Passing emissions
10-08-07, 03:44 PM
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Passing emissions
Ok im going to have to pass a rater stringent emission test with my FD. Im running a GT35r T3 0,84 turbo have removed all the original emissions equipment. So now i need some help as to which catalyst's the best choice. Im also thinking of insulating the dp and midpipe down to the catalyst to improve cold engine conditions. Any thoughts on this? Would running waterinjection enable me to run leaner? If im able to run stoic conditions pre boost and as close as possible to 1:14 at boost wouldn't that give me better emissions? Is this at all feasible? Im not planing on running high boost on this max 10 psi, also im going to put the revlimiter to about 8000 to keep hp down (I have to pay for hp increase in Norway 
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10-09-07, 08:28 AM
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I think I need to rephrase myself.
Would running water injection allow me to run lean under boost, if not will it allow me to lean out the fuel mix I boost or not, remember im only looking to make max 10 psi of boost.
Also would heat wrapping the exhaust help the cat to warm up earlier thus lowering my emission? Im going to be measured in g/km not % so every little bit helps.
Does anyone know which cat would give me the best reduction in Co and NOx nr? I know there are different types of cats that are supposed to be better than others like the Walker Ultra universal on. I really don’t care about restriction
Any kind of thoughts / input in the matter would be greatly appreciated
Would running water injection allow me to run lean under boost, if not will it allow me to lean out the fuel mix I boost or not, remember im only looking to make max 10 psi of boost.
Also would heat wrapping the exhaust help the cat to warm up earlier thus lowering my emission? Im going to be measured in g/km not % so every little bit helps.
Does anyone know which cat would give me the best reduction in Co and NOx nr? I know there are different types of cats that are supposed to be better than others like the Walker Ultra universal on. I really don’t care about restriction
Any kind of thoughts / input in the matter would be greatly appreciated
10-09-07, 01:28 PM
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I would not worry about wrapping your exhaust, just make sure your car is nice and warmed up. Follow the standard emissions suggestions that go along with piston cars. Low octane, nice and warm, good gas cap and no warning lights showing on the dash.
10-09-07, 01:45 PM
#4
Wargasm had once posted some good info on passing emissions. Might want to search for it and other threads on the topic in this and other sub forums.
Running water injection probably won't help unless they are checking emissions at full throttle. Exhaust wrap again probably won't help.
Running water injection probably won't help unless they are checking emissions at full throttle. Exhaust wrap again probably won't help.
10-09-07, 01:52 PM
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what all are they going to test? do they just do a strict tailpipe sniffer? You generally can pass thosewith a functioning cat and an airpump. Just about any functioning cat should do the trick. you can also use an electric airpump to save you the hassels of installing the stock one. Couldnt you just set your boost controller to 5 pounds of boost for the emissions test and crank it back up as soon as you leave?
10-09-07, 04:53 PM
#6
In Ontario here there's only three things they actually do:
1) Visual. Does the car have a cat? Does the car have exhaust leaks? all that BS
2) Tailpipe sniffer Idle test. Does the car idle at an acceptable (close to stock) level? 1000-1500rpm idles generally pop red flags.
3) Tailpipe sniffer Curb idle - rolling up to approx. 2000rpm testing tailpipe emissions.
The European tests are similar with more strict numbers only (actual tailpipe emissions) when compared to the same model/year in Canada.
Best advice I can think of would be to run an ignition amp to allow you to tune the idle AFR's closer to stoich. And having a brand new cat and functional air pump will be required.
If your cat and airpump are both working properly and your car isn't insanely rich at idle you should be fine. Also, providing the car idles properly RPM wise and doesn't hunt.
No need to muck with you boost controller, they won't even rev it that high to test it.
1) Visual. Does the car have a cat? Does the car have exhaust leaks? all that BS
2) Tailpipe sniffer Idle test. Does the car idle at an acceptable (close to stock) level? 1000-1500rpm idles generally pop red flags.
3) Tailpipe sniffer Curb idle - rolling up to approx. 2000rpm testing tailpipe emissions.
The European tests are similar with more strict numbers only (actual tailpipe emissions) when compared to the same model/year in Canada.
Best advice I can think of would be to run an ignition amp to allow you to tune the idle AFR's closer to stoich. And having a brand new cat and functional air pump will be required.
If your cat and airpump are both working properly and your car isn't insanely rich at idle you should be fine. Also, providing the car idles properly RPM wise and doesn't hunt.
No need to muck with you boost controller, they won't even rev it that high to test it.
10-10-07, 03:26 AM
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The emission test i want to pass is a full emission test where they measure all the exhaust on a roller. If im not to much mistaken they collect all the exhaust and then analyze it, ill probably won't get a chance to warm the car prior to the test. Again this is way stricter that the normal emissions test i would have to pass here. I have to go to certain labs in Germany to have it done.
As to why im going to do this, well Norwegian car autorites are rather ****. I have yet to see any approved single turbo rxs here, and if you happen to crash and they catch you with a not approved car your insurance might become void, and they'll stick you with a BIG fine on top as well. Just had an example of a guy crashing a car with 150 hp more than stock. Insurance was worth ****, about 60 000$ in fines and got some jail time (he did do more tha just crash but i don't know what)
As to why im going to do this, well Norwegian car autorites are rather ****. I have yet to see any approved single turbo rxs here, and if you happen to crash and they catch you with a not approved car your insurance might become void, and they'll stick you with a BIG fine on top as well. Just had an example of a guy crashing a car with 150 hp more than stock. Insurance was worth ****, about 60 000$ in fines and got some jail time (he did do more tha just crash but i don't know what)
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