RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum

RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum (https://www.rx7club.com/)
-   Single Turbo RX-7's (https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/)
-   -   wire harness after single? (https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/wire-harness-after-single-192062/)

Eep 06-01-03 02:29 AM

wire harness after single?
 
What do you guys do to all the wires that went to the solenoids in the rats nest? chop them off?

thanks
nick

lane_change 06-01-03 03:43 AM

chop'd them off

Eep 06-01-03 01:10 PM

how many of them do you chop off, and does it throw any codes?

spyfish007 06-03-03 11:28 AM

Chop them off, but be sure that the Idle solenoid still has power. This mod might require reconnecting about 3 or 4 black w/white stripe wires back together. They are all located together where the solenoid rack wires branch off the main engine harness.

SPOautos 06-03-03 12:23 PM


Originally posted by spyfish007
Chop them off, but be sure that the Idle solenoid still has power. This mod might require reconnecting about 3 or 4 black w/white stripe wires back together. They are all located together where the solenoid rack wires branch off the main engine harness.

What would be the symptom of cutting that

STEPHEN

FDokinawa 06-03-03 02:12 PM


Originally posted by spyfish007
Chop them off, but be sure that the Idle solenoid still has power. This mod might require reconnecting about 3 or 4 black w/white stripe wires back together. They are all located together where the solenoid rack wires branch off the main engine harness.
Ya? I've never heard of that... what happens if you dont?

Eep 06-03-03 03:10 PM

All the 3/4 wires are from the same solenoid? and you just splice them all together?

spyfish007 06-03-03 10:40 PM

No they are the +12V supply for all the solenoids. Basically if you cut it then your Idle air control valve won't operate at all so idle will be erretic. More than likely an unassuming person would change the bleed screw to lower the idle speed and then it would have to be adjusted with the weather. Basically the supply branches out at the root of the solenoid rack so that is why there is 3 or 4 different b/w wires. Just connect them all. You only need 2, but save the trouble of testing them all and solder them all.

Eep 06-04-03 01:29 AM

solder them to eachother right?

Thanks for all your info, Im still learning alot myself.. :)

nick

Eep 08-07-03 06:56 PM

someone told me I had to put resistors on the wires too, do I have to?

thanks

mmonaco 08-08-03 09:42 PM

ok clue me in i dont see the idle solenoid on the diagram!! am i being a moron! this is always possible!

c00lduke 08-09-03 03:09 AM

yeah, deff more info on this

wylie 08-14-03 10:06 AM

?

es 08-14-03 11:22 AM

I'm pretty sure it's the solenoid that bolts to the bottom of the UIM right behind the throttle body. Most people that go single elliminate it (I don't think the Haltech can even control it), & most block off kits come with block offs for it.

I don't have it, my idle is a little odd as I sometimes have to blip the throttle to get it to settle back down to 800 but I live with it & don't make adjustments from cool to warm temperatures.

Eep 08-15-03 10:11 PM

So all of these I can chop off?

rxrotary2_7 08-16-03 08:58 AM


Originally posted by Eep
someone told me I had to put resistors on the wires too, do I have to?

thanks

i have heard people say you need to with the PFC.... but you realy dont have to. nothing will happen if you dont. no resistors needed, and yes Nick just chop them all the hell off of there.

DiaperBoy 08-16-03 06:15 PM

cool didn't know this...

c00lduke 08-17-03 11:55 AM


Originally posted by spyfish007
No they are the +12V supply for all the solenoids. Basically if you cut it then your Idle air control valve won't operate at all so idle will be erretic. More than likely an unassuming person would change the bleed screw to lower the idle speed and then it would have to be adjusted with the weather. Basically the supply branches out at the root of the solenoid rack so that is why there is 3 or 4 different b/w wires. Just connect them all. You only need 2, but save the trouble of testing them all and solder them all.
I'm still wondernig about this stuff and more info on it.

Thanks
~Luke

the_glass_man 04-30-04 07:19 PM

Idle control who needs that? :D

CCarlisi 04-30-04 09:00 PM


Originally posted by spyfish007
Chop them off, but be sure that the Idle solenoid still has power. This mod might require reconnecting about 3 or 4 black w/white stripe wires back together.
Or you could do what KD did to Zoomzoom's car and solder the IAC wire onto one of the wires coming off of the secondary injectors :eek:

spyfish007 04-30-04 11:22 PM

The IAC sits on the UIM right next to the TPS. The ECU controls the amount of air that goes past the TB by opening/closing of the IAC. You might very well have idle problems if you don't run an IAC and your tuning is off. We have discussed the problems in the PFC forum in a tuning thread (I think). Eliminating the IAC can be simulated by turning off the idle-ign cntr on the PFC options menu.

So what questions do people have? Mainly I would suggest unwrapping the tape around the harness and look at what wires you are cutting. The black w/ white or black w/ yellow are +12V supplies.

Huero 04-30-04 11:46 PM

good info guys
going single myself.

Snook 05-01-04 02:12 PM

thanks spyfish I had no idea. Ill check to see if I ****ed this up

what! the forum is editing out my ****s!

what is this new! you cant delete a **** what is going on here hahaha

How about fizuck! YEEEAAAASS


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:00 AM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands