Oil temps over 250°F in a few laps?
#1
Oil temps over 250°F in a few laps?
I have a 1988 turbo FC. Only running 5psi on my haltech to4b 60-1 I was hitting >250°F. What are the normal track temps? It was cool out too! I did a quick search and found nothing.
What can I do to fix this. Would installing a fan on the oil cooler help in any way? I think maybe my Greddy VSPL FMIC is taking to much air
What can I do to fix this. Would installing a fan on the oil cooler help in any way? I think maybe my Greddy VSPL FMIC is taking to much air
#2
multipersonality disorder
Join Date: Feb 2002
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Originally Posted by IAN
I think maybe my Greddy VSPL FMIC is taking to much air
***ding ding ding ding***
if you're ambitious, grab 2 oil coolers and put them in the brake ducts.
or run dual fc coolers, one on top of the other, and either chop up your front bumper, or get one with more air flow.
#3
spending too much money..
iTrader: (2)
or if you would like and have the amprage for it, there are 7" fans you can get from summit racing that you could somehow fit to the oil cooler to cool things off. I was thinking about doing this but then descided to get a new oil cooler first because i shouldn't get to 230 temps only while driving 'spiritedly'
#7
B O R I C U A
iTrader: (14)
Originally Posted by IAN
I have a 1988 turbo FC. Only running 5psi on my haltech to4b 60-1 I was hitting >250°F. What are the normal track temps? It was cool out too! I did a quick search and found nothing.
What can I do to fix this. Would installing a fan on the oil cooler help in any way? I think maybe my Greddy VSPL FMIC is taking to much air
What can I do to fix this. Would installing a fan on the oil cooler help in any way? I think maybe my Greddy VSPL FMIC is taking to much air
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#8
Ok. I was gone for the past few days.
Coolant temp seemed ok based on the stock gauge. Never hooked up the computer to see what the haltech read.
Stock undertray is still installed.
I was thinking of the parrallel twin stock oil cooler setup but figure if I have to get another one and run new fittings etc I should just use a new bigger better one with a twin fan set up?
http://www.bakerprecision.com/setrab.htm
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product
Coolant temp seemed ok based on the stock gauge. Never hooked up the computer to see what the haltech read.
Stock undertray is still installed.
I was thinking of the parrallel twin stock oil cooler setup but figure if I have to get another one and run new fittings etc I should just use a new bigger better one with a twin fan set up?
http://www.bakerprecision.com/setrab.htm
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product
#11
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
Originally Posted by IAN
I have a 1988 turbo FC. Only running 5psi on my haltech to4b 60-1 I was hitting >250°F. What are the normal track temps? It was cool out too! I did a quick search and found nothing.
What can I do to fix this. Would installing a fan on the oil cooler help in any way? I think maybe my Greddy VSPL FMIC is taking to much air
What can I do to fix this. Would installing a fan on the oil cooler help in any way? I think maybe my Greddy VSPL FMIC is taking to much air
#12
spending too much money..
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by IAN
I had it flushed and tstat removed and the hole in the cooler blocked.
#13
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Ian, I created the same thread sometime ago asking the very same question. Good points were brought up but I never pursued the e-fan just yet. I'd Imagine that when my FC Is up and running again I will be faced with this again.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/e-fan-s-oil-cooler-has-been-done-322164/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/e-fan-s-oil-cooler-has-been-done-322164/
#15
spending too much money..
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by hIGGI
We just had driftchallenge weekend, 2 days of beating up the car and oil temps have not went higher than 100C in my car. On highway, i am staying in 70-80C range, whenever cruising or boosting, as long as car is moving forward and there is airflow.
fans? or just really good ducting?
#16
Originally Posted by hIGGI
We just had driftchallenge weekend, 2 days of beating up the car and oil temps have not went higher than 100C in my car. On highway, i am staying in 70-80C range, whenever cruising or boosting, as long as car is moving forward and there is airflow.
#24
RX for fun
iTrader: (13)
Originally Posted by hondahater
um...................wacky you are a bit wacky!
I did the same way before but I took one of the t-stats out and plugged up the by-pass. then I switched to a RX-2 oil cooler for secondary. Rx-2's t-stat is in the oil inlet fitting, not internal. Now, Im back to single OC since its useless for street car.
#25
I'll blow it up real good
iTrader: (1)
Higgi, that is a nice job on the install and great work on the ducting.
I almsot did the same setup as you basically.
My only complaint about that setup is that the coolers are run in series instead of parallel and also that only one of them is getting fresh air, further reducing the effectiveness of the secondary cooler beyond its disadvantage of running in series.
Not to mention that it is one more thing in front of the radiator.
Here is what I ended up doing.
I used a fluidyne oil cooler which is much thicker and has more surface area than the stock oil cooler. Also it has a better endtank and fin design along with more rows. I also ran a remote t-stat since this car also sees the street along with road courses.
This fluidyne cooler has been proven by several racers to cool better than two factory oil coolers run in either series or parallel. It was installed in the facory location with the original mounts turned around.
I made the ducting and designed it to come apart in less that one minute. Six camlocks hold the undertray on (two to the sidepanels and one to the radiator on each side) and one bolt each for the side panel secures it to the underside of the frame rail. Not pictured is the fiberglas splitter.
I almsot did the same setup as you basically.
My only complaint about that setup is that the coolers are run in series instead of parallel and also that only one of them is getting fresh air, further reducing the effectiveness of the secondary cooler beyond its disadvantage of running in series.
Not to mention that it is one more thing in front of the radiator.
Here is what I ended up doing.
I used a fluidyne oil cooler which is much thicker and has more surface area than the stock oil cooler. Also it has a better endtank and fin design along with more rows. I also ran a remote t-stat since this car also sees the street along with road courses.
This fluidyne cooler has been proven by several racers to cool better than two factory oil coolers run in either series or parallel. It was installed in the facory location with the original mounts turned around.
I made the ducting and designed it to come apart in less that one minute. Six camlocks hold the undertray on (two to the sidepanels and one to the radiator on each side) and one bolt each for the side panel secures it to the underside of the frame rail. Not pictured is the fiberglas splitter.