cripsR6

I am running a dual wastegate (tial)setup on a stainless manifold. It seems that no matter what I do, one of them starts to leak. I have tried every possible combo of Permaseal ultra grey, Copper Rtv, with and without the gasket, and went as far as putting locktite and little lock washers on the bolts that hold the wastegate to the manifold. Almost all have held up for at least a few hours. The leaks all occur where the gasket is thinnest where there is the least flange material. In other words, if one was to look at the flange with the bolts at 3 and 9 o'clock the carbon deposits are found at 12 or 6 o'clock. There is a bit of vibration from the motor(no engine torque brace) and one of the dump tubes is partially against the edge of the crossmember possibly causing vibration. I will be getting tuned(finally!) next saturday, but I need to resolve this issue first. Any ideas, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

fdracer

those sealers won't do anything they can't stand up to the heat. you're either not torquing the bolts down to the proper spec, or your wg flange isn't perfectly flat.

ErnieT

iTrader: (2)

When you say leaking, do you mean your wastegate is bleeding off boost too early or the wastegate is actually leaking from being bolted on? If its the first, try and bigger spring. If its the second, try lock washers and a new gasket. Some have gaskets.

Auto Illusions

send me the waste gate flange dimensions and i will get you a soft copper gasket made that will seal!

cripsR6

I tightened the bolts as much as humanly possible. I would not be suprised if the flanges are not perfectly flat even though they were ground flat by the shop I bought them from-allegedly. When I say leaking, I am referring to an exhaust leak. The most recent combo I tried included lock washers, but with the old gasket which is a little dilapitated. At this point the only other thing that came to my mind was to remove the manifold, and tig weld the flanges together my damn self. Thanks for the replies fellas. Anyone else care to chime in>?

dag

Track down some high temp multilayer gaskets for those badboys. Probably your best bet.

rotorbrain

try safety wiring them. . . thats what i did with my turbo/exhaust manifold bolts and to my ETB/UIM mount bolts. safety wiring works like a charm. . . but only if the bolts are backing out. if its the flange surface, your SOL. . . id go with the copper gasket that was offered at that point.

also, dont use lock washers if they arent good quality in that kind of a "high heat" area. its not a "nono" or anything. . . i have just found that they always fail. they end up flattening out and causing leaks. thats why i opted to safety wire them and use regular flat washers and super high grade allen bolts.

paul

MARTIN

you should try stacking either 2 of the paper thin metal gaskets or get the multi layer ones, like the stock exhaust manifold->block.

cripsR6

What does safety wiring entail? I have never heard of it.

UPDATE: Just removed both wastegates from the manifold. Before doing so I had someone start the car while I felt around for leaks before things got too hot. The leakier of the two is the wastegate that's dumptube is partially resting on the edge of the crossmember. The other wastegate is leaking ever so slightly from the 6 o'clock (or 12o'clock depending on how you look at it) position as talked about in one of my previous posts. While I did have to use the allen key to initially back out the bolts, they were considerably looser than when I last regasketed and tightened the **** out of them. Again, the upper wastegate was the looser of the two. It began to rain shortly after I removed both wastegates so I did not get a chance to check the flanges on the manifold for warpage. Unfortunately I will be going down the shore for the weekend (sans FD of course) and will not be back to work on the car until Monday. If anyone would care to enlighten me, it would be kindly appreciated. Thanks

FD Rey

Maybe the wastegate is rubbing on the crossmember causing it to vibrate/wiggle off therefor causing it to leak over time. It also sounds that the flange may not be completely flat. If you took some pics it would deff help.

BTW, I had an exhaust leak coming from the wastegate for about a year. I still got it tuned that way. I didn't get any spikes or boost creep, it just felt a lil laggier. I had a leak right around where yours is. It was coming off the flange into the wastegate. I hadn't tightened all the way so it leaked and over time it completely burnt the gasket completely.

RETed

I would try and get a machine shop to at least mic them to see how warped they are.
If they are warped, then you have some obvious options.
If they are not warped, then at least one path is eliminated.


-Ted

GUITARJUNKIE28

just weld the wastegates on

cripsR6

I got two gaskets off of a friend yesterday, and cut down the dumptube on one of the wastegates while I was at his shop. Unfortunately, it rained like crazy yesterday & again today while I was reinstalling. I also put some real lock washers on there as well. I took another pic of the proximity between the dumptube and the crossmember, but I must not have saved it on my phone. I do however have a comparison shot that is too large of a file! Hopefully this link will work
http://64.4.51.250/cgi-bin/getmsg/07...=EN&country=US

Auto Illusions

I had a pair of .060 copper wastegate gaskets made for cripsr6 as i thought he was interested. If anyone needs a set for the same style waste gate, let me know so i am not stuck with them!

cripsR6

Check your pm's.
The end result was that I had to cut some more material off of the dumptube to keep it totally clear of the crossmember. So far everything is fine (knock on wood). Thanks for everyone's help/ ideas.

TechTrix

iTrader: (2)

if its still no good then your flanges on the manifold are probobly too thin