E-Fan(s) for Oil Cooler - has It been done?
06-28-04, 10:37 PM
#1
E-Fan(s) for Oil Cooler - has It been done?
My Oil Temps are way to high. With the addition of the GReddy FMIC Kit my temps are 230F consistently. I had removed and cleaned out my Oil Cooler to find It was plugged. I sourced out an A1 one that I thoroughly cleaned out, straightened out the fins and even polished up abit. It also passed the blow test. Temps are consistently high.
I'm trying to track down a source for one or two e-fans for the Oil Cooler that really pull. Has anyone done this before? Pics? Simular temps for thise running the same Kit?
I'm trying to track down a source for one or two e-fans for the Oil Cooler that really pull. Has anyone done this before? Pics? Simular temps for thise running the same Kit?
06-28-04, 10:45 PM
#2
Locust of the apocalypse
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I hate to sound stupid.. but where are you gettiing your temps from??? The factory Oil Cooler is on of the best i've seen...
Have you thought about ducting air in from a low profile scoop on the belly pan????
Have you thought about ducting air in from a low profile scoop on the belly pan????
06-28-04, 10:52 PM
#3
Not a stupid question at all. I have a dedicated Guage that I've been cockeyeing as of recent. 
Yes, the factory Oil Cooler Is the best around but It's the FMIC that Is creating havoc. I've gotten my Water Temps down significantly but the Oil Temps are right up there.
Inspite of the Thermovalve passing the test via FSM with flying colours I shimmed It to have It functioning In the open position at all times.
In case any one wants to know the blow test It Is as follows:
-remove Oil Cooler off car
-remove Thermovalve and the feed/return lines
-jam your finger In the Thermovalve opening and plug up the hole that seperates the top/bottom of the Oil Cooler
-Awhile having the hole plugged - blow through the Inlet hole (top). Air should blow out consistently and relatively easy.
Being that Oil Is thicker than air - besure to have the as little Oil In the Cooler as possible.
Yes, the factory Oil Cooler Is the best around but It's the FMIC that Is creating havoc. I've gotten my Water Temps down significantly but the Oil Temps are right up there.
Inspite of the Thermovalve passing the test via FSM with flying colours I shimmed It to have It functioning In the open position at all times.
In case any one wants to know the blow test It Is as follows:
-remove Oil Cooler off car
-remove Thermovalve and the feed/return lines
-jam your finger In the Thermovalve opening and plug up the hole that seperates the top/bottom of the Oil Cooler
-Awhile having the hole plugged - blow through the Inlet hole (top). Air should blow out consistently and relatively easy.
Being that Oil Is thicker than air - besure to have the as little Oil In the Cooler as possible.
06-28-04, 10:57 PM
#4
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actually, i meant.. are you sure the gauge sender unit is directly AFTER the cooler???? Cause, I'd like to put one in myself, but, I have -10 an braided lines and don't know how to rig up a sending unit to the return line.. do they make a fitting to put inline??
06-28-04, 11:29 PM
#5
I have It tapped Into my Oil Pedestal. My Oil Temps tend to be consistent with those running the same FMIC as I have.
Where can I get fans that allow mounting on the Oil Cooler? I went to Flex-A-Lite's site, for example to no avail. High CFM's needed.
Where can I get fans that allow mounting on the Oil Cooler? I went to Flex-A-Lite's site, for example to no avail. High CFM's needed.
06-28-04, 11:56 PM
#6
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a friend of mine put 3 computer fans on his oil cooler. he's got a fmic, and his oil temps were high too. the fans helped out a lot
06-29-04, 12:18 AM
#7
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Ya know... I bet those Volcano fans that I have on my CPU would work... that thing screams like a banshee.. and its 12V!!!!
Thermaltake makes a 4,800 RPM 80mm fans for about 7 bucks... but i think 120mm would be better, I have one on my case and it pulls some air... 3-4 of those on the back of the cooler might do the trick... i don't think the 2600 rpm fans are gonna pull enough air.
OR.. you could try the small acessory fan from a stock A/C system.. might have to fab up some ductwork cause its bigger than the cooler i think.
Thermaltake makes a 4,800 RPM 80mm fans for about 7 bucks... but i think 120mm would be better, I have one on my case and it pulls some air... 3-4 of those on the back of the cooler might do the trick... i don't think the 2600 rpm fans are gonna pull enough air.
OR.. you could try the small acessory fan from a stock A/C system.. might have to fab up some ductwork cause its bigger than the cooler i think.
Last edited by YearsOfDecay; 06-29-04 at 12:22 AM.
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06-29-04, 12:35 AM
#10
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something like this http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/delffb1212eh.html
Last edited by pinkfloyd; 06-29-04 at 12:40 AM.
06-29-04, 01:13 AM
#15
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Hey Silver...
Are you doing a lot of idling/or under 40 MPH driving?
My oil and water temps went up a little when I had the FMIC and 13BT in my vert, but nothing like what you are seeing.
But then most of my driving is at 55+ MPH
Are you doing a lot of idling/or under 40 MPH driving?
My oil and water temps went up a little when I had the FMIC and 13BT in my vert, but nothing like what you are seeing.
But then most of my driving is at 55+ MPH
06-29-04, 02:28 AM
#16
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Originally posted by silverrotor
Inspite of the Thermovalve passing the test via FSM with flying colours I shimmed It to have It functioning In the open position at all times.
Inspite of the Thermovalve passing the test via FSM with flying colours I shimmed It to have It functioning In the open position at all times.
Originally posted by j9fd3s
a friend of mine put 3 computer fans on his oil cooler.
a friend of mine put 3 computer fans on his oil cooler.
YearsOfDecay has made the best suggestion. Find some way to duct air around the FMIC to the oil cooler.
06-29-04, 04:40 PM
#19
At Idle with the Hood open my Oil Temps are at around 180F. I can't Idle to much with the Hood closed or else....even on the highway my Oil Temps Is 215-230F. I'm not even pushing It as I'm going easy on my fresh rebuild.
I shimmed the Thermovalve so that It would not be proned to failer. The Thermovalve activity Is equivalant to the Thermostat found at the Water Pump. I don't see any negating factors encompassing this mod considering my Oil Temps are brutally high to begin with.
I still think the Idea of an e-fan would be best suited for this application. I'll have to look over Sumitt again. If the e-fan Is not weather proof than I don't want to see myself rigging up a future setup - again.
Perhaps any of my Lubrication Mods below are the culprit or catalyst, w/ the obvious addition of the FMIC?
New Oil Pump assembly, #200 Weber Jets, RB Baffle Plate, RB Street Pressure Regulator, RB Oil Cooler Lines,
shimmed Thermovalve, dummy Pellet at the E-Shaft and In A1 shape Oil Cooler.
I shimmed the Thermovalve so that It would not be proned to failer. The Thermovalve activity Is equivalant to the Thermostat found at the Water Pump. I don't see any negating factors encompassing this mod considering my Oil Temps are brutally high to begin with.
I still think the Idea of an e-fan would be best suited for this application. I'll have to look over Sumitt again. If the e-fan Is not weather proof than I don't want to see myself rigging up a future setup - again.
Perhaps any of my Lubrication Mods below are the culprit or catalyst, w/ the obvious addition of the FMIC?
New Oil Pump assembly, #200 Weber Jets, RB Baffle Plate, RB Street Pressure Regulator, RB Oil Cooler Lines,
shimmed Thermovalve, dummy Pellet at the E-Shaft and In A1 shape Oil Cooler.
Last edited by silverrotor; 06-29-04 at 04:42 PM.
06-29-04, 11:00 PM
#20
Originally posted by NZConvertible
That won't have any effect on the cooling ability of the oil cooler, since the bypass is closed once the oil reaches 140-150degF. All your mod will do is slow the rate the oil heats up from cold, which is a bad thing. You should really undo this...
That won't have any effect on the cooling ability of the oil cooler, since the bypass is closed once the oil reaches 140-150degF. All your mod will do is slow the rate the oil heats up from cold, which is a bad thing. You should really undo this...
06-30-04, 12:26 AM
#22
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
Computer fans designed to be used inside dry computer cases. Anything mounted on the oil cooler will need to be completely weatherproof if you expect them to last. They might help oil cooling, but not for long.
YearsOfDecay has made the best suggestion. Find some way to duct air around the FMIC to the oil cooler.
Computer fans designed to be used inside dry computer cases. Anything mounted on the oil cooler will need to be completely weatherproof if you expect them to last. They might help oil cooling, but not for long.
YearsOfDecay has made the best suggestion. Find some way to duct air around the FMIC to the oil cooler.
the 1st gens, with the stacked oil and water coolers, work nice because the fan shroud covers them both....
06-30-04, 12:34 AM
#23
Originally posted by NZConvertible
=
Computer fans designed to be used inside dry computer cases. Anything mounted on the oil cooler will need to be completely weatherproof if you expect them to last. They might help oil cooling, but not for long.
YearsOfDecay has made the best suggestion. Find some way to duct air around the FMIC to the oil cooler.
=
Computer fans designed to be used inside dry computer cases. Anything mounted on the oil cooler will need to be completely weatherproof if you expect them to last. They might help oil cooling, but not for long.
YearsOfDecay has made the best suggestion. Find some way to duct air around the FMIC to the oil cooler.
These can easily take the abuse and moisture we would see on a car. Minus the rocks....
Whoever recommended thermaltake- those fans are crap- and the delta "hair dryer" fans are louder then my car idling. Remember when you use a computer fan or any fan you signficantly limit the performance where forced air is introduced. It can lead to either blocking the oil cooler even worse, or burning out the fans because they can no move the air fast enough.
Ducting outside air is a good idea, its just getting the fans on the radiator to "pull" the air through sitting idle and at low speeds.
