Female thread for the brake line fitting. This is a poor solution for a high pressure hydraulic fitting. The way an NPT fitting seals is crude, permanantly damaging to components (caliper in this case) and has poor sealing performance. Wilwood compounds these issues with really terrible implementation of the NPT fitting as well.
Gripe #3
They include a 90 deg 1/8-27 NPT to -AN flare adapter for the caliper to flex line joint. You have to clock the 90 deg fitting so the brake line is in the correct possition and hope that the dodgy NPT fitting has enough bite into the caliper at that position to seal. I used a semi hardening thread sealing compound on the NPT fitting to aid in sealing while still letting me feel the fitting tighten into compression and hopefully provide some friction against inadvertant repositioning. I have seen others use Green locktite in crititcal NPT fittings as another option.
Gripe #4
Another flaw with the 90 deg adapter into the caliper is that now when a foreign object (commonly a cone in auto-x) enters the wheel well and pulls on the flex line it could loosen the NPT fitting.
Gripe #5
Furthermore, none of the crimp fittings on their flex line are swivel fittings so when an object pulls on the brake line or even whipping and vibration can loosen the fittings.
Brake line routing at rest
Brake line routing at rest overhead view
Brake line routing with wheel turned full lock in
Brake line routing with wheel turned full lock out
The SS flex lines are really short so they won't snake around the shock like the stock ones and Wilwood doesn't provide any information on how they should be routed.
Hot tip #2
The end of the flexline with the -3AN Female 90 deg fitting crimped on should be positioned to the chassis at roughly a 45 degree angle down relative to the ground. The 90 -3AN Male to 1/8-27 NPT adapter fitting that goes on the caliper end should be clocked so it is pointing toward the shock at roughly at a 45 degree angle upward. This will provide a good "S" curve to expand and contract as the wheels turn without the top of the brake line fouling the wheel. The line comes quite close to touching components at full lock, but it does not.
Gripe #2
The lack of instructions concerning routing the brake line kit is not however my biggest gripe with this kit. More important to me is that no matter how you run the brake line kit it is a fundementally flawed design in my opinion.
The caliper uses an NPT Female thread for the brake line fitting. This is a poor solution for a high pressure hydraulic fitting. The way an NPT fitting seals is crude, permanantly damaging to components (caliper in this case) and has poor sealing performance. Wilwood compounds these issues with really terrible implementation of the NPT fitting as well.
Gripe #3
They include a 90 deg 1/8-27 NPT to -AN flare adapter for the caliper to flex line joint. You have to clock the 90 deg fitting so the brake line is in the correct possition and hope that the dodgy NPT fitting has enough bite into the caliper at that position to seal. I used a semi hardening thread sealing compound on the NPT fitting to aid in sealing while still letting me feel the fitting tighten into compression and hopefully provide some friction against inadvertant repositioning. I have seen others use Green locktite in crititcal NPT fittings as another option.
Gripe #4
Another flaw with the 90 deg adapter into the caliper is that now when a foreign object (commonly a cone in auto-x) enters the wheel well and pulls on the flex line it could loosen the NPT fitting.
Gripe #5
Furthermore, none of the crimp fittings on their flex line are swivel fittings so when an object pulls on the brake line or even whipping and vibration can loosen the fittings.
Brake line routing at rest
Brake line routing at rest overhead view
Brake line routing with wheel turned full lock in
Brake line routing with wheel turned full lock out
06-27-13, 11:55 AM
#4
Hot tip #3
Make your own flex lines. I haven't done this, but this would be the plan.
a) Use a straight NPT to flare fitting out of the caliper. This will allow you to tighten the (dodgy) NPT fitting to the "proper" sealing compression and not worry about how it will affect the flex line routing.
b) Use swivel fittings on both ends of the line.
c) Route the line long in an "S" curve around the shock (like stock) with an attachment on the shock body.
These changes will allow proper range of motion and additional safety in the advent of an object entering the wheel well.
While bleeding the brakes I noticed a bit of side to side flex in the caliper. A heavier duty caliper/mounting arrangement might reduce this flex and provide a better brake feel as I would reason it is taking brake pedal movement to move the caliper. Perhaps they could employ a steel caliper bracket and a tapered radial stud arrangement for the caliper to bolt to and be more positively located.
Shown under 18" Forgeline F14
Initial impressions after bedding in the pads-
Though Wilwood says it engineers the kit for with stock master cylinder output and ABS the brake balance is obviously off as you can really feel the braking performance drop off as ABS engages. I had not noticed this phenomenon with the stock brakes.
This is of course nearly inevitable if you are set on just improving front braking.
The only way to upgrade just the front brakes and avoid affecting the front to rear brake bias would be to use a "big brake kit" that was a caliper spacer and wider rotor for more thermal capacity and brake cooling ducts for improving cooling (like Mandeville kit).
Otherwise one has to buy a kit that upgrades both front and rear brakes (Stock '99 brakes) or has a means to adjust front and rear bias (buy a brake bias adjuster).
Any larger diameter rotor big brake upgrade will affect bias and lengthen your first stop distance.
I have seen tuners switch to lower coefficient of friction front pads to keep the ABS from coming on too early in front. Eventually, I will try larger rear brakes; maybe something like the Racing Brake 13" rotor/hat and caliper spacer.
I didn't notice the ABS coming on during auto-x, but I do usually brake (just?) below ABS engagement when racing.
Though I bled the brakes thouroughly on install re-bleeding the brakes after racing released some foamy air/fluid and helped the pedal feel come back up to being the same as stock. I might go with a larger master cylinder as I really like brakes where the pedal pressure required increases but the pedal doesn't move much at all.
I did notice a huge improvement in braking feel when coming down from high speeds, I mean higher speeds than you will acheive at auto-x or in normal street driving and a more consistant brake feel in repeated stops from regular speeds.
This kit did fit under my 17" Volk TE-37 with no problems and they are the older forging with less convex spokes even. I guess Wilwood figures they will fit with MOST 18" wheels so they state 18" wheel required. They did not fit my 16" TE-37, the caliper hit the barrel where it drops down in front; if the wheels had the drop on the inside of the wheel a 16" wheel might actually fit over these calipers.
My final opinion on the Wilwood 14" SL6R kit for the FD would be that it probably isn't really necessary or even helpful for the auto-x racing I do, but it does look cool filling up the wheel.
Then again, a name like Wilwood isn't going to go as far with the hardparkers as Alcon, AP Racing, Project Mu or even Brembo- so it ultimately fails in the looking cool department too I guess. At my first auto-x with the BBK someone who stopped by to watch the racing in an Integra was checking out my car and said pretty much "Wow, those are big brakes! Too bad they aren't something good like Brembo." To which my friend quiped to me "Yes, too bad they aren't Brembo *made in China, cough*."
I am just happy not to be washing the inside of my front wheels anymore!
Make your own flex lines. I haven't done this, but this would be the plan.
a) Use a straight NPT to flare fitting out of the caliper. This will allow you to tighten the (dodgy) NPT fitting to the "proper" sealing compression and not worry about how it will affect the flex line routing.
b) Use swivel fittings on both ends of the line.
c) Route the line long in an "S" curve around the shock (like stock) with an attachment on the shock body.
These changes will allow proper range of motion and additional safety in the advent of an object entering the wheel well.
While bleeding the brakes I noticed a bit of side to side flex in the caliper. A heavier duty caliper/mounting arrangement might reduce this flex and provide a better brake feel as I would reason it is taking brake pedal movement to move the caliper. Perhaps they could employ a steel caliper bracket and a tapered radial stud arrangement for the caliper to bolt to and be more positively located.
Shown under 18" Forgeline F14
Initial impressions after bedding in the pads-
Though Wilwood says it engineers the kit for with stock master cylinder output and ABS the brake balance is obviously off as you can really feel the braking performance drop off as ABS engages. I had not noticed this phenomenon with the stock brakes.
This is of course nearly inevitable if you are set on just improving front braking.
The only way to upgrade just the front brakes and avoid affecting the front to rear brake bias would be to use a "big brake kit" that was a caliper spacer and wider rotor for more thermal capacity and brake cooling ducts for improving cooling (like Mandeville kit).
Otherwise one has to buy a kit that upgrades both front and rear brakes (Stock '99 brakes) or has a means to adjust front and rear bias (buy a brake bias adjuster).
Any larger diameter rotor big brake upgrade will affect bias and lengthen your first stop distance.
I have seen tuners switch to lower coefficient of friction front pads to keep the ABS from coming on too early in front. Eventually, I will try larger rear brakes; maybe something like the Racing Brake 13" rotor/hat and caliper spacer.
I didn't notice the ABS coming on during auto-x, but I do usually brake (just?) below ABS engagement when racing.
Though I bled the brakes thouroughly on install re-bleeding the brakes after racing released some foamy air/fluid and helped the pedal feel come back up to being the same as stock. I might go with a larger master cylinder as I really like brakes where the pedal pressure required increases but the pedal doesn't move much at all.
I did notice a huge improvement in braking feel when coming down from high speeds, I mean higher speeds than you will acheive at auto-x or in normal street driving and a more consistant brake feel in repeated stops from regular speeds.
This kit did fit under my 17" Volk TE-37 with no problems and they are the older forging with less convex spokes even. I guess Wilwood figures they will fit with MOST 18" wheels so they state 18" wheel required. They did not fit my 16" TE-37, the caliper hit the barrel where it drops down in front; if the wheels had the drop on the inside of the wheel a 16" wheel might actually fit over these calipers.
My final opinion on the Wilwood 14" SL6R kit for the FD would be that it probably isn't really necessary or even helpful for the auto-x racing I do, but it does look cool filling up the wheel.
Then again, a name like Wilwood isn't going to go as far with the hardparkers as Alcon, AP Racing, Project Mu or even Brembo- so it ultimately fails in the looking cool department too I guess. At my first auto-x with the BBK someone who stopped by to watch the racing in an Integra was checking out my car and said pretty much "Wow, those are big brakes! Too bad they aren't something good like Brembo." To which my friend quiped to me "Yes, too bad they aren't Brembo *made in China, cough*."
I am just happy not to be washing the inside of my front wheels anymore!
06-27-13, 03:21 PM
#5
Nice write up. NPT inlets on the calipers are super sketch... especially 90* adapters for them. This being a Wilwood kit I would have thought it would be engineered a bit better than that.
This'll definitely make me look harder a lesser known BBK companies before I buy one for the FC (not that Wilwood is lesser known, but if a fairly big name can make mistakes like this...), and probably make me spend the extra money for some AP Racing calipers
This'll definitely make me look harder a lesser known BBK companies before I buy one for the FC (not that Wilwood is lesser known, but if a fairly big name can make mistakes like this...), and probably make me spend the extra money for some AP Racing calipers
06-27-13, 08:02 PM
#6
My final opinion on the Wilwood 14" SL6R kit for the FD would be that it probably isn't really necessary or even helpful for the auto-x racing I do, but it does look cool filling up the wheel.
I have an older version of this setup, and we got the brakes really toasty during an autox event.
I bought a similar kit in 2006 from Precision Brakes which is now Revolution Brakes.
The mounting solution was a little crude, but sturdy, and I didn't have the issues routing the hoses that you are having.
The fittings are suboptimal, but have presented no issues.
There was a thread I started on that kit in 2006, but it seems to no longer be on rx7club.com
06-27-13, 09:15 PM
#7
Pull the ABS fuse and your opinion of whether or not you were engaging ABS may change
Good idea, I have never tried driving the FD without ABS. I am really curious now.
Oh, I don't know. Try dual drive on a fast autox course.
I have an older version of this setup, and we got the brakes really toasty during an autox event.
I hope it wasn't just for vanity in my case as well, though your FD has much more power than mine.
I am looking forward to the brakes for the Hoopa Hillclimb next month our club does. It is always very assuring to have brakes that you have confidence in and feel consistent when you are racing with no runoff area.
Also for events like the Enduros the Medford club puts on and hopefully some day I will get to a real track to experience that as well.
Good idea, I have never tried driving the FD without ABS. I am really curious now.
Oh, I don't know. Try dual drive on a fast autox course.
I have an older version of this setup, and we got the brakes really toasty during an autox event.
I hope it wasn't just for vanity in my case as well, though your FD has much more power than mine.
I am looking forward to the brakes for the Hoopa Hillclimb next month our club does. It is always very assuring to have brakes that you have confidence in and feel consistent when you are racing with no runoff area.
Also for events like the Enduros the Medford club puts on and hopefully some day I will get to a real track to experience that as well.
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06-30-13, 02:57 PM
#8
I have the exact same issue with line routing on the front with my racingbrake BBK. I guess its not so much of an "issue" as many have run it like this with no problems, but IMO it just appears half-assed and dont understand why a more elegant solution wasnt incorporated into the kit.
06-30-13, 05:45 PM
#9
Great review. While the competitive price-point of this BBK certainly makes it enticing, there are a few features that swayed me away, personally.
Namely, this kit uses the NARROW version of the SL6R caliper, which uses relatively thin 16mm pads and the body is powder coated. This caliper should not be confused with the SL6R, which is stiffer, uses thicker 20mm pads, and has an anodized body. The SL6R is comparable to the AP Racing CP8350.
Secondly, in addition to Wilwood's sly marketing with their calipers, their cost-cutting is evident. As mentioned in your review, using shims to space out the adapter and hubcentric rings to fit the hats seems too universal. Are the rotors true floating or fixed?
Namely, this kit uses the NARROW version of the SL6R caliper, which uses relatively thin 16mm pads and the body is powder coated. This caliper should not be confused with the SL6R, which is stiffer, uses thicker 20mm pads, and has an anodized body. The SL6R is comparable to the AP Racing CP8350.
Secondly, in addition to Wilwood's sly marketing with their calipers, their cost-cutting is evident. As mentioned in your review, using shims to space out the adapter and hubcentric rings to fit the hats seems too universal. Are the rotors true floating or fixed?
Last edited by Farkel; 06-30-13 at 05:47 PM.
06-30-13, 11:32 PM
#10
The rotors are a fixed 2 piece design.
If you look at the exploded diagram in my first post you can check out that and the other other details of the kit.
I think this kit is aimed at street/light track duty, and has some nice features like 6 piston forged calipers with stainless pistons, big 14" rotor available, common pad footprint and low price.
I think Wilwood should offer this kit with an upgrade option path including their larger race caliper, thermal blocking pistons, CCM rotor, etc. That would allow one to tailor the kit to match the specs of most any other manufacturers kits at a lower price point.
If you look at the exploded diagram in my first post you can check out that and the other other details of the kit.
I think this kit is aimed at street/light track duty, and has some nice features like 6 piston forged calipers with stainless pistons, big 14" rotor available, common pad footprint and low price.
I think Wilwood should offer this kit with an upgrade option path including their larger race caliper, thermal blocking pistons, CCM rotor, etc. That would allow one to tailor the kit to match the specs of most any other manufacturers kits at a lower price point.
07-06-13, 02:57 PM
#11
Namely, this kit uses the NARROW version of the SL6R caliper, which uses relatively thin 16mm pads and the body is powder coated. This caliper should not be confused with the SL6R, which is stiffer, uses thicker 20mm pads, and has an anodized body. The SL6R is comparable to the AP Racing CP8350.
The kit on my FD was about $2500, uses 2 piece rotors and has the SL6R caliper.
The pads are quite a bit thicker than 16mm, though I forget the dimension.
07-06-13, 07:43 PM
#13
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Thanks for taking the time to write all that up
Although the SBG Comp brake kit is more money (approx 50% more), I'm pretty happy with the choice. Something to be said for a product engineered for our application
Having said that, this seems like a nice solution for those looking to go larger than stock while not breaking the bank.
Although the SBG Comp brake kit is more money (approx 50% more), I'm pretty happy with the choice. Something to be said for a product engineered for our application
Having said that, this seems like a nice solution for those looking to go larger than stock while not breaking the bank.
09-08-14, 06:04 PM
#14
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Just finished installing my kit, same as yours:
I ended up taking the brake lines to a hydraulic shop and made them 5" longer than what was provided by Wilwood, and eliminated the 90degree on the end. My line runs in front of the shock. I have the NPT fitting on the caliper pointing exactly to the front, nipple parallel to the ground.
The flex line now is straight at both ends. I am running Megan Racing coilovers, and have the midpoint of the brake flexline in a brakeline slip bracket. even with turning the wheels and up and down wheel movement, the flexlines should be seeing minimal stress.
The safety wiring of the disc bolts was a royal bitch. it took a while to get them right.
I also had the Wilwood rotors copied by a custom shop to flat surface rotors, since I am going to be using these as track only, and I bought a set of their racing compound pads.
If anyone wants to buy a nice new set of brake lines. rotors, and pads, let me know.
Wilwood, BTW won't take these back for refund or credit.
I ended up taking the brake lines to a hydraulic shop and made them 5" longer than what was provided by Wilwood, and eliminated the 90degree on the end. My line runs in front of the shock. I have the NPT fitting on the caliper pointing exactly to the front, nipple parallel to the ground.
The flex line now is straight at both ends. I am running Megan Racing coilovers, and have the midpoint of the brake flexline in a brakeline slip bracket. even with turning the wheels and up and down wheel movement, the flexlines should be seeing minimal stress.
The safety wiring of the disc bolts was a royal bitch. it took a while to get them right.
I also had the Wilwood rotors copied by a custom shop to flat surface rotors, since I am going to be using these as track only, and I bought a set of their racing compound pads.
If anyone wants to buy a nice new set of brake lines. rotors, and pads, let me know.
Wilwood, BTW won't take these back for refund or credit.
06-16-16, 03:08 PM
#17
Long term update-
They sit in the garage just fine without leaking LOL.
But really-
I found out the side to side or in/out flex of the radial mount calipers is actually one of the design benefits of the radial mount caliper versus the standard perpendicular mount caliper.
This pivot point is centered on the rotor and allows the caliper to pivot with rotor flex on the spindle to decrease pad knock-back over a standard perpendicular mount caliper.
The other design benefit to radial mount is they are more rigid in the direction that matters (front to back or more specific radially) than a standard perpendicular mount caliper so there is less uneven pad wear from torsion and more immediate initial brake feel from lack of radial movement and shudder from torsion.
---------
The bad.
The rotor hats are e-coated instead of anodized. While they don't turn that dark purplish brown that black anodized finish does with heat, the e-coat sticks to your wheel hub mounting surface and peels off the rotor hat once you get the brakes hot. Haven't had any issues with the e-coated portion visible with the wheel on.
The universal rotor hat with rotor-centric ring. If you are not careful changing wheels the ring can be displaced from the rotor and damaged/out of place when re-installing wheels. Would some high temp epoxy or sleeve retaining loc-tite hold up to the brake heat to keep them in place with the wheels off?
IDK, but I want to find out.
They sit in the garage just fine without leaking LOL.
But really-
I found out the side to side or in/out flex of the radial mount calipers is actually one of the design benefits of the radial mount caliper versus the standard perpendicular mount caliper.
This pivot point is centered on the rotor and allows the caliper to pivot with rotor flex on the spindle to decrease pad knock-back over a standard perpendicular mount caliper.
The other design benefit to radial mount is they are more rigid in the direction that matters (front to back or more specific radially) than a standard perpendicular mount caliper so there is less uneven pad wear from torsion and more immediate initial brake feel from lack of radial movement and shudder from torsion.
---------
The bad.
The rotor hats are e-coated instead of anodized. While they don't turn that dark purplish brown that black anodized finish does with heat, the e-coat sticks to your wheel hub mounting surface and peels off the rotor hat once you get the brakes hot. Haven't had any issues with the e-coated portion visible with the wheel on.
The universal rotor hat with rotor-centric ring. If you are not careful changing wheels the ring can be displaced from the rotor and damaged/out of place when re-installing wheels. Would some high temp epoxy or sleeve retaining loc-tite hold up to the brake heat to keep them in place with the wheels off?
IDK, but I want to find out.
06-16-16, 09:14 PM
#18
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My cloned Coleman rotors only lasted one season using Wilwood BP40 racing pads, then Hawk blacks-- they started developing significant hairline heat cracks that started to get concerning.
I increased my air ducting to the rotors, and I'm using the Wilwood slotted rotors for the equivalent of one season for me- so far no problems using Porterfield R4, then switching to Raybestos ST43.
The safety wiring was easier the second time.
Overall this setup works for road courses, certainly not cheap for replacement parts. Later and harder into corner than the stocks, without the worry.
I increased my air ducting to the rotors, and I'm using the Wilwood slotted rotors for the equivalent of one season for me- so far no problems using Porterfield R4, then switching to Raybestos ST43.
The safety wiring was easier the second time.
Overall this setup works for road courses, certainly not cheap for replacement parts. Later and harder into corner than the stocks, without the worry.
06-17-16, 07:45 AM
#19
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Have you guys seen this? Can't beat it IMO 
Click Here yo------>https://www.rx7club.com/sakebomb-gar.../#post12076253
Click Here yo------>https://www.rx7club.com/sakebomb-gar.../#post12076253
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