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Old Oct 30, 2009 | 07:22 PM
  #26  
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Check RockAuto.com for your brake rotor. Some of their parts are stupid cheap, and they're here in Houston. Angel and I bought the last 2 brand new brake master cylinders that they had up there for $26 each last week.
-John
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Old Oct 31, 2009 | 01:19 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by TwistedRotors
At 100-200 RPM your engine is not running. Hell, the starter turns the engine over ~250 RPM! And I believe the trailing coil cuts off below 700 so your tach couldn't show 200 rpm even if it wanted. Please take a closer look and let us know what it's really idling at. 700-1000 should be just fine.
-John
make a new video showing the car idling at below 700 rpm. I mention this at the meets b4 and no one said it was a bad thing. The car has always idled that low after the warm-up cycle for as far as I was concerned I thought it was normal.
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Old Oct 31, 2009 | 08:43 AM
  #28  
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I remember you saying that and I thought I had said something about it before. 200 RPM isn't technically shown on the stock gauge.



You can see in this pic that if the car was idling at 200 RPM the needle would be pointing at the 0. I'm assuming that you're looking at your gauge and the needle is pointing to the small tic mark 2 spots above the first half-size mark? That first half-size mark is 500 RPM, so 2 tics above it would be 700 rpm (3 tic marks below the 1000 RPM line). That is on the low end for idle, but as long as she doesn't die at stop signs you should be ok.
I may be incorrect on the trailing coil shutting off below 700 rpm, but that is how it acts on my car. I can't remember if that is a coil thing, or a MegaSquirt thing...but I do know when my RPM drops below 700 my RPM gauge will show 0 due to the trailing coil shutting off completely.
-John
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 01:30 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by TwistedRotors
I remember you saying that and I thought I had said something about it before. 200 RPM isn't technically shown on the stock gauge.



You can see in this pic that if the car was idling at 200 RPM the needle would be pointing at the 0. I'm assuming that you're looking at your gauge and the needle is pointing to the small tic mark 2 spots above the first half-size mark? That first half-size mark is 500 RPM, so 2 tics above it would be 700 rpm (3 tic marks below the 1000 RPM line). That is on the low end for idle, but as long as she doesn't die at stop signs you should be ok.
I may be incorrect on the trailing coil shutting off below 700 rpm, but that is how it acts on my car. I can't remember if that is a coil thing, or a MegaSquirt thing...but I do know when my RPM drops below 700 my RPM gauge will show 0 due to the trailing coil shutting off completely.
-John
doesn't look like that at all. It doesn't have the half-size tic marks. Just the big ones at the 1,000 interval and 5 little ticks in between those. (Also it has darker ticks at the 1500, 2500, ect. intervals as well) After looking at my tack again it is more like 200-400 rpm. I have the video but I can't post it right now cause my computer is in scan mode cause it caught a virus. I will post it later on youtube and put the link here so you guys can see. it is like 7:31 long lol
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 08:09 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by SpideyFan6010
doesn't look like that at all. It doesn't have the half-size tic marks. Just the big ones at the 1,000 interval and 5 little ticks in between those. (Also it has darker ticks at the 1500, 2500, ect. intervals as well) After looking at my tack again it is more like 200-400 rpm. I have the video but I can't post it right now cause my computer is in scan mode cause it caught a virus. I will post it later on youtube and put the link here so you guys can see. it is like 7:31 long lol
Ye killin' me here, dude.
It doesn't look like that picture at all, yet it has big marks at 1k intervals, darker marks at 500 rpm and 5 little tic marks between those? Uuhhh..sounds pretty similar to me.
Anyway, if you're idling below the 500 rpm mark then it's too low. Adjust your idle to be between 700-1000 rpm.
Done.
-John
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 08:29 AM
  #31  
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 08:44 AM
  #32  
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^^^ I think Spidey was lookin at the Speedometer.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 12:22 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by TwistedRotors
Ye killin' me here, dude.
It doesn't look like that picture at all, yet it has big marks at 1k intervals, darker marks at 500 rpm and 5 little tic marks between those? Uuhhh..sounds pretty similar to me.
Anyway, if you're idling below the 500 rpm mark then it's too low. Adjust your idle to be between 700-1000 rpm.
Done.
-John
500 rpm range the 1st tick after zero then the car is idling at 500-600 rpm's then and needs to be turned up I am going the FSM to find the idle screw. Going to adjust my belts since they need tightening as well. At least I know how to properly read a tachometer now. Thanks john, thank you Scott off to go fix the damn thing. "Just Fuck1ing Do it!"
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 06:32 PM
  #34  
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HAHAHAHA, thats sorta funny
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 07:04 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by SpideyFan6010
Thanks john, thank you Scott
Angel gets credit for whipping out the digital crayons.
You're welcome.
-John
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 08:04 PM
  #36  
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Just keep the tach below 7000 and youll be ok. also the gtu rims have arrived. They look nice.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 09:16 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by SpideyFan6010
Thanks john, thank you Scott off to go fix the damn thing. "Just Fuck1ing Do it!"
No thank you to me? D: I said a thousand words with a picture Or at least a couple of sentences.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 11:35 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by AngelWankel
No thank you to me? D: I said a thousand words with a picture Or at least a couple of sentences.
Angel me getting Owned would have not been complete with out your help. Now If you excuse me I have some work to do.
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 09:00 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by SpideyFan6010
Angel me getting Owned would have not been complete with out your help. Now If you excuse me I have some work to do.
I'm glad to have helped
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 06:07 PM
  #40  
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Know where the Faster Idle Adjust Screw is located? I know it is on the throttle body but where? I was looking in the FSM and the diagrams they have are way to confusing to find. Can any1 take a picture of it and virtually circle it using photo shop? I searched on the forum but people just talk about it and there are no pictures of its actual location. I asked John but the screw I was moving was not it. lol

Scott or Chuck you guy know where it is at by any chance John said you might know?
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 07:18 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 91 rx7
looks really nice man.

i don't know but that seems like you might need to clean the throtle body, just go to auto zone and get one; all you have to do is just take off the throtle and clean it or you can spray some while the car is running.

or as hector said it might be a vac line off or something
Hey Anthony! Did you already clean the throttle body and plates?If dirty it makes the idle go down, heck I get cars with check engine lights on and this is the problem.I would do it before any other adjustments.
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 11:39 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Hec's 79 gs
Hey Anthony! Did you already clean the throttle body and plates?If dirty it makes the idle go down, heck I get cars with check engine lights on and this is the problem.I would do it before any other adjustments.
a go. What do I clean it with? Anything specific? I have a carb cleaner will that work?
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 08:54 AM
  #43  
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auto zone

Originally Posted by SpideyFan6010
a go. What do I clean it with? Anything specific? I have a carb cleaner will that work?
go get a throttle body cleaner from auto zone! and just take off the damn thing and clean it, or you can spry some of that while the car is running but u'll need some one to keep his foot on gas pedal cause the car is gone die on u like that; either ways u choose.
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 07:36 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 91 rx7
go get a throttle body cleaner from auto zone! and just take off the damn thing and clean it, or you can spry some of that while the car is running but u'll need some one to keep his foot on gas pedal cause the car is gone die on u like that; either ways u choose.
wanted to make sure what to use. Can't be too careful.
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 04:45 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by TwistedRotors
Check RockAuto.com for your brake rotor. Some of their parts are stupid cheap, and they're here in Houston. Angel and I bought the last 2 brand new brake master cylinders that they had up there for $26 each last week.
-John
where is this RockAuto place you speak of? i am always looking for parts for my money pit.

oh yeah, she looks good Spidey! keep up the good work... polish her up for the meet!

Last edited by hoang5659; Nov 10, 2009 at 04:48 PM.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 02:57 AM
  #46  
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....to start getting my Eva back to the meets i just got paid and plan on going to Johnathan's house to pick up a rear S5 N/A rear brake rotor and see where that puts me. I am pretty sure that isn't the cause of the loud destructive noise but u never know. And I can't rule it out until the defective rotor with a giant hole in it is taken care of.

When I replace the rotor I will post my finding on here I will keep everyone posted.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 05:06 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by SpideyFan6010
It is a bad 1/2 shaft now cause when the car is off in neutral you can hear a scraping noise as you push it along coming from the rear passenger wheel close to where the car got hit in the accident. I have a T2 Differential and 1/2 shafts but that means I will need a custom drive shaft to drive the car around anytime soon. I made a video of the noise and showed it to Pat and he thinks it is a transmission bearing.

I want to take the drive shaft off then push the car and see if I still hear the scarping sound that way it won't rotate the transmission so I can separate the noise to better figure out what the problem is. Would a bad transmission bearing make the same noise as a bad Front diff mount?
Trouble shooting ftw.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 05:09 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by SpideyFan6010
Know where the Faster Idle Adjust Screw is located? I know it is on the throttle body but where? I was looking in the FSM and the diagrams they have are way to confusing to find. Can any1 take a picture of it and virtually circle it using photo shop? I searched on the forum but people just talk about it and there are no pictures of its actual location. I asked John but the screw I was moving was not it. lol

Scott or Chuck you guy know where it is at by any chance John said you might know?
It's been a while since I looked at your thread, but I do want to say, back when you posted the msg I'm replying to, I looked on the interwebs for a picture of the idle adjuster screw for a while, as in, at least an hour if not more, and I couldn't find one.
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 01:27 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by AngelWankel
It's been a while since I looked at your thread, but I do want to say, back when you posted the msg I'm replying to, I looked on the interwebs for a picture of the idle adjuster screw for a while, as in, at least an hour if not more, and I couldn't find one.
Glad i am not the only one that couldn't find it.
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 02:55 AM
  #50  
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Friend told me I should look at this thread as I may have an answer. (sorry for raising a potentially dead thread) Might this be the adjusting screw you are looking for?



Series 5 TPS so it's got two plungers instead of the 1 used for the S4. It's on the side of the throttle body opposite from where the throttle cable connects.

Sorry, if its not very clear; I barely managed to get a half positive answer on this myself (I suspect you are much further along in your mechanical knowledge than I ).

And once again sorry if I raised a dead thread.
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