hey everyone,
for the past several months i been reading threads over and over again...doing massive searches...and well im finally deciding to make the decision to go single...(like we havent heard this line before) ok well im in a hard pressed position...im very intreseted in the gt35r kit...and in a very close 2nd is t78 but im loosing intrest fast because i keep hearing of full boost round 4k or higher...and im kinda keeping an eye on the 60-1 and the 40r...but i havent found much info on them to keep me happy with them.
~which ever one i choose will be on my streetported engine..with 93 octane.....and the complamenting mods aswell...my power goals are modest...i'd like to hit 400 or ***higher*** at 15psi...(like we all havent heard that either) im just wondering if this is factual and possible with the gt35r...i keep hearing yes but not actual tuners with the numbers to back it up...please help....im going nuts...i'd like to make this my winter project!!!
ps. im free from other suggestions of turbos that will yeild same or more power...
pps. i heard something about the 35r's top end sucks..?? wuts the deal with that or am i jus hearing wrong??
sniffle
ppps....sorry for double post...i put it in the wrong spot....

 

hey sorry for the triple post...comp issues...u can either reply in this on or the other...advice needed...hope i didnt annoy anyone with the posting issues

 

Why don't you get a call a couple shops and find out?

FWIW, I don't think the 35R will make 400rwhp at 15psi. You're going to need more boost to hit that. Also the 40R is pretty laggy compared to the 35R and even the T78 so you won't like that. I would say R85 but I think the lag might be more than what you want.

 

i did, i emailed the shops with my questions....i was told a range from many answers...they told me...for the gt35r i can expect with 15 psi 400+ with streetport...and i was even told by another place i would be at 420-440....this is why im asking for advice, bc im hearing alot of numbers but lacking the sheets to back them up

 

You call that modest?
Man, I hate to find out what you call not modest!


-Ted

 

lol i wonder as well

 

What shop told you they can get 440 on a 35r 15psi? Do they have proof of this?

 

FTI: People have hit 400 rwhp on bone stock engines with GT35R's@15psi.

 

There's dyno sheets on the forum to back it up, just research it.

 

Yep, lots around. I think there's a 420 something a 15 PSI too. Never seen 440, though.

I tried to dyno my stock ported reman at 14-15 PSI, but toasted the clutch on a 12 PSI run. Still managed 362 RWHP with very conservative AFRs and slipping clutch. I can't imagine not making 32 more HP with 2 or 3 more pounds of boost.

The 35R is a great, streetable turbo. Eight PSI feels like 12 on the old twins due to the increased efficienty. If desired, you can get 14 PSI by 3400 RPMs with stock ports.

For anyone considering going single remember my top 10 reasons to go single:

10. No freaking boost spiking at transition
worth the swap.
9. No busted vacuum or pressure tanks
8. No failed y-pipe/IC hose connections
7. No sticky/failing solenoids
6. No boost creep
5. No sticky or improperly ported wastegates to contend with
4. No broken actuators or missing/maladjusted acuators
3. Simplicty and elegance of design. Remember what Einstein said "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." Single turbo removal or install (once the twins are gone) takes about 1 or 1.5 hours.
2. No more rats nest or failed/cracked/popped off vacuum lines Hell that alone is worth it.

And finally, the #1 reason to go single is...big freaking HP!

Gene

 

I've saw 430 @15-16 psi..

This would be nice if a shop could gaurentee this power at 15psi.

 

Speaking of the sequential twins (may they rest in pieces), I wonder what what the "factory boost test" would look like in the service manual had they installed a big single?

Here's the 93-95 version:

93-95 RX-7
BEFORE AND AFTER SERVICE OPERATING INSPECTION

STEPS SHOULD BE DONE IN ORDER. FAILURE OF ANY STEP REQUIRES FURTHER
INSPECTION BEFORE CONTINUING.

THESE READINGS INDICATE NORMAL OPERATION
(Readings may vary with altitude and temperature)

1. CHECK FOR PCM CODES AND REPAIR AND CLEAR BEFORE ANY OTHER
PROCEDURE .

2. VERIFY ENGINE IS AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE
- REMOVE DOUBLE THROTTLE VACUUM LINE AT ACTUATOR
- AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE NO VACUUM SHOULD BE PRESENT WITH
ENGINE IDLING.

3. CHECK ENGINE VACUUM AT IDLE
- REMOVE RUBBER CAP ON EXTENSION MANIFOLD
- INSTALL VACUUM/PRESSURE GAUGE ON EXTENSION MANIFOLD
- VACUUM READING SHOULD BE ABOVE 15" W/AC OFF

4. CHECK NO LOAD OPERATION Of TURBO
- BRIEFLY ACCELERATE ENGINE TO WOT IN NEUTRAL
+4 PSI SHOULD BE OBTAINED
- WATCH THE PRECONTROL ROD FOR MOVEMENT

5. CHECK VACUUM TANK'S STORAGE ABILITY W/ENGINE OFF
- PULL OFF VACUUM HOSE AT CHARGE RELIEF ACTUATOR
- SHOULD HEAR AIR ENTERING HOSE VACUUM
- START ENGINE - BRIEFLY ACCELERATE ENGINE TO WOT IN
NEUTRAL AGAIN
- ENGINE OFF - KOKO 6 TIMES
- WATCH CHARGE CONTROL ACTUATOR WORK EACH TIME
- WATCH TURBO CONTROL ACTUATOR WORK EACH TIME

6. CHECK PRESSURE TANK'S PRESSURE STORAGE ABILITY W/ENGINE OFF
- PULL OFF FRONT HOSE OF PRESSURE TANK
- SHOULD HEAR AIR LEAVING TANK (PRESSURE)

7. ROAD TEST WITH VACUUM/PRESSURE GAUGE INSTALLED
- DRIVE TO THIRD GEAR WITH NORMAL ACCELERATION
- ACCELERATE FROM 35 MPH AT WOT UNTIL PASSING 4500 RPM
- A SLIGHT AND SMOOTH INCREASE IN POWER SHOULD BE FELT AT
APPROXIMATELY 4500 RPM. THIS WILL BE ABOUT 65 MPH.

PRIMARY - GAUGE NEEDLE SHOULD BE ABOVE 10PSI UP TO 4500 RPM

SECONDARY - NEEDLE WILL DROP TO ABOUT 8.0 PSI JUST AFTER 4500
RPM
STARTS - NEEDLE WILL THEN BEGIN RISING TOWARDS MAXIMUM BOOST
DEPENDING ON LENGTH OF TIME THROTTLE IS HELD.
- RELEASE THROTTLE

WOT = wide open throttle
KOKO = Key On Key Off



The revised, single turbo edition:

BEFORE AND AFTER SERVICE OPERATING INSPECTION

STEPS SHOULD BE DONE IN ORDER. FAILURE OF ANY STEP REQUIRES AN *** KICKING BEFORE CONTINUING.

THESE READINGS INDICATE NORMAL OPERATION
(Readings may vary with altitude, attitude, and temperature)

1. YOU PROBABLY DON'T HAVE YOU FACTORY ECU SO TO HELL WITH THE PCM CODES. IF YOU DO, YOU FAIL THE TEST AND SO WILL YOUR MOTOR. DO NO PASS GO, DO NOT COLLECT $200.

2. VERIFY ENGINE IS AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE
- REMOVE DOUBLE THROTTLE VACUUM LINE AT ACTUATOR IF YOU HAVEN'T REMOVED THE WHOLE DAMN ASSEMBLY ALREADY.

3. CHECK ENGINE VACUUM AT IDLE
- IF YOU HAVE TO REMOVE RUBBER CAP ON EXTENSION MANIFOLD TO CHECK VACUUM YOU PROBABLY DON'T HAVE A BOOST GAUGE. YOU FAIL, DUMBASS.
- VACUUM READING SHOULD BE ABOVE 15" W/AC OFF, ASSUMING YOU STILL HAVE AC AS AN OPTION.

4. **** CHECKING NO LOAD OPERATION OF TURBO. INSTEAD, HAVE A BEER OR SMOKE SOME WEED. HOWEVER, DON'T DO THIS IF YOU PLAN TO COMPLETE THIS TEST TODAY, PAL

5. SMASH THE VACUUM TANK THAT'S IN YOUR GARAGE AS YOU DON'T NEED THIS **** ANYMORE. HAVE SOME FRIENDS OVER FOR A BARBY AND GO AHEAD AND TORCH THE RAT'S NEST AS WELL. BE CREATIVE. HAVE SOME FUN.

6. HACK UP THE PRESSURE TANK WITH A CHAINSAW. ALTERNATIVELY, PACK WITH GUNPOWDER, ABELITE, AMATOL , BARATOL, AMMONIUM NITRATE, AMONIUM PERMAGENATE, B, B-3, C, C-3, C-4, PBX-N, SEMTEX, OR POLYNITROCUBANE/POLYNITROCUBANE BASED DERIVATIVES AND DISCHARGE.

7. WELD OR FASTEN A HEAVY DUTY CHAIN TO THE STOCK TWIN TURBOS AND MANIFOLD. USE AS AN ANCHOR OR FLING AROUND OVERHEAD AND RELEASE TO REMOVE SHEET ROCK IN YOUR HOUSE.

8. ROAD TEST (DO WE REALLY NEED TO MENTION THAT YOU SHOULD HAVE A VACUUM/PRESSURE GAUGE INSTALLED?)
- STEP ON GAS
- HANG ON
- WHEEL SPIN WILL ENSUE AND A KICK IN THE *** SHOULD BE FELT
- THIS **** SHOULD OCCUR WHENEVER POSSIBLE UNLESS YOU FUCKED SOMETHING UP

PRIMARY - GAUGE NEEDLE SHOULD BE ABOVE 15 PSI AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE

SECONDARY - ARE YOU KIDDING ME?

STARTS - NEEDLE WILL SHOOT TOWARDS MAXIMUM BOOST AND ALL HELL WILL BREAK LOOSE. **** BEHIND YOU SHOULD BE GETTING VERY SMALL IN YOUR REAR VIEW MIRROR. HELL, **** YOU JUST PASSED SHOULD BE DOING THE SAME OR, AGAIN, YOU FUCKED SOMETHING UP. IF **** AHEAD IS GETTING TOO LARGE TOO QUICKLY, RELEASE THROTTLE AND APPLY BRAKE....HARD.


Cheers,

Gene

 

lamo, nice

 

check out Wargasms site on Hp and maybe get a better idea of what turbo will suit your needs. Have you given any thought on the R85 kit?

 

He might not like the lag on the R85, he would like the power though.

 

what kind of mods are needed to hit the 420 area, with the 35r at 15psi with 93 oct....fmic, fuel upgrade, exhaust, pulleys...uhh rad...umm am i missing anything...?

~glass man, umm is that ture they ran over 400hp on stock engine...they use race gas???

 

I ran just above 15 psi on a new reman and made 404. Was about 16 psi. This was a pretty agressive tune. Never got it zeroed in on my ported motor before i switched turbos and motors. But I am sure you could make that power but it would be a stretch for sure on that turbo. I mean a lean tune with water injection and a large port is the only way I can think of.
Water injection makes it safer to run on the edge. Also a fine tune on the timing as well using EGT gauges on each runner. To be sure its totally zeroed in.
I would just get a bigger turbo instead of setting your goals so high on a particular turbo. Once you have felt 400 at the wheels on pump gas you will realize its more then enough for the street.

 

Was there any reason why you switched turbos?

 

Yes

 

My 7 is laying down 360 to the rear wheels, and to this day it still scares the **** out of me when I go wide open throttle.

Setting a realistic HP goal that can be acheived through a very conservative tune will yield a fun car that isn't constantly breaking down.

Just a thought

 

How is that possible? Given a weak motor, bad tuning, any countless number of variables, the only thing that can be guaranteed is the workmanship on the part. With these cars (esp modified) I am surprised there are any warranties/guarantees at all.