Water Injection for 500R Setup
#1
Rotary Freak
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Water Injection for 500R Setup
So tomorrow is the big day. My long journey of building my streetported A-spec 500r FD goes into get tuned by Steve Kan. I've done anything and everything I can in order to prepare.
900+ break in miles on new engine
Brand new 10EGV spark plugs
20-50W Oil change
Brand new OEM fuel filter
Tightened all couplers
Filled up all fluids
Checked for all leaks
Sadly, I cannot check for boost leaks and/or if my water injection system is actually working because the car is not tuned to go into boost yet. I guess we will have to find out tomorrow when it is on the dyno but hopefully it's all working properly...
Anyway, the last thing I need to set is for when the pump starts to pump for my water injection. There is a min and a max setting. Currently I have it at 5psi and then max is 21psi. Is this typical or should I adjust those settings?
Only going to tune to around 15-16psi. Seeing that everything is working properly, what kind of power should I expect to see on 91 OCT pump gas.
900+ break in miles on new engine
Brand new 10EGV spark plugs
20-50W Oil change
Brand new OEM fuel filter
Tightened all couplers
Filled up all fluids
Checked for all leaks
Sadly, I cannot check for boost leaks and/or if my water injection system is actually working because the car is not tuned to go into boost yet. I guess we will have to find out tomorrow when it is on the dyno but hopefully it's all working properly...
Anyway, the last thing I need to set is for when the pump starts to pump for my water injection. There is a min and a max setting. Currently I have it at 5psi and then max is 21psi. Is this typical or should I adjust those settings?
Only going to tune to around 15-16psi. Seeing that everything is working properly, what kind of power should I expect to see on 91 OCT pump gas.
#2
Which water injection do you have? From your description it sounds like it might be the AEM. If it is you can test the system to see if it is actually working, just have to hold the button down
If it is some other system without a test mode, use a vacuum pump, connect a hose to the outlet so that it is supplying pressure to your AI control unit, this will tell you if the pump comes on.
If it is some other system without a test mode, use a vacuum pump, connect a hose to the outlet so that it is supplying pressure to your AI control unit, this will tell you if the pump comes on.
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Rotary Freak
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I believe I have the Coolingmist kit. The kit came with the car in its box when the previous owner ordered it.
http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmai...0PSIStandardTM
Here is the controller I am talking about
And this is just the rest of the pieces of the kit
Here is the kit installed spraying into my elbow
http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmai...0PSIStandardTM
Here is the controller I am talking about
And this is just the rest of the pieces of the kit
Here is the kit installed spraying into my elbow
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REPU Garage
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I tested my Snow Stage2 water/meth injection kit by hooking the reference vacuum line up to the control box and using my air compressor with the regulator set to 10psi and a blow gun to pressurize the line. I then put the nozzle in a bucket so it wouldn't spray into the intercooler piping.
This proved helpful because although the LED would come on, the pump was not spraying. Turn out to be a clogged pump feed hose. I never would have known and would have assumed it was spraying because the LED was coming on..which is just a dummy light showing when the pump gets power. I have since added an AEM water/meth flow gauge which gives an actual reading of water/meth flow in cc/min so I can read beyond just the dummy light. I would highly recommend it
This proved helpful because although the LED would come on, the pump was not spraying. Turn out to be a clogged pump feed hose. I never would have known and would have assumed it was spraying because the LED was coming on..which is just a dummy light showing when the pump gets power. I have since added an AEM water/meth flow gauge which gives an actual reading of water/meth flow in cc/min so I can read beyond just the dummy light. I would highly recommend it
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I have my AEM set at 5psi min (start spraying) and 12psi max (full spray). I would lower your max to a more comfortable area like 12-15 psi range so you are seeing full spray at those boost levels all the way to 21 psi.
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#8
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
I tested my Snow Stage2 water/meth injection kit by hooking the reference vacuum line up to the control box and using my air compressor with the regulator set to 10psi and a blow gun to pressurize the line. I then put the nozzle in a bucket so it wouldn't spray into the intercooler piping.
This proved helpful because although the LED would come on, the pump was not spraying. Turn out to be a clogged pump feed hose. I never would have known and would have assumed it was spraying because the LED was coming on..which is just a dummy light showing when the pump gets power. I have since added an AEM water/meth flow gauge which gives an actual reading of water/meth flow in cc/min so I can read beyond just the dummy light. I would highly recommend it
This proved helpful because although the LED would come on, the pump was not spraying. Turn out to be a clogged pump feed hose. I never would have known and would have assumed it was spraying because the LED was coming on..which is just a dummy light showing when the pump gets power. I have since added an AEM water/meth flow gauge which gives an actual reading of water/meth flow in cc/min so I can read beyond just the dummy light. I would highly recommend it
If you have a standard kit with a boost switch or a standard progressive kit you can get an LED and wire to this unit and when it detects pressure it lights up your LED.
If you are not in boost and your LED is lit up you most likely have a clog.
If your in boost and there is no light you have no flow so there is a problem.
When your light starts to to stay on after boost it is just starting to clog.
You shouldn't have it wired just to show that the pump has power.
Barry
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Coolingmist has a status monitor to help give you an idea of what your system is doing.
If you have a standard kit with a boost switch or a standard progressive kit you can get an LED and wire to this unit and when it detects pressure it lights up your LED.
If you are not in boost and your LED is lit up you most likely have a clog.
If your in boost and there is no light you have no flow so there is a problem.
When your light starts to to stay on after boost it is just starting to clog.
You shouldn't have it wired just to show that the pump has power.
Barry
If you have a standard kit with a boost switch or a standard progressive kit you can get an LED and wire to this unit and when it detects pressure it lights up your LED.
If you are not in boost and your LED is lit up you most likely have a clog.
If your in boost and there is no light you have no flow so there is a problem.
When your light starts to to stay on after boost it is just starting to clog.
You shouldn't have it wired just to show that the pump has power.
Barry
My Snow Stage2 unfortunately has no internal monitoring system so the only way to wire the LED is to the pumps power wire. There is no pressure monitoring system with the Snow system. This is just to show that you have reached the "start" PSI setting and the control module is sending power to the pump, that's it. The control module has no idea if there is line pressure or not.
With that said, I do like the Snow kit, but never find myself recommending it. It's overpriced for what it is, you can get more features in the $100 some dollar less AEM kit, or vastly more features in an Aquamist kit for only a little more.
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Well had the dyno session today and the pump didn't work Had to tune with no water injection but we did try to trouble shoot it like you said. Took off the hose and put pressurized air to the vacuum and no water was coming out. The LED was flickering green and then once the "boost" hit it would turn solid green, but again, no water even coming straight out of the pump so either the pump is dead or it was improperly installed.
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