wire harness after single?
Yellow Dragon is no more
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,687
Likes: 1
From: Knoxville, TN
Chop them off, but be sure that the Idle solenoid still has power. This mod might require reconnecting about 3 or 4 black w/white stripe wires back together. They are all located together where the solenoid rack wires branch off the main engine harness.
Hey, where did my $$$ go?
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,413
Likes: 0
From: Bimingham, AL
Originally posted by spyfish007
Chop them off, but be sure that the Idle solenoid still has power. This mod might require reconnecting about 3 or 4 black w/white stripe wires back together. They are all located together where the solenoid rack wires branch off the main engine harness.
Chop them off, but be sure that the Idle solenoid still has power. This mod might require reconnecting about 3 or 4 black w/white stripe wires back together. They are all located together where the solenoid rack wires branch off the main engine harness.
What would be the symptom of cutting that
STEPHEN
Originally posted by spyfish007
Chop them off, but be sure that the Idle solenoid still has power. This mod might require reconnecting about 3 or 4 black w/white stripe wires back together. They are all located together where the solenoid rack wires branch off the main engine harness.
Chop them off, but be sure that the Idle solenoid still has power. This mod might require reconnecting about 3 or 4 black w/white stripe wires back together. They are all located together where the solenoid rack wires branch off the main engine harness.
Trending Topics
Yellow Dragon is no more
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,687
Likes: 1
From: Knoxville, TN
No they are the +12V supply for all the solenoids. Basically if you cut it then your Idle air control valve won't operate at all so idle will be erretic. More than likely an unassuming person would change the bleed screw to lower the idle speed and then it would have to be adjusted with the weather. Basically the supply branches out at the root of the solenoid rack so that is why there is 3 or 4 different b/w wires. Just connect them all. You only need 2, but save the trouble of testing them all and solder them all.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 587
Likes: 1
From: Jax, Fl.
I'm pretty sure it's the solenoid that bolts to the bottom of the UIM right behind the throttle body. Most people that go single elliminate it (I don't think the Haltech can even control it), & most block off kits come with block offs for it.
I don't have it, my idle is a little odd as I sometimes have to blip the throttle to get it to settle back down to 800 but I live with it & don't make adjustments from cool to warm temperatures.
I don't have it, my idle is a little odd as I sometimes have to blip the throttle to get it to settle back down to 800 but I live with it & don't make adjustments from cool to warm temperatures.
Lives on the Forum
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 5,097
Likes: 1
From: southern NJ
Originally posted by Eep
someone told me I had to put resistors on the wires too, do I have to?
thanks
someone told me I had to put resistors on the wires too, do I have to?
thanks
Rotary Freak
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,360
Likes: 0
From: Overland Park, KS
Originally posted by spyfish007
No they are the +12V supply for all the solenoids. Basically if you cut it then your Idle air control valve won't operate at all so idle will be erretic. More than likely an unassuming person would change the bleed screw to lower the idle speed and then it would have to be adjusted with the weather. Basically the supply branches out at the root of the solenoid rack so that is why there is 3 or 4 different b/w wires. Just connect them all. You only need 2, but save the trouble of testing them all and solder them all.
No they are the +12V supply for all the solenoids. Basically if you cut it then your Idle air control valve won't operate at all so idle will be erretic. More than likely an unassuming person would change the bleed screw to lower the idle speed and then it would have to be adjusted with the weather. Basically the supply branches out at the root of the solenoid rack so that is why there is 3 or 4 different b/w wires. Just connect them all. You only need 2, but save the trouble of testing them all and solder them all.
Thanks
~Luke
Rebreaking things
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,586
Likes: 0
From: 1 foot in Boston 1 in NJ
Originally posted by spyfish007
Chop them off, but be sure that the Idle solenoid still has power. This mod might require reconnecting about 3 or 4 black w/white stripe wires back together.
Chop them off, but be sure that the Idle solenoid still has power. This mod might require reconnecting about 3 or 4 black w/white stripe wires back together.
Yellow Dragon is no more
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,687
Likes: 1
From: Knoxville, TN
The IAC sits on the UIM right next to the TPS. The ECU controls the amount of air that goes past the TB by opening/closing of the IAC. You might very well have idle problems if you don't run an IAC and your tuning is off. We have discussed the problems in the PFC forum in a tuning thread (I think). Eliminating the IAC can be simulated by turning off the idle-ign cntr on the PFC options menu.
So what questions do people have? Mainly I would suggest unwrapping the tape around the harness and look at what wires you are cutting. The black w/ white or black w/ yellow are +12V supplies.
So what questions do people have? Mainly I would suggest unwrapping the tape around the harness and look at what wires you are cutting. The black w/ white or black w/ yellow are +12V supplies.
thanks spyfish I had no idea. Ill check to see if I ****ed this up
what! the forum is editing out my ****s!
what is this new! you cant delete a **** what is going on here hahaha
How about fizuck! YEEEAAAASS
what! the forum is editing out my ****s!
what is this new! you cant delete a **** what is going on here hahaha
How about fizuck! YEEEAAAASS
Last edited by Snook; May 1, 2004 at 02:14 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post