Hi all.

I don't know if this is the correct place to put these questions but I thought it's kind of Turbo related.

I've started putting together a V-Mount set up for my T2, My main question is if I duck the air separately through the Rad and Ic does it matter how much of an angle I set them at?

I was thinking of moving the Oil cooler (possibly use a FD twin system) and fit the bottom of Rad from where the Cooler used to be and fit the ic level with the Bumper mount panel with them meeting level with the back of the head light pods.

I have set this up roughly with with cable tie's etc and the angle of the rad is more than I was expecting, would I be better setting the Ic less of an angle and giving the rad more space?

I am going to properly duct all this with ally but is there anything I can do about the heat soak that I'm expecting from having the Rad and Ic so close together? I was thinking of leaving a gap and filling it with foam but I think at over 100mph it would have to be quite some heavy duty foam. Any Idea's?

Cheers

Chris

P.S. i have done some searching and i can't seem to find any decent replies?

 

Obviously you don't want to have the radiator at a 0 angle. I would lean to keeping the radiator at a steeper angle and having the ic closer to horizontal. If you got a hood made that ducts air, you could set the ic directly underneath it, and close the hood off to the ic that way the radiator is still getting a lot of air, and the ic is getting airflow and getting a significant more amount of air becuase some of the flow would be directed out of the hood. Hope that makes sense. Good luck, and make sure to post pics of the install once you get done, I'd love to see how you have it set up.

- Steiner

 

I build one for a 3rd gen where the IC is close to horizontal (about 5 degrees)and the radiator is around a 30degree angle. I closed of the gap with sheet metal in the back and on the sides. The air is forced to go through either the radiator or the IC. I have a scoot hood which probably helps the IC. In any case the engine is running very cool...70 ambient 130 cruising 170 pushing and the IC piping after IC is cold to the touch even when I can barely touch the pre IC side. Haven't measured absolute temps yet but set-up seems to work great. As for heat soak when sitting in traffic...that will never change no matter what set-up you have. By the way I have a fluidyne radiator and a bell fab IC. Hope that helps

 

The angle shouldn’t be that big of an issue, as you are pressurizing an area (assuming you are ducting it off correctly) so the only way out is through the cores. The radiator has a fan that pulls air through the core so the angle should not change the characteristics of flow too much.

Some people have experimented with a divider, and have found that it is not necessary to properly cool each core efficiently.

I don’t see why heat soak would ever be an issue, as the fans will be pulling air through the radiator. And they should only be touching or very close at the back of the V.
For heat soak to occur you need to have ether conduction or convection and the fans will take care of convection, and if they are divided there will be no conduction, though I think that would be the least of your concerns.

Here are a couple of pics from the one I made.

 

wow thats a nice v-mount is that a custom setup i have never seen that. i tried a search and those pics never came up. whats the dimensions on that intercooler? 3 row? can i get some details? thats amazing set up man looks good

 

Real nice work. Looks good.

-Destin

 

Nicely done. I actually just finished my own v-mount, but I am poor and it is not as quite as nice. I used a stock rad and a mk III supra intercooler. Stock turbines though, so a huge intercooler is not quite as necessary for me. Everything, including making a battery tray and buying a 51r battery only cost about $140. So I guess you get what you pay for.

 

Here's my "unpolished" setup. I made the airbox, intercooler, thermostat houisng, and designed the radiator (Griffin built it) myself. I am also running an electric water pump (located at passenger side of the air box) and a completely redesigned cooling system without the water pump bypass port (which I beleive is a major contributor to thermal problems on these cars). Winter project is to build my PWM fan controller for the radiator and intercooler (intercooler already setup with NTC temp sensor). The intercooler fan will also be installed this winter, to completely remove any heat soak probles at idle problem (so far I have not had this problem though, but I don;t get caught in traffic jams were I

I have been running this setup for about 1,000 miles now, and realy think it works extremely well. I have two 1/8" holes in my high flow thermostat, and have problems even reaching operating temps during cool (<60°F) ambient days and evenings. The midwest has had an extremely mild summer, but I did get one chance to run on a 90°F day. The intercooler outlet temps were only a few degrees above ambient under moderate boost.

Glenn

 

Great looking pictures. Not sure about the angle of the outlet on the I/C. I know that it's a pressurised system, and air goes where it is told, but for me the angle is too much.

Fish

 

I agree with that. I'd like to see a different inlet and outlet for the intercooler but otherwise the system looks fantastic. Very nicely ducted with the fiberglass.

 

Ya if I had it to do again it is painfully obvious to me now I should have used a 45 instead of a 90 and just came off the cold side perpendicular from the core. It would flow better and look better, but so is life and this was not bad for my first try I think

 

Agree with that. Not bad at all for your first attempt.

Here is a picture of what will be my intercooler for my v-kit.

 

Oops, the picture I posted was just a thumbnail. Here is one that can be enlarged.

BTW, RotaryGod, you have a very clean looking setup.

Glenn