write please,what diameter and brand of tube for manifold are used?

well i bought the divided manifold from cx racing. the same one they got on rotary works.com. i had to do some custom modifications but nothing serious. just port match the t4 flange with the turbo one. and resurface all sides. i got the s400sx aka (s374) with a .90 back housing. spool is very decent with the non ported motor.

54x2mm
316L stainless

I read that quality of pipes very much differs at different manufacturers.What manufacturer of a pipe are used by you?

54 is it internal or external diameter?

outer diameter is 54mm and inner diameter is 50mm :)

Keep up the great work, your car is awesome! The videos make me feel like I am driving xD

thanks man...

i've got alot of unedited fotage from the last 2 years of building and driving.. eventually there will be a little longer clip out next year :)

doing some work on the car but not much to show atm..

loving the car and build dude. the only thing that gets me is evaryone talking about the rotors touching lol not a common issue. you have turbor1 making 700 off a stock junk yard block. id be thinking of the tension bolts not being torqued properly or not torqued enough or some bearing play possably there are plenty of cars making 500hp that dont have rotors touching soo the next question is what the culprit is?

I can not find the suitable size in the country. Сan you help with purchase?:bowdown:

Sounds like you may have an oil system/clearance problem. When you spin bearings the e-shaft will move causing the rotors to touch the irons/housings.

hey gus i must say that ur build is sick. keep up the good work. cant wait to see whats next:nod:

ah i that never crossed my mind but is a good option

Where did you get your tig welder from gus? I am in the market for a tig welder so I can fabricate parts up like you did. Not looking to spend over 1500 though

actually i believe the opposite is true. the force from the rotor tapping the housing from e-shaft deflection caused such a force on the bearing that it grabbed the shaft and spun with it after contact.

wow.. such a nice car you got there

If you're running high rpm & high boost you should really have it clearanced and balanced. pretty cheap and helps a ton!

updates in this thread has been slow for a while, there has been some progress on the car including a new oil cooler setup, new front etc. The car will also be featured in a street/strip magazine here in sweden, will be released soon!

here is a little pic. black intercooler and oil coolers

http://transport.molnsatra.se/bil/2011/bild.JPG

a suggestion i would also make is to try and avoid the RPM limiter completely, set up the later maps with retarded ignition timing and rich fueling maps so that the engine basically loads down before hitting a RPM limiter or set the limiter to a higher value such as 9.5-10k with the aforementioned method of cutting power. in conjunction with that said, a RPM triggered solenoid to dump boost is also a good way of limiting power more safely, all of those combined should net you a much more safe way of hitting the wall if you overshoot.

best of luck with your progress.

i finally have something to show you guys, been a busy day at the dyno! to bad we ran out of injectors... would have loved to see that 9000rpm pull!

http://transport.molnsatra.se/bil/100.JPG
http://transport.molnsatra.se/bil/200.JPG

I agree with this 100%.. I've been playing around with different methods myself and this is the way to go.. Hitting a hard limit with the rotary is not a good thing..

That doesn't look like a S475 to me :)

Its a bullseye race cover :)

Ahh. Did at make as much of a difference as they claim?