I was wondering where you all got your aftermarket intercooler pipe from? I ordered one of those ebay kits and it was total garbage. I am thinking of running 2.75" from the turbo to the intercooler and then 3" to the TB. Any help would be appreciated. thanks

 

I got mine from ebay and it was nice quality. Unfortuneatly I sold the extra and I have to redo the pipes all over again because the jackhole fabricator (behind M'Trix) didn't know what he was doing and welded the bov at the wrong angle and left huge gaps under the couplers. For $1300, I should have had perfect work!

Anyhow, I don't remember the vendors name but his pipes were thicker then the rest. The other ones were too thin, which is probably what you got. My kit also came with more bends then the rest.

 

www.atpturbo.com has lots of great stuff, including intercooler piping. I don't see the point in running different diameters, I'm running 2.75 both hot and cold side and I doubt it's a restriction. My greddy elbow is 2.75, so it made it a no-brainer.

 

i get some of my bends from http://www.vrsexhaust.com/BENDS/bends.html but they have lots scratches and marks but they are cheaper, there is a bunch of places to buy u-bends ill post a list in a few.


here is a picture of a u-bend from vrsexhaust.com

 

What do you mean by "total garbage"?
What were you expecting?


-Ted

 

Woolf Aircraft is the best bang for the buck IMO.

 

vrsexhaust.com
burnsstainless.com
mazzurisuper.com
vibrantperformance.com
vertexnow.com
magnumforceracing.com
^
those are the ones i can remember.

goodfella - you can also port the greddy elbow to match 3"

pic of my elbow cut and ported to 3"

 

Bursstainless is about $75/bend (ouch). I got my whole set for $150. Sorry, I don't remember the thickness but it was better then the other venders and it was completely polished. It was an excellent deal for eight peices of which six were mandrel bent. The japanese are amazing at cutting and welding pei slices to make the bends they want but i've never seen that done in the us and the only place with clean welds i've seen is a-spec.

I'm not shure what the benefit of a larger diameter coldside piping would be. I would think since heat expands, the hot side would benefit from larger piping, no? Attain makes a 100mm (4"?) diameter elbow.

 

^
thats good, with aluminum you don't want to go thinner than 16 gauge or you will collapse the pipes when tightening down clamps.

funny that you mentioned the pie cuts because i just cut a hole bunch yesterday for my new v-mount im building i also made some for my y-pipe a while ago, i know that someone is going to say that they would never use pie cuts but i do so ....

my y-pipe

 

http://store.racing-solutions.org/bendkits.html
Best prices on the planet. and prompt extreamly fast shipping. I had a tracking number 30 minutes after I paid.

Question. I still run a stock s5 turbo 2" outlet and my intercooler has 2.25 inlets, but the connection on the carb hat is 2" should I run 2" pipe or 2.25"? Cause I've allready got this box of 2" sitting here I'd hate to admit I wasted my money on. I'd like to think the 2" would be better cause it will have less boost drop and more velocity through the pipes. Am I crazy?

 

I purchased my piping off ebay, just 90's with about 16" of straight on each. Nice thick walled polished aluminum. I searched this morning and couldn't find the specific vendor. Regardless of what you get, there is going to be cutting, welding and bead rolling. If you buy piping with couplers from Ebay, just pitch the couplers in the garbage, they are worthless.

Pipe can only be bent so much, there are times when segmenting is the only way to go, you just can't bend 3" pipe on a 2" radius. I refuse to use 90 degree silicone elbows. I also try to use as few couplers as possible, to eliminate weak spots.

 

Chris, why don't you like the silicone 90s? As you can see in my sig, I'm running them, and although I havent driven the car much with the new setup, they're Samco hoses and seem very thick and resilient. I also made sure to cut the piping longer than needed, so they really extend deep into the couplers. I take it you've had some bad experiences with them?

 

I need somthing i can weld together. The kit i got from ebay came with pipes that were paper thin.

 

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/mandrelbends.htm

i love that place. they are really nice people and have good prices.

 

im going to have the 2nd that. 9 deg couples should only be used when absolutely necessary, and in 99.99 percent of cases they are not. they blow off easier then any other kind of coupler and because of the super tight bend restrict the flow much much more then a 90 deg bend in metal.

 

Goodfella, where did you get those samco hoses used in your setup?

 

If you segment the pipe you still are making an extreme direction change and you also have the segments of the pipe causing even more restriction. I used a 90 coupler off my y pipe for a while (15psi) and never had any issues with it poping off. People should be using t-bolts anyway and it should eliminate that issue. I can see them being a weaker joint but with the 4 ply stuff it shouldn't be an issue. I actually bought a 2.5 to 2.75 90 deg Samco off of Goodfella I believe, plan on using it on my T04S. I kind of like have that 90 being flexible considering how much movement the engine does in relationship to the body. One other option is the cast elbows that ATP turbo sells. I also have a 2.5" one of those. Nice tight radius but I could never find one in a 2.75 " diameter and you have to cut the lip off if you really want a tight 90. I also don't want an elbow welded to my compressor housing or have to use multiple adapters/couplers between the elbow/compressor/ic pipe.

 

yeah use 90 deg metal bends instead and cut them very short, any way im not advocating segmenting pipes, actually when you look at it if you were to cut a 45 deg in a pipe then rotate it and weld it at 90 deg it would probably have about the exact same restrictions as a 90 deg coupler, which is why i dont think 90's are ever necessary with the correct application of mandrel bends. and as far as the engine moving there is more then enough play in the straight couplers to account for that. but hey if it works for you go for it. they are much easier to work with and require less welding and less precision.

 

Air does not like to travel around corners. Silicone 90's swell when boost is supplied. Add heat to the equation and they will pop off, distort and blow out over time, even the 4-ply, additionally they are frightfully expensive. You can make an entire single piece aluminum pipe for the cost of one of them.

Here is a pipe we made for a 500R with a Blitz FMIC. As you can see it was segmented with shorter sections of bent pieces, making a greater than 90 bend with no restriction. It is a much cleaner look, with much less opportunity for failures. Every silicone connection is an opportunity for another failure. Wait until you turn the boost up to where that turbo is really blowing some air.

Edit: Even my 4-ply straight couplers swell in the center, with the 35R at 21psi. I replace them every couple of years, before they can fail completely.

 

Question.