I have a 1988 turbo FC. Only running 5psi on my haltech to4b 60-1 I was hitting >250°F. What are the normal track temps? It was cool out too! I did a quick search and found nothing.

What can I do to fix this. Would installing a fan on the oil cooler help in any way? I think maybe my Greddy VSPL FMIC is taking to much air

 

***ding ding ding ding***

if you're ambitious, grab 2 oil coolers and put them in the brake ducts.

or run dual fc coolers, one on top of the other, and either chop up your front bumper, or get one with more air flow.

 

or if you would like and have the amprage for it, there are 7" fans you can get from summit racing that you could somehow fit to the oil cooler to cool things off. I was thinking about doing this but then descided to get a new oil cooler first because i shouldn't get to 230 temps only while driving 'spiritedly'

 

do you have your undertray on? maybe you need to build some ducting to get some air on your oil cooler

 

how were the water temps?

 

250F is too hot.
Only the most robust synths can handle temps like that.


-Ted

 

I am having similar issues, however before installing a second oil cooler, I will relocate the factory one in front of the intercooler. Will post results in a month

 

Ok. I was gone for the past few days.

Coolant temp seemed ok based on the stock gauge. Never hooked up the computer to see what the haltech read.

Stock undertray is still installed.

I was thinking of the parrallel twin stock oil cooler setup but figure if I have to get another one and run new fittings etc I should just use a new bigger better one with a twin fan set up?

http://www.bakerprecision.com/setrab.htm


http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product

 

you sure there is nothing wrong with your tstat in the oil cooler? Or have you had it flushed?

 

I had it flushed and tstat removed and the hole in the cooler blocked.

 

Dual stock FC oil coolers, proper ducting and you are set.

 

so by the hole in the cooler blocked do you mean that just the hole where the tstat was or do you mean that the little rod that comes up and fits in there to let the oil pass through is blocked? If you don't do it right your oil will bypass the oil cooler and not cool. I'm sure you know that though.

 

Ian, I created the same thread sometime ago asking the very same question. Good points were brought up but I never pursued the e-fan just yet. I'd Imagine that when my FC Is up and running again I will be faced with this again.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/e-fan-s-oil-cooler-has-been-done-322164/

 

We just had driftchallenge weekend, 2 days of beating up the car and oil temps have not went higher than 100C in my car. On highway, i am staying in 70-80C range, whenever cruising or boosting, as long as car is moving forward and there is airflow.

 

fans? or just really good ducting?

 

Do you have pics higgi?

 

no additional fans for oil coolers, but ducting for area works good

 

ducting :

 

hahaha nice! dual oil coolers kick ***! I just may do that to my car. nice underbelly tray as well!

 

Impressive pics. I like how the Oil Coolers stack up on top of each other! I maybe using this type of setup If I cannot find a simpler way of reducing my temps.

 

just for info, both oil coolers do have original thermostats in place and working.......

 

did you keep the oil t-stat?

 

um...................wacky you are a bit wacky!

 

lol. did see his comment. my bad.

I did the same way before but I took one of the t-stats out and plugged up the by-pass. then I switched to a RX-2 oil cooler for secondary. Rx-2's t-stat is in the oil inlet fitting, not internal. Now, Im back to single OC since its useless for street car.

 

Higgi, that is a nice job on the install and great work on the ducting.

I almsot did the same setup as you basically.
My only complaint about that setup is that the coolers are run in series instead of parallel and also that only one of them is getting fresh air, further reducing the effectiveness of the secondary cooler beyond its disadvantage of running in series.

Not to mention that it is one more thing in front of the radiator.

Here is what I ended up doing.
I used a fluidyne oil cooler which is much thicker and has more surface area than the stock oil cooler. Also it has a better endtank and fin design along with more rows. I also ran a remote t-stat since this car also sees the street along with road courses.

This fluidyne cooler has been proven by several racers to cool better than two factory oil coolers run in either series or parallel. It was installed in the facory location with the original mounts turned around.

I made the ducting and designed it to come apart in less that one minute. Six camlocks hold the undertray on (two to the sidepanels and one to the radiator on each side) and one bolt each for the side panel secures it to the underside of the frame rail. Not pictured is the fiberglas splitter.