DelSlow

iTrader: (2)

This is going to sound retarded, but here goes:

My car is almost done, Im going to be running the first rotary Ive rebuilt. Its got a medium-large streetport, RA 2mm seals, and I reused the side, corner, and oil control seals since they were all within spec, all with new OEM springs.

Im running a turbonetics 62-1, with a .96 a/r turbine housing, p-trim wheel. Im planning on tuning for 16 psi on 93-94 octane, and 19-20 psi on race fuel with a 50-75 shot of nitrous(NX wet shot). Id like to hit 450+ whp

So my question is: Whats going to break first? Will the engine hold up? Ive got 285 Kumho MXs Im going to run on the street, and would like to run slicks on the track so Im a little worried about the drivetrain as well. Drivetrain is all stock except for a OS Giken twinplate.

Can anyone give me some advice?

BlaCkPlaGUE

If you have a complete TII drivetrain, it should hold up. I've been told that the stock TII/FD drivetrain can take up to 600+ hp. Would be great if someone could confirm that

hIGGI

iTrader: (7)

first thing to break - diff mount
when u weld it together, then it starts breaking somewhere else

myexlex

I know a couple guys running 600+ and 650+ both on stock drivetrain.

Stabber

exactly. Put some slicks on it, more **** will break

Poweraxel

first thing to break= Engine

DelSlow

iTrader: (2)

Yea, thats what Im worried about. I can swap out axles and drivetrain stuff relativly easy, but pulling and rebuilding the motor takes much more time and money that I wont have. I do have a full T2 drivetrain. Should I be worried about the side seals I reused?

ErnieT

iTrader: (2)

Just wondering why you'd throw Nitrous into the equation when you can just run more boost and it will be one less thing to go wrong. With N20 everything has to be perfect, ie. bottle pressure, right jets, and a solanoid always goes up. Just too much B.S. , IMO...

myexlex

as long as everything iss within spec, you have nothing to worry about the side seals...

DelSlow

iTrader: (2)

Well, the turbo kind of runs out steam at higher boost lvls if Im looking at the map right, I was just thinking about supplimenting the boost with nitrous to get the power Im looking for while keeping the turbo in its efficiency range. Also, I can get a brand new NX wet kit for $350 from a friend if I decide to use it.

Around here, everyone wants to race from a 40 mph roll when not at the track, and there are more than a few 500 whp mustangs that are either spraying or supercharged. Im looking for something to help me get the jump from the start. I was also thinking about trying to set up a 2-stage on my Microtech for 40 mph with the clutch engaged(instead of nitrous), is that possible? Just set the 2 stage rev limiter for the RPM Im at when doing 40? I think the car might buck hard while hitting the rev limiter with the clutch engaged just cruising along, but I have no idea.

myexlex

I would suggest using another switch for the 2stage. And you can only set it up for rpm. The reason I say to use another switch is because everytime you shift you will engage the 2 step. And its gunna buck since it cuts ign and fuel. From a 40mph you can just brake boost. Just keep the foot on the brake and wot.

DelSlow

iTrader: (2)

I wouldnt have the 2-step wired to the clutch switch, it would probably be a switch on my steering wheel. The thing is, there is only 1 aux input on the LT-8s, so its either the 2-step, or have it pull timing for the nitrous.