Someone please make me feel stupid real soon. I have this TO4E turbo and a partial downpipe. I have never seen this kind of connection before. I just glanced at it when I picked it up and thought it was a regular v-band, but it isn't. If I need to explain more about the connection than the pictures can, please ask.

 

Hmmm.

I've seen those typoes of housings on XS power turbo's before, and the odd one here and there on random "mutt" turbos. Never saw an actual connector like what you have in your down pipe though. It may be able to work, but I'm not sure how it will seal.

Best bet is to have a ferrel welded in for a 3" V-band and do it that way.

 

Most older turbo's come this way. Its a slip joint and they seal well, if used correctly. There mostly used on large truck or marine applications were the down pipe is bolted solidly to something so theres no movement to pull it out. It's not suitable for an auto application were generally the exhaust is soft mounted. In other words, your going to have to get yourself a V-band kit and have it welded on.

 

I hate to be a buzzkil but... you will really have to find someone who know what the hell there doing to weld you a v band flange to a cast iron housing. the housing needs to be preheated, and thats about all I know... I tried (years ago) to do that same thing and paid a professional marine/naval welder to do it. it cracked 4 months later... and i had never started the car...

Also i have never seen a turbo like that make any good power (responsive, power band ect)... unless it was on the cat desel tractor it came off of. youll be happier in the long run if you buy a used gt**r of someone.

 

Thanks for the responses. Whether the turbo has diesel roots or not, it was a nice deal. No shaft play, .60 in, .84 out. The deal was sweetened with an HKS manifold, 2 fresh 1000cc injectors, a modified LIM, oil drain line, and the partial downpipe all for much less than my $700 car cost The idea of welding a different flange on to cast didn't seem like the ideal route to take here (or anywhere really). I think I may just have to put off getting my car running a little longer and buy a new turbo now. I have no desire to dick around with installing this bad boy, unless somebody around here has a TO4E hotside with a normal exhaust outlet laying around.....

 

Lots of places weld ferrels into the downpipe, its no monumental task.

My GT3574 from aspec has one welded in, I MIG welded one in a T04-R I ran a few years ago, and I had a used turbo a few years before that with a welded ferrel. I've never had one break or fall off - ever. I've seen alot of v-band's crack on local cars due to the exhaust beign built in such a way that there's excessive pressure (from the exhaust hanging off the turbo) but properly built you shouldn't have issues.

Heck, the A-spec ferrel is welded in with only 4 2" beads. I drove that turbo across the continent earlier this year.....

 

as suggested before , best bet , get a v-band kit weld on housing ,and be done with it

 

https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/turbo-do-i-have-767513/

See that turbo? Notice the bracket that wraps around the turbine. Thats What holds the DP inplace. I'd still get a V-Band kit and run a flex section in the DP a few feet down.

~Mike..............

 

Thank you. I was having a hard time envisioning how a bracket to install this "as is" would look. Fugly as shizz, apparently. I finally was directed to the adapter to properly convert this to v-band. It will weld directly to T04 turbine housing with cast in groove, converting the discharge to standard 3" v-band.

Is a flex section necessary? I am using my motoria exhaust from the y-pipe back. I planned to go forward from there into a presilencer, then a v-band connection to the downpipe, and another to the turbo. Will the lack of an exhaust hanger between the y-pipe and turbo likely cause the v-band on the turbine housing to leak? There's not much room for a flex section until under the car, due to the wastegate/dump tube and the vert subframe. I would almost rather make one more exhaust hanger, if that would be equally effective. Is a flex section ok with the heat of rotary exhaust??

Oh yeah, here is the adapter

 

I had the v-band adapter thingie welded on to my brand new Garrett T04S (took it to a shop that had some special brazing rod, I dunno much about welding though) and it's been fine for the past 2000 miles I've run it.

 

I weld flanges to turbine housings all day long. Not a big deal with the right rod. They tend to last just fine.

~S~

 

As for welding the V-band to the turbine housing. Make sure the welder preheats both the V-band flange and the turbine (could use a coventional oven). Make sure he/she uses Nickle rod and TIG welds it. Last, make sure it cools slowly. It can be placed in / covered with sand to let it cool slower, but usually just letting it set and cool on its on is ok.

For the flex section. Its not 100% needed, but I always recommend it. A lot of manifold, DP, and V-band cracks are the result of rigid exhaust systems. Think of your exhaust as one HUGE breaker bar. It goes from your engine to your exhaust tip!! And you want to keep it rigid?? There should be a flex section in the rear of the DP before the presilencer. There should always be one in the dump tube after the WG if its plumbed back into the DP, otherwise you'll get cracks eventually. Use as many stock hanger locations as possible. All this isn't neccessary, but if you want an exhaust or manifold, DP, etc to last, I'd follow the guidlines closely.

~Mike..............