wackaloo13

iTrader: (3)

Just got my kit in the mail today. It has taken them a bit longer than expected to get it out to me but o well. I test fit everything and checked out the hoses and stuff. A few things didnt fit but im sure we'll get everyhting sorted out/im a dumbass.
i have a few questions.
-How the hell am i supposed to put the nut holding the turbo manifold that is on the motorside front. i tried for quite a while to get it on but couldnt. I guess i should try doing it with everything outside of the car....i just dont particularly feel like yanking off my lim so i can make it fit.
-To remove the compressor housing do i just need to remove the 6 bolts on the back of it? Is this something i shouldn't be doing? I atleast need to rotate it so the outlet is where i need it to be.
-The oil return line fitting supplied in the kit does not bolt up to the oil return. I think i may just be retarded on this one, but it wont bolt up to the block nor will it bolt up to the little extension thiny.


-are my coolant lines run correctly? i have one run to the nipple on the top water pump and one to the bottom part of the pump. You cant see the bottom nipple in the picture, it was the origonal coolant line connected to the stock turbo. The top line is going to a nipple that was origonally capped when i bought the car.


Here are a few more random picture i have laying around


It is a s5 block that was half bridge ported by bdc. It was rebuilt with atkins 2piece seals.
http://bdc.cyberosity.com/v/Misc/LeeChusak/
Ill get some more picture up of my setup once i get some more free time.

wackaloo13

iTrader: (3)

O one more question, the block off plate provided is supposed to go here right?


ya.... it doesnt quite fit, ill talk to aspec tomorrow about that one. but again, maybe im just being retarded.

RoninRX7

hey what manifold is that? It looks to be a good quality one. Nice setup btw

forced inducted fd dude

haha nice, we have the same color sceme on our motors and bays

wackaloo13

iTrader: (3)

a-spec long runner

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

Oil feed line goes to front driver side corner of the block. There is a possibility you received the blue FD fitting and not the FC fitting. If it is too big for the block let me know I will send the correct one out immediately today. To "clock" the comp cover it is the six bolts on the rear you are correct. Removing that cover may give you the needed room to get that front bolt on, a lot depends on the wrenches you have at hand. The oil return line should bolt directly to the block remove the fitting/tube/flange thing off the block and see where your at I believe, if memory serves, on that setup the 45* end goes to the turbo and the straight to the block but I could be wrong. You will know for sure as it will only go on one way.


-S-

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

When did the 500r get the Garret To4z style antisurge compressor housing option? Thats the first one I've seen, looks nice.

Wackaloo13, love the engine paint choice. What color is that?

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

I've had trouble mounting that turbo---> manifold nut also during turbo installs.

I usually split the CHRA from the exhaust housing and bolt the housing to the mani. then bolt the rest of the turbo to the housing.

RoninRX7

how much did the manifold cost and where did you get it?

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

^Thats an A-spec Tuning manifold. It was probably part of the Wackaloo13's 500r turbo kit. I dunno if they sell them separately. PM Zero R maybe they will sell you one.

wackaloo13

iTrader: (3)

did anyone have issues contacting a-spec...... ive called them alot and i have had people from aspec say they woould call, but of course no calls....... anyone have the same customer service problems? hopefully we can get this resolved. I will post my a full review of my experience wit aspec once our business is finished

wackaloo13

iTrader: (3)

are there any tricks to getting the vband clamps on? i have the dp and turbine flanges really close but i cant get the ends of the vband clamp close eneough togetherto get the nut on so i can use a wrench to get it closed. im about 1/4" inch from being able to get the nut on but i cant get the clamp to close any further. Any help/tips are appreciated
thanks
lee

KeloidJonesJr.

iTrader: (8)

OOOH baby! I can't want to see this monster run! Keep us updated with vids.

wackaloo13

iTrader: (3)

A guy pm'd me asking for pictures of my IC setup so i figured i would resurect my build up thread.

The IC is a corksport ic with a 18*11*3core. i am running a k2rd radiator. The oil cooler is in the stock location. The bottom of the intercooler is mounted to the front cross bar using a metal bracket i made and hose clamps. Any way here are the pictures. I havent done the ducting yet.



I know my welds are ugly. I had a crash course in tig welding the day before. Once i get better ill go through and redo things. My car does not currently have a/c but i plan on putting it back in. That is why the compressor is clocked upwards.

Substance*D

^ yea the welds do look like condor ****, nothing a grinder wont fix. just take your time, try to weld 1/4 of the pipe at a time. And you have to have your puddle moving before you try to feed rod. Aluminum is a very tricky metal to weld, it has to be ******* sanitary, any impurities turn your weld to *****. cant wait see more.

wackaloo13

iTrader: (3)

finished up my exhaust up the other day. the rear can is alright but im not sure if i am going to keep my presilencer, ground clearance is an issue. its about 4" without me in the car and it is considerably less when im in it. I suppose new suspension woould help solve the problem, the stuff on the car is sagging.

The exhaust is 4" ss304. there are 2 7" roundx20" magnaflow mufflers in series. the center muffler is the one that is causing ground clearance issues. the muffler tip is a stainless 5" magnaflow tip. absolutely everything on the exhaust is stainless, including the hangers. rough cost was about 500$. Im not sure if i will have issues with the flex piping leaking but if i do ill just weld it up.





The shroud that covers teh drive shaft is what is in the way, can i just remove this and try to get a bit of extra clearance?

zbrown

how loud is it with those two mufflers? I just put the 14" one on my cummins, and damn near ordered the 26" one for my car, but neglected

I am guessing quiet for the most part? Is the WG plumbed in?

nice project, i love that compressor housing

88t2romad

Have you replaced that "T" in the fuel feed line? Summit sells some nice "Y" fittings.

rx7raca

i dont see why you would want that silencer...it doesnt make sense to put a fart can on with a silencer. Put straight pipes in with a quiet muffler. Not only will it be quieter but it will look alot better. Unless you dont care about noise get rid of the silencer, total waste of money.

Either way that turbo is beautiful. Any chance of telling us how much you paid for the kit an what it came with, or a link.

wackaloo13

iTrader: (3)

a new Y fitting is on my todo list. i had that T sitting around so i used it as mock up.

i had to order a vband flange for my tial wastegate but i am planning on plumbing it back in right infront of the silencer. i think i am going to keep the silencer and try repositioning it to get more ground clearance. I like the way it sounds. Way better than my old dual N1 setup. I think it is quieter than my dual n1 on the stock turbo and stock ports even though i am running a half bridge now...well minus the time the wastegate is open. I plan on testing it with a piece of strait 4" pipe in its place when i get the time.

Contact a-spec for the kit. it is a ss304 manifold and dp. the ceramic coating was extra. i also had 2 egt bungs and a bung for my wideband welded in as well.

BDC

Hey Lee, what EFI system is on this setup?

B

88t2romad

Im going to guess and say haltech(theres a big sticker on the radiator)

slo

iTrader: (1)

Nice work but I think your going to have major issues with overheating, especially if you try and run A/C.

I am in the process of ditching my FMIC for water injection.

wackaloo13

iTrader: (3)

b, right now it is an e6x, im going to switch to an e8 so that i can use the generic load v rpm output to power a cooling mist s-hsv for my meth injection.

my wideband crapped out on itself so its being sent back to zeitronix to be repaired so im kinda stuck until then.

i am trying to figure out where i am going to stick my meth tank, has anyone stuck it where the second muffler would be? seems like there is about eneough space in there for a 3 gallon tank or so. i might have to ge creative for the filler neck but im sure i can make it work.

another question, how much clearance is there betweeen the stock heat shields and the drive shaft on a tii, do i even need them, my piping is ss304 now so its much worse at conducting heat than steel

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I suppose you got your v band clamp to fit onto your downpipe? you had mentioned that problem in one of your posts from several months ago. I had the same problem, and it turned out that my V band flange on the back of the turbo just sat too close to the turbo manifold stud (HKS cast). I had another V band flange welded on to it to extend it in essence, and then shortened the downpipe accordingly.

My exhaust shop recommended that I keep those heatshields by the driveshaft. rotary exhaust gets so hot there is a risk of melting stuff down there.