Sean, you are tha' man!! I'm sure you'll let us know when you find a car to test it on. As long as it doesn't cut down on response then I'm sure I'll be up for it.

GCbutter, you came to the right place. You won't find better customer service then here bro!!

Zach

 

Does this new wheel compromise the response at all? If no hard figures what do your calculations yield, or do you have at least an idea of how it should perform based on the facts and specs of this wheel in respect to responce?

What does this wheel do in plain English? Does it simply fatten the compressor map islands, or does it have a higher efficiency? Or am I way off?

 

Is it possible to buy only a few items from the kit?
for instance, turbo, manifold and wastegate only?

or turbo, wastegate only ?

 

I'm trying to get the compressor map from them, but as for response the change should be minimal. I try and keep the response as close as possible to what it was because that is what makes it such a fun turbo on the street. The overall wheel ratio only changes by.03 so you shouldn't notice much difference. I am shooting for a 5-10% increase in output without having a negative effect on response. So if we take Broken09's car for example it did 436@16lbs if we see a 5% increase that puts us at 457whp if I get that I'll be happy if you wanted more at the sake of response I have 1.06 and 1.12 housings as well.

Yes it will be more expensive. I have to pay for the turbo then pay for the wheel to be machined, and the compressor housing to be machined then all of it assembled and balanced. But people need to look at it differently than they normally do. If it costs you $350 dollars to get 21more hp out of broken09's car by putting on a better exhaust or intake. Why do people think $350 dollars more on the turbo is such a bad idea? They shouldn't.

Yes I do sell some things seperately. I'm not sure how cost effective it is in some cases, but I do offer most things seperate.

 

Sean,
Let's try and do some of this to my car . Answer my email
-Nic

 

I'd hate to see Seans inbox, lol
But on a side note his account does act up sometimes and he wont even recieve the email...so I usually send two copies with a two day buffer inbetween each one.

 

yeah I know I just like to give him **** from time to time

 

I hear ya... I dont like giving Sean a hard time, but ended up looking that way cause I was getting really tired of waiting on the kit. Also on a side note.... did you notice any kinks in the oil drain line on your installation? No matter what I try or do...there is a small goose neck going on down there, it looks like the OMP connector is pushing down on the hose alittle

 

I'm no longer running the OMP so no I have not experienced that problem... however I remember it being like that just a little. I had to trim the hose slightly and if I remember right I took the drain to a grinder and shortened it just slightly. That seemed to give it a more even bend radius.

 

Not sure if I missed it, but what size is downpipe in this kit? also I noticed the website says the kit includes heat shielding, but this thread does not. is that still included? thanks.

 

If I remember correctly the DP is 3". I don't know about the heat shield though.

Zach

 

Yes it is a 3 inch downpipe in the gt35r with a t4 exhaust housing turbo kit. The heat shielding is for the turbo kit that comes with the gt35r with a t3 housing and short style runners manifold.

 

Forgive me if this has been covered, but is it correct that only the "T3" 35R kit retains the low-mount, factory airpump-able configuration, and the "T4" version does not?

 

It is a 3" DP, I can offer a 4" option for those who have 4" exhaust for extra. Ptrhahn, I can make a low mount T4 that should be in the same position as the T3 but that would add some to the price as I currently don't have a fixture to do so it would be a one off.

 

Would this mean a compromise in anything, i.e.: the length/shape of the runners, or anything that would reduce performance?

 

Nope just more work for me.

 

Hypothetical situation.... lets say you have an agressive street port or possibly a half-bridge. would the 35r start to wheeze around 8.5-9Krpm? or can it pull solidly up to or past that? I know your site talks about it with a stock port job. just got me thinking.

 

35R will run out of breath at higher boost levels for sure on bridge motors, the 35RS that I will be releasing soon should work well.

 

ok, I want 5lbs@2500rpm and 15lbs@7500rpms but I want to keep 15lbs up to 8500rpm's if possible. ...is that even possible? I don't understand which wheel has to be smaller and which has to be larger to acheive this goal. Can you please look at my kit and tell me if I need to change the wheels? I don't want higher boost ability. I don't care if it's out of breath at 20lbs. I don't want power to roll off at 7k rpm's. Do I have to sacrifice low end for this or is that only for higher boost levels? How do I best/most efficiently achieve my goals at 1bar?

 

This will offer more eff. across the board, and it will keep pulling past 8500rpm while hardly effecting response. It will be slightly off the 35R because of a larger inducer but it will be minimal.

-S-

 

inducer = compressor?

So it will start at 2700rpm with the RS vs 2500rpm with the R (for example)?
So keep pulling means power will not drop off but will hold 15lbs beyond 7k rpm's?

To acheive my goal:
do I need to increase the compressor wheel size?
do I need to decrease my exhaust wheel size?

 

Inducer is the entry at which a wheel, turbine or compressor, takes in air. Exducer is where it spits out the air

It will hold 15lbs as long as you want to keep your foot in it.
I think you will be fine with what you have, that said, I think you will like the RS better, and with your stuff here it wouldn't hurt to take advantage of it now. What ports are you running? What IC?

 

^ cool, i'm learning.

Large street port, 14-16lbs on 91oct (CA version), Apexi FMIC, radiator custom angled, dual 25-row Mocal, Viton o-rings, Evans, 850/1300 injectors on oem rails but w/Sard FPR, strait pipe but may add two metal cats in series, Buddy club exhaust, not sure what else is relevant.

What about the exducer? Do I need to change that as well? Do I need to change the snail housing to a 1.06?

oh, let me rephrase previous question: On most dyno charts that i've seen, HP falls off at 7k rpm's. If the turbo holds 15lbs, will the peak HP hold as well or will it fall off at 7k rpm's? I want to keep peak HP beyond redline, if possible.

 

That's the idea, glad to help.


We can go 35RS,1.06 if you have the large street port, and still keep good response. Power dropping off after 7K rpms, has more to do with motor and manifold than just turbo alone. Peak power point is mainly set by manifold (both Intake and exhaust) than by just the turbo chosen. Running a shorter manifold will help keep power up after peak power point is reached.

-S-

 

^ ok sounds good, add it to my tab please. So i'm waiting for that and the V-band? Has everything been heat coated?

Would there be any fitment issue with that new strait piped lower intake manifold? I forget who makes it but if it makes a difference then I may get it also.