What oil fittings for my borg?
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
What oil fittings for my borg?
Hey guys, in the middle of my single build and wanting to run my oil lines but just need to know whats the best way to go about it and what fittings i need.
First photo - what fitting goes on the end of the factory hard line?
Second photo - what thread type is the borgwarner inlet?
Third photo - what kind of fitting do i need to get for this and where can i purchase one?
Bonus question - what does everyone do with their old coolant return lines from the factory turbos that go to the block?
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7club.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/image1_1__3cb251950b702d394559395df0d9430b0786dd16 .jpeg
First photo - what fitting goes on the end of the factory hard line?
Second photo - what thread type is the borgwarner inlet?
Third photo - what kind of fitting do i need to get for this and where can i purchase one?
Bonus question - what does everyone do with their old coolant return lines from the factory turbos that go to the block?
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7club.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/image1_1__3cb251950b702d394559395df0d9430b0786dd16 .jpeg
Last edited by Aramir; 01-01-19 at 07:09 PM.
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
My Bw takes 1/4 NPT for oil fee to -3an or you can use -4 depends on what you believe its better for you.
the stock hard line is 14mmx 1.5 pitch.
There are some line feed kits around, dont want to be an *** ,but searh it there is a ton of info on this.
you can use a total new line with a banjo and new fitting.
the stock hard line is 14mmx 1.5 pitch.
There are some line feed kits around, dont want to be an *** ,but searh it there is a ton of info on this.
you can use a total new line with a banjo and new fitting.
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
Two ways of doing it.
short line from the OEM metal line to the turbo oil feed.
-4 AN long line with banjo from the front iron to the turbo oil feed fitting.
use a fsitting like this 45° or 90° . I would prefer 45° -3AN or -4 AN.
There are a lot of places you can get them with different prices too. Look it up..
#4
endless build
iTrader: (15)
Modifying OEM turbo oil feed line
I like the use of the OEM line because:
it snakes perfectly to the turbo & it’s easy for servicing turbo or remove the line
the only downside is that it add a fitting between the turbo and the front iron
it shouldn’t be a problem it easy to reach/see
im not a fan of custom line there because it will rub against other parts going to the turbo,I’m sure it’s possible of a clean look with clamps and stuff but I found that is more work than finding the proper fitting at the first place.
i cut the OEM lines to have a nice single OEM line going to the turbo and added a fitting ( can’t recall but it’s their ! )
+it comes with the ”burn-look” already
it snakes perfectly to the turbo & it’s easy for servicing turbo or remove the line
the only downside is that it add a fitting between the turbo and the front iron
it shouldn’t be a problem it easy to reach/see
im not a fan of custom line there because it will rub against other parts going to the turbo,I’m sure it’s possible of a clean look with clamps and stuff but I found that is more work than finding the proper fitting at the first place.
i cut the OEM lines to have a nice single OEM line going to the turbo and added a fitting ( can’t recall but it’s their ! )
+it comes with the ”burn-look” already
#6
Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
Oil feel is 1/4 npt. I usually don't use that brass fitting that comes with the turbo. I do a 1/4 npt to -4an.Then make a -4 an hose with a 90 degree on each end. Oil feed on front iron is m14x1.5.
Oil return takes a t3/t4 style flange. Vibrant and a few other companies make them. It is up to you whether you want to make a -an line for the return or push lock. Thread pitch for the oil return flange bolts is 3/8x16. Need bolts about an inch long.
A GT45 style flange will fit the front cover for the other end of the oil return if you machine the corner. Otherwise there are several on the market that bolt right on.
The stock coolant hose nipples should be removed and plugged. Looping a section of a hose like I've seen many do looks sloppy and is just another failure point. Cut the cipples off flush, then use a reverse drill bit. It will pull them right out. Tap for 1/8 npt plugs and seal them.
Oil return takes a t3/t4 style flange. Vibrant and a few other companies make them. It is up to you whether you want to make a -an line for the return or push lock. Thread pitch for the oil return flange bolts is 3/8x16. Need bolts about an inch long.
A GT45 style flange will fit the front cover for the other end of the oil return if you machine the corner. Otherwise there are several on the market that bolt right on.
The stock coolant hose nipples should be removed and plugged. Looping a section of a hose like I've seen many do looks sloppy and is just another failure point. Cut the cipples off flush, then use a reverse drill bit. It will pull them right out. Tap for 1/8 npt plugs and seal them.
#7
Rocket Appliances
iTrader: (11)
You can download the borg warner catalog off the website and it will give you the dims for each turbos oil drain port. Some s400s have wider bolt pattern than the standard.
boostlab makes some killer billet extended oil drains for both sizes. This also moves the point where you have to use a large wrench on the AN hose end out of the small gap between the housings making it MUCH easier to get the drain line on right
boostlab makes some killer billet extended oil drains for both sizes. This also moves the point where you have to use a large wrench on the AN hose end out of the small gap between the housings making it MUCH easier to get the drain line on right
Last edited by Skeese; 01-16-19 at 07:17 AM.
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#8
Full Member
Thread Starter
So i probably should have measured the fitting before ordering my 1/4in npt fitting lol, didnt think about it too much because i dont use imperial. Obviously it doesnt fit, looks more like a 9/16ths fitting?
Im wondering if its AN or npt though due to the angled flange inside the fitting? Can anyone point me in the right direction haha
Im wondering if its AN or npt though due to the angled flange inside the fitting? Can anyone point me in the right direction haha
#9
Rotary Freak
I'd just take the fitting to Pirtek or Enzed given your location! Looks like you'll need something with a concave seat on one end going to a male dash 4.
As mentioned by IR, brass screw-in oil fittings give me the heebie-jeebies, you might be able to get a one piece 90 degree fitting with AN inlet, without worrying about torquing another fitting into a bit of brass rubbish.
As mentioned by IR, brass screw-in oil fittings give me the heebie-jeebies, you might be able to get a one piece 90 degree fitting with AN inlet, without worrying about torquing another fitting into a bit of brass rubbish.
#10
Full Member
Thread Starter
I'd just take the fitting to Pirtek or Enzed given your location! Looks like you'll need something with a concave seat on one end going to a male dash 4.
As mentioned by IR, brass screw-in oil fittings give me the heebie-jeebies, you might be able to get a one piece 90 degree fitting with AN inlet, without worrying about torquing another fitting into a bit of brass rubbish.
As mentioned by IR, brass screw-in oil fittings give me the heebie-jeebies, you might be able to get a one piece 90 degree fitting with AN inlet, without worrying about torquing another fitting into a bit of brass rubbish.
#11
Rotary Freak
Aus to NZ or vice-versa must be the most expensive shipping route in the world! There's been anodised fittings used, at least for drains, for years, normally they discolour from radiant heat after a while, prefer stainless in that area myself. Just so you're aware, Proflow and Aeroflow are Chinese. I've used them in non critical applications, but you can see in some of them when compared side to side with a name brand, there's compromises in sizing and finish.
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