Single Turbo RX-7's Questions about all aspects of single turbo setups.

My Lesson...417rwhp@19psi

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Old 10-13-07, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by PBK7
Boostn....Atkins seals the culprit? I thought these things were sent from GOD! Please correct or inform me, thanks.
Sorry, did not mean to blame the seals alone.
I know Atkins offered a regular seal and then a cryogenicly treated seal.
Their regular ones are weaker then oem ones and I personnaly would not run 19psi with them, unless they changed recently.
I have one example where one failed with no apparent obvious reason and when customer called Atkins for a replacement they were nice to send him 3 new ones at no charge.
As far as the cryo treated ones I have no info. Ernie has used them and mayne he will shed some light on them.

JD
Old 10-13-07, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Boostn7
Sorry, did not mean to blame the seals alone.
I know Atkins offered a regular seal and then a cryogenicly treated seal.
Their regular ones are weaker then oem ones and I personnaly would not run 19psi with them, unless they changed recently.
I have one example where one failed with no apparent obvious reason and when customer called Atkins for a replacement they were nice to send him 3 new ones at no charge.
As far as the cryo treated ones I have no info. Ernie has used them and mayne he will shed some light on them.

JD

not sure if they have changed but I am running up 26psi so far on them.
Old 10-13-07, 11:11 PM
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On the cryro'ed atkins seals i ran 38psi on my street port. On my bridgeport I ran 32psi on the regular atkins seals and still running strong.
Old 10-13-07, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by BDC
The first weak-link is the fuel. It almost always is, without exception, on these street-driven cars that aim for and exceed 400hp when sticking to using pump gas. I was thinking about this on the way home today, actually. The problem is the compromise of the charge temperature that shoots up into the stratosphere during the compression stroke. Pump fuels are notoriously volatile and unstable and what happens is that fuel, during compression and prior to spark, essentially explodes on its own due to the heat created. The replies given here regarding intercooling and intake air temperatures (IAT's) will have an effect, but not a substantial enough one to counteract or workaround the problem with the fuel itself. In plain English, it's just not designed for the highly-modified RE environment that we regularly subject it to.

B
there is no HP limits on pump fuels, it has more to do with boost levels than power levels. a tiny stock turbo could as easily blow up a motor at 19 PSI and only turning 280 to the wheels, a massive turbo could put down 500 to the wheels on pump.
Old 10-14-07, 05:00 AM
  #55  
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more then boost its more an issue of flow....As Karack ^ stated.....i blew my engine on a ported non sequential engine.....at 21psi.... ran my to4r to 21PSI WOT and no problems.... so flow is very very essential in boost and detonation issues.

ps. same fuel and ignition map.....no mods in split... just the turbo. Fuel system as is.1680/1000
Old 10-16-07, 02:41 PM
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well, 18 PSI is as high as i would ever tell anyone to push on pump fuel without knock suppression. and that is damn near pushing the limits of pump fuel even with a nice flowing IC with low intake charge temps.
Old 10-16-07, 08:54 PM
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PBK7 what was your injector duty cycle at? Or generally what area were you in?
Old 10-17-07, 12:03 PM
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generally < 65%.
Ordering atkins seals today!

Still lookin for a good stock mount/vmmount IC .
Old 10-17-07, 12:09 PM
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This may sound like adumb question and it may have been covered already but are you runnng a 3 bar map sensor?
Old 10-17-07, 12:34 PM
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negative, stock map sensor!
Old 10-17-07, 12:47 PM
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Between the stock map sensor and the stock ignition you didn't have a prayer.
13 psi was my limit on the stock ignition.
17 psi is the limit on the stock map sensor.

Your plan for the HKS Twin Power is sound. Add the 3 bar sensor.
Spraying AI of some sort might eliminate the need for both the extra fuel and the V-mount.
Barry
Old 10-17-07, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by PBK7
negative, stock map sensor!
That right there sir, is one of your problems if not the biggest, As stated the stock map sensor can(should) only be used up to about 17 psi. And thatis already pushing it. Any more than that and you are asking for serious trouble.


Good luck with your next motor
Old 10-17-07, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ErnieT
On the cryro'ed atkins seals i ran 38psi on my street port. On my bridgeport I ran 32psi on the regular atkins seals and still running strong.
You ran cryo'ed Atkin seals when you broke the 700rwh with the SP.
You then later switched to black seals (from Kenny) and now you're running Atkin regular seals, whatever happen to the black seals ?

JD
Old 10-17-07, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by PBK7
negative, stock map sensor!
Oh damn! that's gonna be a problem.
Stock map sensor reaches its max voltage @ 17-17.5psi (like someone else mentioned) therefore any higher boost you will be lean and too much ignition advance..........recipe for failure no matter what seals you run.

JD
Old 10-17-07, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Boostn7
You ran cryo'ed Atkin seals when you broke the 700rwh with the SP.
You then later switched to black seals (from Kenny) and now you're running Atkin regular seals, whatever happen to the black seals ?

JD
Let me explain how it all went down to date. My first motor didn't have the 2 piece shaft in it when i made 643rwhp on a sp. When I got the E-shaft, Ray put in the black seals. I made 713rwhp, but warped the apex seals on the dyno. After that we have used nothing but regular old apex seals from Atkins, even in the bridgeported motor. So Im not a fan of the black seals. Ray and I have changed a few things to prevent warping so in the end it probably doesn't matter what seals you have if your setup is money. I've had my bridgeport since July 4th and she's still running strong after MANY dyno pulls and about 15 or so passes down the track. Now Ray is throwing a 50shot on it for the last race just for kicks. So if it blows to high heaven I've got all winter, lol..
Old 10-17-07, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ErnieT
Let me explain how it all went down to date. My first motor didn't have the 2 piece shaft in it when i made 643rwhp on a sp. When I got the E-shaft, Ray put in the black seals. I made 713rwhp, but warped the apex seals on the dyno. After that we have used nothing but regular old apex seals from Atkins, even in the bridgeported motor. So Im not a fan of the black seals. Ray and I have changed a few things to prevent warping so in the end it probably doesn't matter what seals you have if your setup is money. I've had my bridgeport since July 4th and she's still running strong after MANY dyno pulls and about 15 or so passes down the track. Now Ray is throwing a 50shot on it for the last race just for kicks. So if it blows to high heaven I've got all winter, lol..
Finally we know............... I've always wanted to ask but didn't want to be the only one

So, did you have your current atkins cryo'd ?
Old 10-17-07, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Viking War Hammer
Finally we know............... I've always wanted to ask but didn't want to be the only one

So, did you have your current atkins cryo'd ?
Nope! Just plain old ordinary steel atkins seals.
Old 10-17-07, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ErnieT
Nope! Just plain old ordinary steel atkins seals.
Hmm, I got an extra set of Hurley seals from 2001 that your boy Dave gave me. I was thinking about running those. Those aren't supposed to break.
Old 10-17-07, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Viking War Hammer
Hmm, I got an extra set of Hurley seals from 2001 that your boy Dave gave me. I was thinking about running those. Those aren't supposed to break.
Rich knows more about those, but supposedly they are VERY soft and were deemed "defective". I may be wrong, its been along time and I would rather forget that time period, lol..
Old 10-17-07, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ErnieT
Rich knows more about those, but supposedly they are VERY soft and were deemed "defective". I may be wrong, its been along time and I would rather forget that time period, lol..
I was kidding, I went through 4 motors from Dave with those seals.
Old 10-17-07, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Viking War Hammer
Hmm, I got an extra set of Hurley seals from 2001 that your boy Dave gave me. I was thinking about running those. Those aren't supposed to break.
Old 10-17-07, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Viking War Hammer
I was kidding, I went through 4 motors from Dave with those seals.
In the end Im sure the seals were probably fine, lol..
Old 10-17-07, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by PBK7
generally < 65%.
Ordering atkins seals today!

Still lookin for a good stock mount/vmmount IC .
How on earth did you make 417 whp only hitting 65%? That doesn't make any sense to me... Oh and please do order the apexi 3bar.
Old 10-18-07, 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ErnieT
Let me explain how it all went down to date. My first motor didn't have the 2 piece shaft in it when i made 643rwhp on a sp. When I got the E-shaft, Ray put in the black seals. I made 713rwhp, but warped the apex seals on the dyno. After that we have used nothing but regular old apex seals from Atkins, even in the bridgeported motor. So Im not a fan of the black seals. Ray and I have changed a few things to prevent warping so in the end it probably doesn't matter what seals you have if your setup is money. I've had my bridgeport since July 4th and she's still running strong after MANY dyno pulls and about 15 or so passes down the track. Now Ray is throwing a 50shot on it for the last race just for kicks. So if it blows to high heaven I've got all winter, lol..
Damn, going by all your responses I though you had warped the Atkin cryo'ed seals and had been running the "black seals" all this time......till your last response on July 27.
I've had a set of black seals to try out, since no one knows how they would behave in a daily driven motor.....I may just leave the OEM seals alone.

3-17-07
Originally Posted by ErnieT
And yes just to see if it makes a difference, the next motor will be a bp. BTW...using cryo'ed atkins seals.
4-16-07
Originally Posted by ErnieT
I used their (Atkins) cryo'ed apex seals. They worked well, but they warped under high heat/boost situations so I switched. BUT they didn't break. (Most of you won't be running the boost I do though.)
5-01-07
Originally Posted by ErnieT
I use the same ones(black seals). Knock on wood, they're holding up fine. One day I may actually run the car down the track.
5-02-07
Originally Posted by ErnieT
They (Atkins cryo'ed seals) warped so we switched. Now all is well!
6-04-07
Originally Posted by ErnieT
How long do you need to base your opinion. Pro Drag Racers have been using them (black seals) for years at very high boost applications. Im using them as well.
7-27-07......Originally Posted by fdracer
ernie,
if you don't mind telling us, i'm wondering this as well. i assume you're using the ra super seals, if so how do like them so far?
Originally Posted by ErnieT
Don't know what they are! I bought them from a guy who makes more power than me and loves the funny stuff! lol...Ari Yallon.
JD

Last edited by Boostn7; 10-18-07 at 12:31 AM.
Old 10-18-07, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by mono4lamar
How on earth did you make 417 whp only hitting 65%? That doesn't make any sense to me... Oh and please do order the apexi 3bar.

hmmm may sound stupid, but is the apexi 3 bar the same one that comes with the Apexi AVCR kit? the round black plastic sensor with the brass nipple at the bottom????....

I mean do you wire that up to give you the voltage needed for the ecu????? it looks so puny compared to the GM 3 bar...

sorry for hijacking.... but its on the same lines.

I have used the RA seals for a while and the Atkins apex seal springs....

no issues yet ... will dyno a GT45 6 port next friday... will try to get some prints....


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