I was wondering just how unstreatable these really are and how much low end you lost with these? I was thinking about a BP or a PP but it will be a street car.

 

I wish I could help you, but I'm kinda wondering the same thing.

 

On a street car I would recomend a secondary one of eother cause of the idle these ports in the "full" version would cause. Alfred (soulassASS)in has the partial bridge and his car is quite streetable. Just look at the vids

 

It all depends on what your looking for, streetable is a very relative term. I personally will be running PP on next engine N/A and would prefer a combi PP for my next turbo app. I don't like the idea of BP seems like a compromise. That's just me though. A good combi PP would work well with PP's up a little higher. You have less chance of compromising the seals with PP so theoretically it should last longer, but you also are up in the revs more so you have to worry about wear.You also need a custom Intake manifold for PP.Idle on these ports as stated are not that great,your operating range for PP is going to be from 6k up and gas mileage will be non existant. Daily driver? no way. Streetable? it's relative to how crazy you are and how much you wanna spend.

 

MeLoco..
That is possibly the best reply one could have given!!!

 

Thank you

 

Well gas isnt too much of a factor for me... Its only 1.12 down here.. I was just wondering if either of these would be alright for a daily driver. I would drive it to school about every other day. The reason i bought this up is because a huge streetport isnt much less than a bridge and i realy didnt know the benifits and losses of a bridge port.

 

Both the PP and BP are perfectly capable of being physically driven on the street, but "streetability" really needs to take other factors into consideration. What induction and exhaust will you be running? A carb fed engine will have a rough idle, be unable to hold a smooth constant engine speed and normally have poor transition off idle. Aftermarket efi will give better idle, cruise and power - but costs more. Potentially a lot more. THe exhaust is crucial in achieving a good power output, and the more back pressure the lower the power until you start having less power than a large extended port. (And a sorted extended port can perform better than a choked or unsorted BP or PP). So you need a good flowing exhaust to realise your power ambitions, but that will be noisey, possibly too loud for legal use (the limit here where I live is 96db measured 1metre from the tip... and a pp realistically can't achieve that and still flow). So you will be pissing off your neighbours and likely giving yourself a headaches from the low level droning noise.
To put the power down and get the real rotary acceleration benefits you need a very solid clutch and a short diff ratio, so gear changes will be harsh and the car will be revving hard and high when cruising.
Will you be driving in the wet or across loose surfaces? A light, peaky car with a short diff with be all over the road like a dog on wet lino... (not that this isn't fun).
I had a 13b bp as a daily driver in my rx2. It was weber-ed and made about 101db (or so... ). I ended up pulling the engine and going for a stock one after I got a noise defect from vehicle inspectors and because the harsh ride kept making my young son throw up every morning (which is fine for a supermodel, but not for a 2 or 3 year old...)

Expect these issues, and if you are fine with them, go for it!

Oh, 2 more things; a big ported engines can foul plugs when cold at idle, so if you live somewhere cold be ready to have to change them regularly. And speaking of cold, webers don't have a choke cable... so keeping them running can be "fun".

But the look on the faces of people who have just been whipped by the ported rotary can be worth all of the hassle!

 

Well if what all you said is true then i think i will just stay with my present idea and get a street ported engine. I dont know the laws around her for sound but with where i live im sure people would get pissed. And as far as the efi part of it it would be on a 13b 3rd gen so i dont have to worry about that. Thanks for the help guys.. You have answered alot of questions

 

Hey that's what MSD ignitions are for! Never ever had a cold start problem once I put in the MSD.

FWIW, DCOE carbies have choke mechanisms but people don't seem to run them for serious performance, probably because the manifolds suck? Weber IDFs also have chokes, unlike the IDAs, but I never hear of people running IDFs on rotaries... seems like it could be a good idea, but there's probably something I'm missing. Another advantage for the IDF is that it's still in production, so you don't have to sell a kidney and your firstborn to buy one.

 

there are manifold available to adapt an ida style base to the side draft carb / throttle body (dcoe, dll'orto, etc) - they can work well, but the ida's really do seem to be the pick of the bunch.
Actually some workshops claim superior performance with two, dual downdraft webers due to better throttle response...
the gun set up for an NA bridge port is apparently 4 throttle inlets on an adjustable length inlet manifold (to tune for torque) with injectors placed over the top of the inlet trumpet andfired sequentially using a MoTec, sitting in a optimum sized and light weight plenum with a very large hi flowing filter a good distance away - they guy who outline it to me claimed just under 30hp more on the same engine (around 324 flywheel hp) over a 51ida and around 20hp more than a dual throat throttle body. This is NOT a cheap set up and is for a racing class that strictly control the size of the bridgeport and vehicle modifications.