Romanator

iTrader: (13)

I have an S4 block, HBP on top of large street port, 9.4:1 rotors, RA seals, mazda oem springs, FD oil system, FD stationary gears, e-shaft oil mods, Mazda Racing Pulleys,all necessary mods for a bridgeport turbo setup, Haltech E6X, stock CAS, stock coils, internal 2.5bar Map sensor, all emissions removed, running premix, etc.

Yesterday I was able to get the motor to crank and start after a year and a half of being stored. DAAAAAAAAAMMNN did it ever smoke. Now while my friend is cranking the key, I'm turning the CAS to try and get the motor to start. To get it to start, the CAS has to be turned all the way counterclockwise and I slowly turn it clockwise until the motor roars, smokes like an oil refinery and backfires sound like gun shots.

My freind has to hold the gas at minimum 3000 rpm so it dosent die.

We did a free-air calibration for the wideband LC-1, we loaded a base map for the haltech that we downloaded from claudio RX-7 on the haltech forum.
Now we want the motor to idle so we can check the timing with the timing light. How can we do that if already we're having a hard time keeping the motor alive below 3000 rpm ?

Also the fact that the motor is a bridgeport I know the idle will always be lumpy but I want a good timing to be done so I can drive it. Because I have an appointment on July 19 for a dyno tuning by Ari Yallon and it's a good 45 minute highway drive. I DONT WANT TO PAY A TOWING.

I need advice and suggestions of what to do and what not to do !

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

uncheck the box for fuel (under fuel setup).

LOCK THE TIMING!

Turn it over and watch the timing.

If it's not turning over fast jsut remove the lower or Top spark plugs that you aren't using.

Once that is done rotate your cas until you get the correct timing marks.

Then unlock your timing once you are done.

This is more of a haltech question and should probably be moved to that section.

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

I got all my main, ignition, and trigger setups from the hitman rx7 web site.
But there's no info on the fuel setup and input/output setups, what do I do there ???

Also what do I do in the options menu, I have idle speed control, Injector trims, ignition quick map, closed loop o2,etc.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

cThe site also has timing.

I recommend taking the top off the CAS to make sure you stabbed it right.

Focus on the basics - You can idle fine with out the idle speed control and the injector trims just adjust fuel betwen your front/rear rotors (like the LIM design that allows a rotor to flow more air)

a basic map should get you close. The trick is most the maps are on a 3bar sensor. I had to take one and modify it for a 2.5bar internal sensor. Your fuel will be off by quite a bit if you just try to use a 3bar map on a 2.5bar input. It scales it but is off (transition point is wrong too).

On the FC you most likely will not use input/outputs

the only thing you will have to change is the stagging bar if you converted a 3 bar to 2.5.... otherwise there is not alot of fuel settings (stagging of course)

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

I dont know if this is a big deal. But I dont have stock pulleys I have Mazda racing pulleys and there are no yellow or red dots. I have multiple timing marks in increments of 5 degrees, from 0 - 30 degrees BTC. And 1 extra mark more or less 15 degrees after all those timing marks, I'm assuming it's for the trailing side ? http://www.upgrademotoring.com/perfo...treetpully.htm

Has anyone tried with MR pulleys before, can someone help me out here ?

ziig

iTrader: (1)

i had major problems with RB pullies once....had to wipe them and redo the markings.....even the guys at RB admitted it was a pain as the pullies are set up for all out race cars and timing may be different...
I think the advice abovve is best...recheck basics...timing is simthing you can average with your marks...but make sure your on number one compression, and take cover off and restabe cas....you should just need it to be center for a start...then you can see where you fall on your pullies and make adjustemnt s to suit

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

On the Racing beat web site I found no pulliess. My pullies are MR (Mazda Racing)

How can I average the timing on my pullies when my marks are 0 - 30 degrees BTDC, compared to the mazda manual where it says leading spark is set to 5 degrees ATDC, and trailling spark is 20 degrees ATDC ?

I need to know what are the values that I have to set in the haltech software ?
I am talking ignition values now. The fuel will be dealt with a professional tuner . Right now I just need to know what to do to get my car to start, idle nicely, (no bac valve), and be able to drive it comfortably or semi-comfortably for a good 45 minute drive to the dyno and get it tuned.

ziig

iTrader: (1)

all i can really say is that if your pully is up to 30 degrees, then you will have to find a sweet spot.....somewhere between the last couple marks..so you understand me....your pully is most likely in 5 degree increments right..so set up your timing with marks somewhere close to 20 on the pully...stab you CAS ....use the base map you have it should be close to stock timing values.....you can set up as stock to start I am sure ..........i am not too sure what your base map looks like on timing....
if this doesnt work i would look for vaccum leaks as well........or even go ont o check TPS values although I dont know if that would cause your problem....

as for RB pulllies thats odd, maybe they just stopped selling them due to problems with timing marks?

hope this helps

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

The values for ignition angle change between cars. You need to zero the timing that the key here. Zeroing meaning matching the ignition timing (when the spark fires) to the mechanical timing of the engine itself.

If your RB pulley matches the series of engine you're using (yes they do vary) and the CAS has been stabbed correctly (by the soudns of it I would check it since you shouldn't have to rotate it at all to start, even on a base map unless somethign else is way wonky) then simply:

Get the car running
Crank the idle stop screw in so it will stay running (they usually don't like the timing locked)
Set the value for the timing lock (make it whatever vaule you can easily see on your pulley..)
Lock the timing
Check with a timing gun (sorry, this should already be hooked up )
If the ECU is firing the spark at a different spot then what you have entered in the software, change the trigger value and check again. Ie. If you set the timing lock value to 15* and the timing light shows its firign at 20* on the pulley, the timing is not zero'd. They must match.

This should all be outlined on Hitman's site, as well as here in the haltech seciton

ziig

iTrader: (1)

classicauto summed it up a little clearer than I did...but yes........exactly as he said...all pullies vary..there is a write up on how to rescribe your pully to your crank..if you need to....
but i would restab cas with number 1 rotor on compression....try to start...if not try it again at a differnt spot

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

One more time I have an MR pulley not an RB.

I dont think I have an idle stop screw, since I eliminated the BAC valve ? If I do where is it ? Or can I try playing around with the throttle cable ?

Alright so if I understood correctly, to syncronize the timing I dont move the CAS at all, at all. I know I have to align the timing mark on the CAS gear and install it back in the motor. Next I align the pulley's timing mark and set a timing value in the haltech software. I used hitman rx7's setting. (Trigger angle 65, Tooth offset 11) Does this sound right to you guys ? If not, what would be a reasonable value to set it at ?

Also on the base map that I downloaded the Injection mode is in Multipoint and I noticed that on another base map I downloaded the Injection mode is Staged. Which would be the better choice ? Considering I'm running stock T2 CAS and coils.

And obviously I have to sync all 3 coils. But how ? I know I hook up the timing light to the spark plug wires but 1 wire at a time with all 4 sparking or 1 plug wired individualy ?

Also is there a difference in timing from Rotor 1 to Rotor 2 in either leading or trailing ?

ziig

iTrader: (1)

time from rotor one..or else you have to go a full 180 .....
also your steps should be line up pully mark 1st, then stab cas using DOT on shaft..take off cover to ensure it doesnt move..
use HITMANS values I think they look right
you need to go off leading number 1 plug wire..with all 4 wires hooked up and running
then trailing one plug with all four in and running..
your rpm will be different for leading and trailing though