need to know if i need more parts for 600hp
12-30-08, 02:55 AM
#28
Stay tuned...
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Also, at 600HP those 300m axles will be ok but you will break the cups that go in the rear. At 500HP nothing broke in my car, as soon as I got closer to 600, things started breaking left and right.
Anthony
12-30-08, 03:33 PM
#30
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not a bad idea. because i do mostly street racing other than track (but i will be doing track often) but be aware that my turbo is custom made (the exhaust housing is from a t51r)
my major problem doing a 40roll with 600hp is traction. We have a civic here with a k20 trapping 140 in the quarter, with slicks and it still gets beat by 500hp evos. so i want to be able to use the power & not just have it. Its sad when traction is the issue, makes you look slower than you are
my major problem doing a 40roll with 600hp is traction. We have a civic here with a k20 trapping 140 in the quarter, with slicks and it still gets beat by 500hp evos. so i want to be able to use the power & not just have it. Its sad when traction is the issue, makes you look slower than you are
12-30-08, 04:27 PM
#31
Just turn up the boost!
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we've been dealing with that problem for years that's why i always run fat drag radials on the street, they only last a couple oil changes but that's how it goes hahaha oh and stock suspension for ultimate weight transfer (i have an fc tho)
that's why i always run fat drag radials on the street, they only last a couple oil changes but that's how it goes hahaha oh and stock suspension for ultimate weight transfer (i have an fc tho)
12-30-08, 06:12 PM
#32
Will work for horsepower
Yea traction its a good thing!
I run the et street's and skinnies on the street, then when season is over i run the nitto nto1's with 100 tread wear and take it easy when its cold as they act like ice until there warm!
I run the et street's and skinnies on the street, then when season is over i run the nitto nto1's with 100 tread wear and take it easy when its cold as they act like ice until there warm!
01-03-09, 10:18 PM
#37
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High 11s on gas, mid 12s on E85. I spent some time getting them to idle in the high 13s and rock steady but as soon as I went to drive off I realized that I did not have enough fuel, the car stuttered. I had to add back fuel to get used to the 11s.
Anthony
Anthony
01-16-09, 12:18 PM
#38
Do not forget to get the Aeromotive regulator for your a1000 pump or you will burn the pump pretty fast on daily driving for what I have heard. And yes whitey85mtu is right, the Ground Zero ( or excessive motorsport) LIM would be a great addition to your engine.
Leo
Leo
01-20-09, 06:40 PM
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Recommend the PF Supecars rear diff cradle for heavy drag racing and launches, from experience, I broke my diff completely in half when the pinion started to climb and had no where to go but out.
Recommend the DSS axles and cups for 600+whp
Factory driveshaft is ok but upgrades are never bad
A good tuner, right setup and appropriate fuel for application
Recommend the DSS axles and cups for 600+whp
Factory driveshaft is ok but upgrades are never bad
A good tuner, right setup and appropriate fuel for application
01-20-09, 08:26 PM
#43
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well i got the 2 1600 primarys with the primary rail all thanks to kgparts. so the car goes in friday for the s4 rotors. and hopefully ill hit 500 before 20lbs & 600 before 27
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