I have just purchased a '94 FD that has been modified a bit. I have a list of modifications that I can post up, but my main concern was, being a single turbo conversion, the Microtech LTX8 stand-alone is needed. No biggie right? Well I have absolutely no experience with a complete stand-alone and would like some help in what to look for and what is good/bad as far as the readings go. I'm mechanically/technologically sound and have completely rebuilt piston engines before but I'm a fish out of water when it comes to rotary. I have an idea of how it works, just not fully grasping the specs. Here is the list of the modifications that I can tell (receipts of labor done at Japtrix, Inc)...

single turbo 60-1
micro tech LTX8
GREDDY front mount intercooler
GREDDY hyper extreme exhaust
GREDDY Profec B boost controller
GREDDY 60mm boost gauge
GREDDY 60mm egt gauge
volks rims 17x8 front 17x10 rear
toyo proxes tires
koyo radiator
tokico shocks 5 way adjustable
eibach springs
cross drilled rotors
exterior wastgate
down pipe & mid pipe


Any help in general or specific to the question above would be much appreciated!

 

Find a reputable tunner and have it checked for proper tune and then you will know were you stand ontil then your in the dark! Oh take it easy on boost until you know if your good to go.

 

I haven't driven the car other than to bring it home. I still have a dd as of right now but once I find out exactly where I stand with the rex, it will become my every day toy.

The car runs 9psi or 15psi on the tune as of right now (thanks to the previous owner and Japtrix, Inc) and I don't want to touch a thing as far as the tune is right now. I just want to be proficient enough to solve a problem should one arise. I'm guessing the A/F ratio is controlled by the LTX8 and I want to make sure I can monitor it regularly before any problems arise.

 

Get a wide band if it doesant have one already! Sounds like a fun ride1

 

I figured that the LTX8 would compensate for the wideband. I plug my laptop up, have the tables up on screen, and check the ratios at different throttle points. That's how it is supposed to work theoretically correct? I just would get confused watching numbers appear on the screen if I don't know what they mean

 

An afr gauge gives you real time reading of what your doing at all times with out needing to try and watch a laptop while your driving.
Reasons for gauge: fuel filter stopping up, fuel injectors not functioning right, fuel pump/pumps failing, air/fuel ratio climbing into danger zone, and im sure there is more.
I run 11.1 afr at wide open throttle and watch it like a hawk and on the highway it cruses at 15.1 and 22 mpg with 500h/p.

 

Well thank you. As soon as possible I will take care of that. At 9psi with a moderate street port, the car is pushing 315-325hp to the wheels and at 15psi I'm sure much more. There is going to be a Rotorfest in Central Florida coming up and they are going to have a dyno day so perhaps I will show up and see what it can do. I have no idea how the fuel economy looks at the moment, I don't have much experience with it yet. Hopefully more than you if you are pushing 500

 

Fuel milage is controled by your right foot!
I get 20-22 mpg at 75-80 mph with the cruse on, but thats with 15.1 afr.
wot its 11.1 and there goes the gas!!!!$$$$$