SpideyFan6010

My 7 is fix but not ready for the road yet. It turns out the accident left some other gremlins for me to dispose of but I now have Power windows and matching exterior trim all around car looks almost BRAND new will be posting pics soon. I think I have some Rear Diff mount issues will go into more detail later I am so EXCITED!!!

TwistedRotors

iTrader: (3)

w00t!!

SpideyFan6010

Pics of my Eva





What do you guys think? For $400 it isn't that bad

SpideyFan6010

When I started the car yesterday it didn't go threw the warm-up cycle at all and it died shortly after I started the car. I don't know why this seems to happen every time I get body work done to the car. Anyways I think If I just clean the plugs and get some NEW wires she will be ok. The LOUD Clunking noise on take off and shifts is what is bothering me. I haven't driven the car since I brought it home and after it did that 1/2 azz start yester day I wasn't feeling too confident in driving her around and doing more harm than good. Tell me what you guys think. I lifted the car and did the diff mount test but I didn't see it move but I defiantly know it is drive train related issue. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

SpideyFan6010

I took the plugs out clean them and put them back in. Car started the warm-up cycle then when the rpm's lowered(100 rpms) it almost died then came back to life(800 rpm) then almost died(100 rpm again) then came back(1000 rpm) then died.(0 rpms) I need to replace the wires cause since I have owned her I haven't replaced them cause the auto parts store didn't carry the NGK ones. I might be having some fuel delivery issues as well( Injectors need to be cleaned?) and I have no Idea if the Pulsation Dampener has been replace I need to ask Phil cause I know i haven't replace it.

SpideyFan6010

to do a complete warm-up cycle. I revved her and she stopped right at 100 rpms and didn't move from there. For a while she was bouncing between 300-100 rpms but after a while she was just purring at 100. I will post a video of me doing a diagnostic run tomorrow from my brothers phone so I can get some more info on what the "Clunk" noise is so I can start driving her around again.

Hec's 79 gs

Looks Great! You need to let me do some pinstripes for you, it will make the car look totally different.

Hec's 79 gs

OH,! about the miss, souds like an air leak somewhere!

TwistedRotors

iTrader: (3)

Clunk is the front diff mount.

91 rx7

iTrader: (2)

looks really nice man.

i don't know but that seems like you might need to clean the throtle body, just go to auto zone and get one; all you have to do is just take off the throtle and clean it or you can spray some while the car is running.

or as hector said it might be a vac line off or something

SpideyFan6010

Keep that in mind but my main concerns is fixing her mechanically

SpideyFan6010

Check that? I looked in the FSM and I could only find one mount and when I shook it nothing happened? I am really stumped on this one. It sounds really bad like a car crash inside my car. I am really trying hard to get this fixed cause i paid to get her all sexy and now I can't show her off

SpideyFan6010

after the 2 start attempts today and I cleaned the plugs and put them back on and she did the whole war-up cycle for me. Also, My seat belt doesn't work anymore well it does but when the car stops it moves forward and when you start driving it moves back where it is suppose to go. I have to look into the body guys wiring he probably has something loose. At least I have Power Windows now

SpideyFan6010

It is a bad 1/2 shaft now cause when the car is off in neutral you can hear a scraping noise as you push it along coming from the rear passenger wheel close to where the car got hit in the accident. I have a T2 Differential and 1/2 shafts but that means I will need a custom drive shaft to drive the car around anytime soon. I made a video of the noise and showed it to Pat and he thinks it is a transmission bearing.

I want to take the drive shaft off then push the car and see if I still hear the scarping sound that way it won't rotate the transmission so I can separate the noise to better figure out what the problem is. Would a bad transmission bearing make the same noise as a bad Front diff mount?

SpideyFan6010

Ok I took the wheel off only to discover a Piece of the rear brake rotor is missing!
I don't know if this is what is causing the very loud and very bad sound that is coming from the rear of the car while driving. I need to replace the Rotor and see what happens. Also, I am having trouble getting the car to complete the warm-up cycle from starting point. I have a video of what it does I just want you guys to take a look and tell me what you think the problem might be.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7lPpc7T_CWQ

SpideyFan6010

Video of the Rear passenger side brake rotor with the piece missing. I posted it on youtube. Take a look at it and tell me what you think

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xTHT8nmfwy0

7dust

iTrader: (14)

1. Looks like you just have the idle set too low on the car. Maybe a throttle body adjustment will fix it.

2. Change that rotor please. Why is this even open for debate or discussion?

3. Your wheels are on backwards.

4. I'll take the T2 rear and half shafts off your hands.

5. Loud clunking is almost always a busted *** differential mount or that stupid little tab on the rear sub frame breaks off. Sometimes you can wedge a board above the differential pinion to make it stop clunking if you want to diagnose it for sure.

6. In case you haven't noticed, the transmission isn't in the rear wheel well. Just saying. Makes no sense that you have a noise from a bad transmission bearing there. If its a scraping noise you hear - it could be the brakes dragging. Take the pads out of that caliper and push the car. See if it still scrapes.

SpideyFan6010

I apperciate the tips I personally didn't think it was a transmission bearing it was just something I heard from some1 else that i showed the video to and that was their conclusion.

Hec's 79 gs

^^^^

TwistedRotors

iTrader: (3)

That's what I was going to say!!

Seriously though...Scott's the man. He's been there, done that. Hell, he can even tell you how to get arrested in an RX-7!










I think I'm going to die now.
-John

SpideyFan6010

getting a brake rotor tomorrow from Alan. Hopefully I can get the car fixed and running in time for the meet.

I hope all you people are with Stupid me at the meet.

oppa637

iTrader: (6)

lol, good job coming this far

SpideyFan6010

Thanks Oppa

SpideyFan6010

Ok Alan just came by with the rotor and it is too big. Apparently the T2 rear brake rotors are different. Alan checked the differential just to make sure I am not retarded/stupid and he said that bitch is welded already and isn't going anywhere soon.

Alan suggested since my motor mounts are a little loose that could possibly be the problem and for the idling issue he suggested adjusting the TPS?

The car just sits at 100-200 rpm's after it is warmed up is that considered low? Also, he said my pulleys are a little lose and to tighten them. He is going to talk to his cousin today and see if he has a Base Brake rotor around.

Any else have a spare rear brake rotor for a base or coupe model FC?

TwistedRotors

iTrader: (3)

At 100-200 RPM your engine is not running. Hell, the starter turns the engine over ~250 RPM! And I believe the trailing coil cuts off below 700 so your tach couldn't show 200 rpm even if it wanted. Please take a closer look and let us know what it's really idling at. 700-1000 should be just fine.
-John